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L16 mini rebuild...


Just Joel

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IMG_1621.jpg

 

Saw this too but no way to fit the oil control rings on a compression slot.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/pistonrings002Large.jpg[/img]"]pistonrings002Large.jpg

 

Can't be a reflection as there is only a couple of thou clearance between piston and wall, you'd never see down that far. Must just be an imprint in the oil on the cylinder wall. Looks like two of them.

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Try to move up to a hi compression head now if you are going to spend the money on a head job. This would be a better investment of your funds.

 

Pull pistons and rods, check for damager, get new rings and run a ball home to clean up the bores.

 

Get crank checked, if still within stock, get it polished or do it yourself with emery cloth. Buy bearings as necessary.

 

Get a totally new timing chain set. Clean oil pump and if possible, get turbo springs to boost up pressure.

 

New gaskets all around!

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Thanks everyone... After talking with the machine shop and mauling over pro's and con's of the L16, I've decided to step away from this motor and find a replacement L18 or L20B for more power. I figure if I'm going to the trouble of overhauling this motor, I might as well find the right head and block and spend the money on them rather than something I'm going to replace anyway. If it were as simple as it originally seemed, I'd just get it back together and drive the piss out of it but after what I've found and the cost associated with properly fixing it, it doesn't make sense to continue.

 

So... What should I build? I'm looking for reliable power with simple bolt ons. Not looking to race or drift the thing, I just want to feel comfortable going 65-70 on the highway and have enough power to pass other cars comfortably. I'm new to Datsun in general and don't really know what I can expect from an L18 or an L20b so your help with gauging the pros and cons of each would be greatly appreciated. Again, I'm not looking to build the piss out of the thing. As a matter of fact I’d like to think that aside from a carb and cam upgrade it could stay pretty stock and give me what I need.

 

Thanks

Joel

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Look. If you're tryin' to do this on the cheap to tide you over until you get some more money or something, don't bother re-ringing it. If you re-ring it, you have to pull all the pistons(obviously) and hone your cylinders. If you have a machine shop do it, then it'll cost the price of rings($$$), AND machining costs($$$). THEN, if you want to do it RIGHT, you'll want to hot tank the block(more $$$). AFTER THAT, you MAY AS WELL replace the bearings(which are fine)($$$). Also, all the gaskets will have to be re-done($$$). Yeah, I'll probably get boo-ed by the masses by recommending you not go balls deep into this one, but I recall you saying that you didn't have alot of money to throw at this right now.

Sooo...

If you weren't able to front the $40-$80 for a high compression head, then don't bother starting in on all this other stuff. Sure, it's the RIGHT way to do it, but that's by someone w/ money's standards. For the most part, your engine ran before, looked like it was pulling oil down the intake valves' guides. Deal w/ that, and your timing chain. Do what you have to do. If you can afford it, yeah, a complete rebuild is IDEAL, but if you don't, you have a decent engine as it is, from the looks of it.

 

Do what you gotta do. That's my take.

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Let me rephrase why I'm moving on to another build... I don't mind spending money on the rebuild. What I discovered is that no matter which L series motor I decide to work on, I'm going to spend the same money. I'm also the type that can't leave something behind and fix another. At the beginning, I was under the impression that this motor only had 100k original on it. Thinking this, I was going to re seal and get the car on the road. After digging deeper and deeper, I have come to realize that this motor is in need of more work than originally thought and I'm not comfortable leaving that block the way it is and driving long distance. So, I'm going to be patient and hang up the idea of getting this thing going immediately and focus on building the motor right and save a few bucks that would be spent putting a band aid fix on a motor that I don't ultimately plan using. The car is a project for me and not a daily driver so I have time.

 

I'm sorry for wasting your guy

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Question for you all... How’s the performance with an L16 block, a87 closed chamber head, mild street cam and a 32/36 Weber down draft. Anyone have or driven this combo? I'm balancing economics and performance, trying find a happy spot where the car is drivably fun without going over board. I'm doing a full overhaul so consider a best case scenario as far as engine condition. What can I expect?

 

Thanks

Joel

Edited by Just Joel
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Still looking for the motor with limited success so far :( I've located a head but am working to finding the block still. I've been considering the L18 block specs and have a few questions. Is the only difference between an l16 and an l18 the bore size? The reason why I ask is that I

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What are the difference between blocks from the L16 and the L18?

 

 

 

u need to get a book and start reading bfore we hammer you.

L16/18 are the same height but L16 is 83mm bore L18 85mm bore. Rods and cranks are slightly different but cranks are the same 5 bolt pattern.timming chains are the same length. More of a direct swap when it come to the L motors. L20s use a 6 bolt crank and are taller that why the taller front timming cover cover. but if car use a 200mm flywheel or truck use a 225mm flywheel and clutch set up.

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I know the differences overall, I was just wondering internally what makes an L18 and L18. I've already read the crap out of this forum and couldn't come up with a definitive answer. Sorry if my question was repetitive... I'm more so interested in knowing what would need to be changed to make an L16 an L18 being I'm having such a hard time locating a decent block right now. My L16 is rebuildable but needs a full overhaul. If I'm buying parts for an L16, I might as well upgrade... Right?

 

Thanks

Joel

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I know the differences overall, I was just wondering internally what makes an L18 and L18. I've already read the crap out of this forum and couldn't come up with a definitive answer. Sorry if my question was repetitive... I'm more so interested in knowing what would need to be changed to make an L16 an L18 being I'm having such a hard time locating a decent block right now. My L16 is rebuildable but needs a full overhaul. If I'm buying parts for an L16, I might as well upgrade... Right?

 

Thanks

Joel

 

Hainz already gave you the answer... crank, rods, pistons, and overbore.

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