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chadcopeland.com 620 build.


ChadMK4

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey thanks for the awesome comments! I made it a background on mine as well. But I've got an iphone. Kevin does such awesome work and I had no idea that it would turn out that well. Nor did I ever think the truck would turn out like I saw it in my head.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ive only recently found this thread and have gone through it a few times. Ive got a few questions tho, since im doing something similar to my 521.

 

How did you line up the rear subframe? Level/pitch and hieght in relation to frame specifically.

 

Have you found and stress cracks at your mount points?

 

What size bolts did you use at the subframe mount? (I cant get the right metric size locally and the closest SAE is a touch larger requiring reaming of the metal sleeve in the bushing.)

 

The cowl in the hood, whats it for? Vent?

 

Thanks

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  • 1 month later...

hey man, sorry it took me so long to get back to you.

 

As far as the rear subframe, I used some angle iron that I welded from the original part of the frame to the part taht was going to be shifted. That way the frame would stay stationary after I cut out the piece that was going to be shifted in. There is a picture of it on the website. I think I even explained that in there to.

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I havent seen any stress cracks or fractures. I kinda went overkill on the frame strength and stability.

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I started with angle iron and then replaced everything with 1" black steel tubing.

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And as I"m sure you've seen, there's a full cage and I also ran some more cage tubing that was run from the front tower of the bed mount across and welded to the second tower as it passed by and then welded to the newer part of the frame that I had to cut in. After each event I crawl under the truck and look for stress cracks in the paint and welds. Nothing yet. and I drive pretty hard on the course. Redlining 3rd gear going sideways. :)

 

I can't remember exactly what bolts I used, but you wouldn't how much of the truck was constructed from stuff that I found at Home Depot. I think I used 3/4"x 4.5" grade 5 bolts. You don't need metric bolts. A bolt is a bolt. As long as it's holding and does the job it doesn't matter. Make sure you get lock washers and flat washers though. And on the parts that are going to take shock and extreme abuse, get grade 5. Grade 8 will sheer off if jolted to hard. Its to brittle for some applications.

 

The scoop/vent is exactly that. It's actually a heat defuser from some aircraft. The turbo and exhaust system are directly under it so I figured that I should get the heat out as fast as possible. Plus it looked cool. ;)

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To be more specific, I meant the subframe itself rotates on the wheels so I was wondering what process did you use to get the angle right and decide what distance from the ground to secure it in relation to the frame. If the subframe sits on the floor its in a compressed state in relation to suspension travel and pitches down in te front until the front mounts touch the ground. Am i making any sense?

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Yea I know what you're saying and am following you now. What I did was go look at a 240sx with factory suspension and measure the standard ride height from the frame to the ground (front and rear) and then measured the front two tabs of the subframe to the ground and then the rears to the ground. Then I adjusted the height of the frame of the truck to accommodate to the replication of the 240 so it was sitting the same as the 240. Then I lined up my center axle marks (that were done before ever removing the solid axle and leave springs) with the axles of the subframe, adjusted the height of the front and rear tabs, used a block of wood to hold them still and then started measuring and making tab mounts. Don't forget to measure the sides too. The distance between the truck frame and the inside of the rim. Try to get it with in 1/8" of perfect. That should keep it from Dog-legging to bad. You can adjust any bit that's off with an alignment.

 

You can have it lean back or forward a little if you want. but I wouldn't make it much because that's gonna effect suspension alignment. All your measurements should be done from a factory suspension 240sx. trying to do it from a modded 240 is gonna screw up all your end results.

 

Believe it not, your subframe install is one of the easier parts. Building towers is the hard math. Getting the X, Y and Z correct is gonna be the hard part.

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daammm this truk looks like a beaassttt

 

there is some video of it at some of the events but I haven't seen it yet. I have some in-cab video from my second event. It's not great footage but you can hear the truck and see some of the gauges and the course a little. I will try to put it on vimeo and then put up a link.

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Im actually going to pass on making strut towers. Ill be attempting QA1 style coilovers so I can have as close to stock bed as possible. You wouldnt happen to still have those measurements of the stock 240? Tryin to find an un-modded one that i can measure is gonna be a challenge.

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