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Suspension setups


freaky510

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I see this on the realm and thought it would be a good topic for Ratsun.

If you could take a minute to fill us all in on what you got.

 

Year:72

Make:510 4dr

What you got:280zx front aftermarket coil overs(too be installed) Moog plates Calvin's bump-steer spacers building a rear adj crossmember

lowered 2":mad: looking to go more :lol:

 

If we could make this a sticky that would be cool.I just think this would be a good topic for the newcomer and might stop some of the repeating questions.Also it would be cool if someone has something different that we haven't tried yet

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Year: 1972

Make: 510 Wagon

Front: 280zx struts, Ground Control camber plates, Ground control coilovers. 8", 300# springs

Rear: Springs de-arched/stiffened with 2.5" lowering blocks

Wheels/Tires: 15x7 -12 with 205/50/15's all around. Stock front fenders needed heavy roll/pull to work (currently using flared fiberglass front), rear needed heavy rolling/pulling to clear tires.

 

Plans: I have MR2 Illumina's that will be installed this week to help improve suspension travel up front to eliminate bottoming out

Comments: Driveshaft tunnel needed to be clearanced in rear for axle snout wrapping against floor. Ride is fairly rough with 300# springs. A more daily-able setup would be 200# or 250# to be more aggressive, however, the de-arched/stiffened rear springs compliment 300# springs up front very well, and it feels balanced. Lowering blocks kill the ride in back, but are necessary for the height I'm at right now. They will be replaced with a more aggressive lowering spring, though.

 

Stance:

IMG_1502.jpg

IMG_1353.jpg

Edited by WagDatto
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1971 4 door

front

280zx struts shortened 40mm 4 way adjustable agx (rear of sw20mr2) 225pond springs ground control coilovers (if i remember right they are 7inch springs) bmw bump stops cut in half ebay bump steer spacers .

 

rear

cut stock springs i removed 23/4 coils and used 68 camero shocks in the rear actually handles nice. i need new shocks and struts though.

CIMG1144.jpg

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72 2dr 510

 

1" front bar

3/4" rear bar

325lb front springs

1200lb rear springs

3.75" ground clearance front, 5" rear

Koni front inserts, OEM struts/brakes (i know, i know...)

Nismo comp rear shocks

re-drilled crossmember to correct rear camber/toe

moog front plates, adj.

R180 welded, 4.38 and 5.12:1

20.5 x 9.5 Goodyear slicks, R430 or R250

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  • 3 weeks later...

1971 Datsun 510 2 dr Racecar (hillclimb)

 

Front:

Shortened 510 struts w/fixed seats

200# 2.5" ID coilover springs

Carrera strut inserts (NLA)

Custom caster & camber offseting top plates w/monoball mount

Addco 1" bar w/aluminum pillar blocks

Monoball inner control arm bushings

OE 3/8" longer crash repair lower control arms (NLA)

Relocated inner P/U points

Shortened TC rods w/Delrin-aluminum cup bushings

 

Rear:

Nissan Comp roadrace springs

7/8" custom swaybar, uses Suspension Techniques mounting hardware.

KYB Rally shocks (NLA)

 

Everything else in the rear is stock because I started focussing my efforts on building a tube frame 510 racecar.

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REVISED

 

Year: 1972

Make: 510 Wagon

Front: 280zx struts shortened 1.5" with MR2 Tokico Illumina inserts, Ground Control camber plates, Ground control coilovers. 8", 300# springs

Rear: Springs de-arched/stiffened with 2.5" lowering blocks and an extra "overload" leaf installed

Wheels/Tires: 15x7 -12 with 205/50/15's all around. Stock front fenders needed heavy roll/pull to work (currently using flared fiberglass front), rear needed heavy rolling/pulling to clear tires.

 

Comments: With the shorter inserts, better shocks and new leaf in the rear springs, the car feels completely different. The shocks smoothed out the ride quality by a lot, and I also don't bottom out my struts anymore. The rear feels better now, too. It feels firmer, but also reduced axle wrap, so it feels more stable on accelleration and in cornering. I think that if/when I install better/shorter shocks in rear and a panhard bar, it will feel perfect, though I'd love to delete the lowering blocks alltogether.

 

Very happy with the decision to shorten the front struts!

