ichorid Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 as a rad it would be better if they made an angular bottom hole so the hose could avoid the tensioner. I guess you can always add that on. but as a new 510 radiator for a 510 seems like that would be a first thought. Quote Link to comment
Rally592 Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 The one i used in mine is a (Spectra - CU1557) for a 98 jetta. It seem to fit the best and be the biggest one I could find without having one custom built. It's quite a bit bigger that the rabbit one. You'll need to get the factory rubber mounts for the bottom from a wrecking yard or the vw dealer since it doesn't come with them. You have to shave the lower mounts just a tiny bit to fit between the rails and then I just bolted it all the way through the core support. Your temp sensor should fit also. I paid about $85 or so new for it What did you use for a radiator cap? Quote Link to comment
510six Posted February 6, 2010 Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 What did you use for a radiator cap? A "T" inline with radiator . http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SME-2202/ The VW Jeeta VR6 radiator works great keeping the L30 turbo stroker in my 510 cool, but it is assisted by 1 12" pusher and an additional 12" puller and a 10" puller fan. The AEM EMS turns the pusher fan on @180 and the puller fans on @ 185 along with a Davies Craig electric helper water pump (cools the car in between drag runs and when traveling on the freeway at 70mph @1700rpm) http://www.daviescraig.com.au/ Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 What did you use for a radiator cap? I'm actually putting a different style in mine, in with the heater hoses on the back of the motor up high. I'll post pics when I get it all installed. Quote Link to comment
NCRmtrsprts510 Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 After lots of measuring and searching, I found an all aluminum radiator for a CA18DET on eBay from roc_ilan. The radiator's overall measurements are 22" wide, 15" tall, and 1.75" thick. The radiator inlet/outlet measurement is 1.25" which is much smaller than KA24DE coolant inlet/outlet which measures 1.5". All I did is really tighten the hose clamps down until the new Spectre flexible radiator hoses wouldn't even budge. The electric fan was an easy choice. I just went to Jegs ang got the 10" electric fan which fits the radiator perfectly. all the ca18det rads i found were too tall?? Quote Link to comment
Toyo Tech Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Has anyone tried the 240sx radiator...I know it's sized correctly for the ka24de.....is there a fitment issue with going into the 510? I'm picking up some KA parts from a guy here in ATL that has a 240sx rad for $25...worth the chance that it will fit??? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 I realize this thread is mostly regarding 510's but I am running the stock 3 core 620 radiator with my KA24DE in my 620 with an electric fan and have zero cooling issues. Old pics before cleaning up the wiring :P 1 Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 So by that logic either buying a 620 radiator or having a stock 510 radiator recored would be enough? just requires a crossover hose that way there's no cutting involved and I feel like this would be the cheapest option for a budget swap like mine Quote Link to comment
tneudy Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 creepys set up looks badass.its huge!. i have a rabbit rad 10" pusher 180 degree temp switch. like mentioned above when car is in motion the rad keeps its cool. but when idling or in traffic, temps tend to go up. i personally dont trust a vw part. someone who i trust very much recommended the afco rad. i was lucky enough to get it for christmas:D 2 1/4" core should keep my ka cool in any situation. afco part #80104n from summit hey how did this radiator work out for you?? it looks beefy and for the right price!! Quote Link to comment
nustad Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 I have the same question. How did the afco work out? Can you post some pics? Really old thread but worth a try.... Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 I purchase this radiator setup for an SR20 for my 520 and am pleased with it. The listing is for the KA 510 swap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-510-ALum-KA24DE-Swap-Radiator-SHROUD-12-FAN-/250836210165?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6700d1f5 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Just to get the info out there, late 70's vw rabbit works well, I've been running one on my ka24de 510 for almost 9 years with no issues. 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 Pics? I actually don't have any. 1 Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 I guess I never posted follow up pics of mine either. So here's some now. Final mockup after fresh paint All done (After all the motor powder coating finished and with a polished cover I built for the radiator) 6 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 I guess I never posted follow up pics of mine either. So here's some now. Final mockup after fresh paint All done (After all the motor powder coating finished and with a polished cover I built for the radiator) That looks like the gti rad, doesn't have a filler cap in the radiator. The early rabbit one has a filler cap in it, but it looks like it might be smaller than that one. Quote Link to comment
