Feeling like a retard

[JustinB]

I'm trying to put an A15 on a stand to work on it. it won't turn past about a quarter without binding up somewhere so I want to start taking it apart until I figure it out. Problem is....

 

I can't get the damned thing on the stand! I'm kinda feeling retarded, because it seems like it should be a simple thing, but... after wrestling around with it on a hoist for a while, I realized it would be simpler to mount it to the plate of the stand on the ground, and then put the mounting plate on the stand after it was all tightened up. This worked well, except the arms of the mounting plate are tight up against the flywheel so it won't turn now at all. Is there something I'm missing? Anyone ever done this before with the A15? How did you mount it up? I'm using the harbor freight 1000lb stand.

[yellowdatsun]

Show us a pic, would be easier to understand what's wrong.

[JustinB]

Well, from what I'm reading, it's best to remove the flywheel anyway. I was hoping to leave it on because I wanted to test fire the engine before I put it in the car, but I guess I'll just have to worry about that part when i get to it. I'll go snap a picture in a minute.

[datzenmike]

Remove flywheel.

[datsunaholic]

I looked at mine thinking I could help. Mine doesn't have the flywheel on it.

 

 

[MAG58]

Take the flywheel off.

 

Test firing an engine on that kind of a stand is a big mistake.

 

 

...been there.

 

Lesson of the story. it will rotate. Who'da thunk it? I didn't. :blink:

[JustinB]

yeah.... I kinda wondered about that...

 

Okay. Took the flywheel off. It mounted up just fine, like in the picture! :) So, when I'm ready, how do I go about figuring out if it runs before I put it in the car, or do I just not? Don't really want to get hurt or ruin anything.

[fisch]

Take the flywheel off.

 

Test firing an engine on that kind of a stand is a big mistake.

 

 

...been there.

 

Lesson of the story. it will rotate. Who'da thunk it? I didn't. :blink:

 

What do you mean? You mean the engine will try to turn itself upside down? I've no experience with this, but I was thinking about testing compression on an engine I have on a stand with a custom Mklotz spacer ring made from the bell of an old trans (so there is room for the flywheel and the starter can be bolted in too.)

 

If there is a pin in rotational swivel of the stand won't that stop of from moving? I don't plan on actually running the thing. Just checking compression.

 

Also Justin, to temporarily clear the flywheel on my L-18 I used a stack of washers on each attaching point to make enough room for my l-motor flywheel to clear the stand. Until I put on the space ring I mentioned before. The washers have worked fine.

[JustinB]

I thought about stacking washers up in there but those 8mm bolts seem fairly wimpy, and I didn't want to stretch them too far.

 

I have an extra 4sp trans that is shot, I suppose I could use it to make an adapter like that but it could be of use to someone someday, so I'd rather keep it.

[DRIVEN]

The A-series is one of the most simple and forgiving engines ever built. When you are ready to do a compression test or test-fire it you will need a way to bolt up the starter. It isn't necessary to fabricate an adapter. Just bolt the engine to a transmission and set them on the ground. I've run several that way. If the engine won't rotate completely it is possible that a chunk of carbon has come loose and become lodged on top of one of the piston tops limiting it's travel. It's pretty rare that the bottom end fails on these. Have fun with the exploratory surgery:thumbup:.

[JustinB]

Okay, so I've got it ripped down to just the block, pistons, cam, and crank. There was a little rust in cyl 4 that was preventing it from moving up more than about a quarter inch by hand, but when I used a breaker bar, it freed it right up. So, now, everything cleaned up and moving smoothly, but.... Since I've got it apart, I was thinking maybe I should hone the cylinders and put in new rings. I mean, I have no idea what kind of compression there was before, and cyl 3 was pretty oily, so... might as well do it now than put it all back together and find out it's got bad compression or blowing oil. Head looks like it's in really good shape. Everything straight and clean and tight. Block is nasty on the outside, so I think some major parts cleaner and hi-temp paint is in order. Need a gasket kit and rings... Any suggestions on where to get a good price? Is there anything else I should rip out and replace while I'm in here? I don't want to have to pull it back out once I get it in the car.

[datzenmike]

Definitely replace the main and rod bearings too. As for rings, measure the cylinder wear first. If worn past it's limit, new rings won't fit right. (loose) Nissans are pretty good for having tough blocks and usually don't wear much. Also replace the valve seals, it's cheap insurance against oil smoke.