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engine removal 620


moparvwfreak

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with or without transmission???? and no i am not cutting the core support to pull the motor. i will be pulling the motors on BOTH 620s and mix-n-matching the parts. i have a good trans in my 73 but a good motor in the 78. also for now, i am going to use the clutch out of the 78 since its already installed. and yes i will be using the L20 TO bearing to be safe.

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IMO, it's plenty easy to pull the motor/trans together.

you will want to pull the steering center link (it helps to have a steering rod puller tool. you can rent from kragen...)

and you will want to have plenty of head room- and a leveler on your hoist!

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IMO, it's plenty easy to pull the motor/trans together.

you will want to pull the steering center link (it helps to have a steering rod puller tool. you can rent from kragen...)

and you will want to have plenty of head room- and a leveler on your hoist!

 

what he said ^^ btw i think you can use a hammer on the steering link not sure tho..

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IMO, it's plenty easy to pull the motor/trans together.

you will want to pull the steering center link (it helps to have a steering rod puller tool. you can rent from kragen...)

and you will want to have plenty of head room- and a leveler on your hoist!

 

alright. will do. already have the leveler and a 2 ton hoist. i am going to be pulling both hoods with hinges so i dont have to realign the hoods when i put them back on.

 

what he said ^^ btw i think you can use a hammer on the steering link not sure tho..

 

i should be able to. if i have enough room

 

i used a hammer, dont forget to take the shifter off first though, it took me an hour to figure out why i couldn't get the damn engine/trans out of the truck

 

thats the next thing to come out of both. that way i can make sure i have all the hangups out of the way.

 

 

also where is the best place to chain the motors up at? the L16 wont be a problem as i have the head off and can use head bolts to attach the chains (eventually i will be rebuilding the motor with ARP head studs and what not so i dont care what happens to the old bolts.) but the L20 is still complete.

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what he said ^^ btw i think you can use a hammer on the steering link not sure tho..

 

DONT DO IT!!! :( that's what I did first... and I mashed my threads to shit.

now I have to doctor them back into shape... beh.... it's worthwhile to use a puller... shit it's worth it to but a good one to have and rent out to friends- you'll need it again eventually!!!:D

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DONT DO IT!!! :( that's what I did first... and I mashed my threads to shit.

now I have to doctor them back into shape... beh.... it's worthwhile to use a puller... shit it's worth it to but a good one to have and rent out to friends- you'll need it again eventually!!!:D

 

i know better than to pound on the threads. you use the hammer on the outside of where the thread goes in. just smack it a few times and it'll pop. but if all else fails, i think i have a separator somewhere in this mess i call a shop. somewhere and think are the key words though :)

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i know better than to pound on the threads. you use the hammer on the outside of where the thread goes in. just smack it a few times and it'll pop. but if all else fails, i think i have a separator somewhere in this mess i call a shop. somewhere and think are the key words though :)

 

hehe, I have it hell with the BFH all around it- on the pitman arm, but no budge.

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  • 2 weeks later...

motors out on the 78. i couldn't find my seperator so i just yanked the trans. btw, prefer to pull a short tail vs a long. i ended up yanking the clutch, which looks AWESOME, in order to drop the trans. but all in all it was a 3-3.5 hour from start to finish. most of the time spent pulling the trans, assembling and adjusting my hoist so i could pull the motor.

 

 

might just the clutch that was on the L20 for now as i am in a cash bind. should i swap TO bearings on the sleaves or just leave the one i have in the 73 on that sleave and call it good???

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