Seansm10 Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 Hey creepy cruiser. Are those flexalite slims? And has part number for rad? Also....any reason you took the intake all the way across to driver side? I read a short straight pipe to the passenger side interferes with sensor readings but can't find any solid evidence to confirm. Lord that setup is clean Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 Also upper and lower hose part numbers? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 This one Q? http://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-VW-RABBIT-NEW-RADIATOR-1977-1980-1981-1982-/170107505056?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AVolkswagen%7CModel%3ARabbit&hash=item279b3289a0&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Hey creepy cruiser. Are those flexalite slims? And has part number for rad? Also....any reason you took the intake all the way across to driver side? I read a short straight pipe to the passenger side interferes with sensor readings but can't find any solid evidence to confirm. Lord that setup is clean The radiator = (Spectra - CU1557) for a 98 jetta Upper hose = stock upper 95-97 240sx hose, (just cut down to fit) Lower hose = Gates #21511 that I cut down to fit (with a small chunk of a stock vw hose to use as an adapter sleeve on the rad side) Fan switch = BDW #TFS609 or Niehoff TS25951 Fans are just cheap ebay 12" fans. (only $30 each shipped) They work awesome. We actually only run one fan. The second fan is wired separate as a backup only, (just in case the first one fails.) The whole system works incredible. We took 2 cars that I built with the same system in each, on a fun run up to the top of a mountain ski resort. We went with about 12 other cars in the heat of the simmer (over 100 degrees out) and 8-9 of the cars overheated before the top, and ours never even came close. As for why I went all the way across with the intake: I've done swaps before with Toyotas and Nissans, and I've tried them with short and long tubes, and the short never seems to pull quite as hard and seemed to have a funky idle. There are several different factors that could be the cause of this, but I just liked the way they pull with the long tube. Personal preference. Quote Link to comment
harlow426@mail.com Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Wouldn't the Large factory BRASS radiator in early 80's 720's fit and cool better than a similar sized aluminum rad? With no fan on wp, 100degree weather, I can get a z motor to 'build' heat sitting @ idle.....1/2 mile down the road back 2 normal. I can appreciate the big honkin' alum radiator...looks good and lighter. Quote Link to comment
freekwonder Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Hey Creepy, can't remember how do you handle the fill cap and and an over flow? Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted February 4, 2015 Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 You can kind of see them in this pic. I wanted them hidden a bit, so I put them on the back of the motor. If you look against the firewall behind the intake, you can see a bicycle water bottle. That's the overflow. The guy I built this car for owns a bicycle shop, so I just thought it would be cool to use a bottle with his company logo on it for the overflow. The filler is the red/white cap you see also kind of behind the intake, high against the firewall. It taps into the heater hose by the starter. Also runs to the overflow bottle. Here is a pic before I did all the powder coating, and you can see it all a little better since it's not so dark in there, lol. 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted February 4, 2015 Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 This one Q? http://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-VW-RABBIT-NEW-RADIATOR-1977-1980-1981-1982-/170107505056?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AVolkswagen%7CModel%3ARabbit&hash=item279b3289a0&vxp=mtr That be the one, has a fan temp switch bung in it too, mine just doesn't work. :lol: 1 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 4, 2015 Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 You can kind of see them in this pic. I wanted them hidden a bit, so I put them on the back of the motor. If you look against the firewall behind the intake, you can see a bicycle water bottle. That's the overflow. The guy I built this car for owns a bicycle shop, so I just thought it would be cool to use a bottle with his company logo on it for the overflow. The filler is the red/white cap you see also kind of behind the intake, high against the firewall. It taps into the heater hose by the starter. Also runs to the overflow bottle. Here is a pic before I did all the powder coating, and you can see it all a little better since it's not so dark in there, lol. Great job creepy very inspiring, did you have a thread on this build by chance? Quote Link to comment
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