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REVISED

 

Year: 1972

Make: 510 Wagon

Front: 280zx struts shortened 1.5" with MR2 Tokico Illumina inserts, Ground Control camber plates, Ground control coilovers. 8", 300# springs

Rear: Springs de-arched/stiffened with 2.5" lowering blocks and an extra "overload" leaf installed

Wheels/Tires: 15x7 -12 with 205/50/15's all around. Stock front fenders needed heavy roll/pull to work (currently using flared fiberglass front), rear needed heavy rolling/pulling to clear tires.

 

Comments: With the shorter inserts, better shocks and new leaf in the rear springs, the car feels completely different. The shocks smoothed out the ride quality by a lot, and I also don't bottom out my struts anymore. The rear feels better now, too. It feels firmer, but also reduced axle wrap, so it feels more stable on accelleration and in cornering. I think that if/when I install better/shorter shocks in rear and a panhard bar, it will feel perfect, though I'd love to delete the lowering blocks alltogether.

 

Very happy with the decision to shorten the front struts!

 

Congrats to you for gettin those shocks in the front. seems like you really like the setup.

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  • 1 month later...

1969 datsun 510 2 door

 

front megan 240sx coilovers welded onto 1987 200sx v6 struts 5 lug hubs and brakes, adjustable lower control arms, will have adjustable tc rods soon, rear is not done but am going z31 5 lug hubs, custome rear control arms tubular, megan coilovers from 240sx oversized front and rear sway bars

 

struts1.jpg

struts3.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

REVISED

 

Year: 1972

Make: 510 Wagon

Front: 280zx struts shortened 1.5" with MR2 Tokico Illumina inserts, Ground Control camber plates, Ground control coilovers. 8", 300# springs

Rear: Springs de-arched/stiffened with 2.5" lowering blocks and an extra "overload" leaf installed

Wheels/Tires: 15x7 -12 with 205/50/15's all around. Stock front fenders needed heavy roll/pull to work (currently using flared fiberglass front), rear needed heavy rolling/pulling to clear tires.

 

Comments: With the shorter inserts, better shocks and new leaf in the rear springs, the car feels completely different. The shocks smoothed out the ride quality by a lot, and I also don't bottom out my struts anymore. The rear feels better now, too. It feels firmer, but also reduced axle wrap, so it feels more stable on accelleration and in cornering. I think that if/when I install better/shorter shocks in rear and a panhard bar, it will feel perfect, though I'd love to delete the lowering blocks alltogether.

 

Very happy with the decision to shorten the front struts!

i love your setup!

its exactly what mean and frank are gonna build for my 4 doorto lower the front

if i want a stiff ride should i go with #200's??

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Year: 1974

Make: Datsun

Model: B120 "Datsun 1200 Pickup"

Front: TRD coilover struts

Rear: flipped leaves

Wheels: Speed Star Co., Ltd. MK-2, Front: 14x7 with 0 offset.

Tires: Front Advan Neo 175/60R14, Rear Advan Neo 195/60R14

 

Comments: Rides terrible, bounces on rough pavement, bangs on potholes. I hate coilovers! But looks cool, which is the important thing.

 

JDM strechy goodness

18662.jpgrear front19322.jpg

 

16550.jpg18782.jpg

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Year: 1972

Make: 510

Front: stock struts, 250# GC Coilovers, Tanabe towerbar and powerslot rotors

Rear: 650# Rear Swift Springs

Wheels/Tires: XXR 15x8 wheels with Dunlops 195/50/15 TW 140

 

Plans: Front and rear sway bars, install my T/C kit bought years ago.

Comments: I cant stop the rear tire rubbin.

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yeah, maybe I need some replacements. It rubs a little when cornering, but thats ok, it has to happen, but I cant sit my 105# girlfriend aside becuase it rubs constantly.....The thing with getting some aftermarket springs is that they lower the car and make it stiff.

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yeah, maybe I need some replacements. It rubs a little when cornering, but thats ok, it has to happen, but I cant sit my 105# girlfriend aside becuase it rubs constantly.....The thing with getting some aftermarket springs is that they lower the car and make it stiff.

 

 

you should be able to find some springs that keep the right height but are just a stiffer spring rate.

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