73 six twenty Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 I am selling my 1973 Datsun 620 Pick up. It has a 4cyl 1600 with a 2bbl Weber carburetor. It has an electronic distributor, new clutch set,new water pump/fan clutch,new clutch master cylinder, new slave cylinder. Someone installed disc brakes on the truck before I bought it. The truck runs good and drives,but if you drive faster than 45 mph the bump steer gets bad. I am asking $1,200.00 the registration is good until Oct 2010. May consider a trade for a 510 or a 720. Call me at (916) 220-8620 I live in Sacramento Ca. I don't have a computer, but I can send pictures from my phone. Please call or text. Link to comment
73 six twenty Posted December 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Well I have gotten a lot of very interesting calls and inquiries about my truck. It has left me wondering??? Are 620 pick ups that are smog exempt,running and registered really undervalued? Or is it just me??? Link to comment
RoadRace Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 but if you drive faster than 45 mph the bump steer gets bad. are you sure its bump steer you're taking about? bump steer is the change in toe as measured though the camber-change curve. not something people can normally notice on the highway. Link to comment
73 six twenty Posted December 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 I spoke with an alignment guy. I told him the camber is noticeably off. One of the front wheels is angled in at the top. I told him when I drive the truck will go straight, if I apply the brakes it continues straight. So I know it's not brake related. When I increase drivng speed to above 40mph and hit a bump in the road the front end bounces and while driving the truck will shift positions in the lane. The alignment guy told me it was called bump steer. Maybe he was wrong? Anyone have any ideas? Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 The torsion bars are likely just sagging a bit, more on one side. These can be adjusted and will lift the truck to it's proper ride height. This will likely remove most of the excess camber. A badly worn king pin on that side could also cause it to lean in and add to the camber. Link to comment
mike Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 How was the brake swap done? Was all the front end parts from a newer (78-79) 620 put on your 73? Link to comment
73 six twenty Posted December 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Before I got the truck someone put disc brakes on it. I believe it now has ball joints on the front. The rotors are solid. The control arms that are on it do not rest correctly on the bump stops. They appear to be too short,and are pulling both wheels inward at the top. I've read some of the forums,but I don't know exactly what steps I need to take to correct the problem. I really would like to fix it and be able to drive and enjoy the truck. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 I don't know if the later disc brakes suspension will 'bolt on' but the lower control arms are longer and if you could get them on a pre-'77 truck would push the wheel out at the bottom. Link to comment
butcherboyjc Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Im sure you need to use beebani's custom upper control arms. Before I purchased the upper control arms I also tried to use the stock control arms from a 79 both upper and lower but the uppers are too short and cause negative camber. Link to comment
73 six twenty Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 So if I get a set of beebani's custom control arms, can I continue to use the existing brake stuff on the truck now? Maybe if it's okay with you I can check out your truck set up? Link to comment
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