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What have you done to your 1200 lately


OpelWagenGT

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I put a Datsun Comp. H145 LSD in the car 2 weeks ago. Works great!

 

Will get to see how it feel racing on the weekend of the 21st during our young drivers education event and race at Astoria airport.

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  • 1 month later...

Finally got around to putting in the matchbox dizzy I bought about a year ago. Really is pretty simple. I really can't tell if it runs much better, but feels smoother on the but dyno.

Still need to gap the plugs wider. I will try and get new plugs and gap them .050 this weekend. Will be nice to say goodbye to points adjustments! :cool:

 

Also finally fabbed up some brackets to install the honda crx seats I had sitting around. The car had Acura Integra seats when I bought it, but the drivers side was bent some and was uncomfortable. These are really comfy. Sorry no pics yet, :huh: but I will post some if you really want to see them.

 

Been driving it alot lately, lovin it.

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Don't expect more HP from the matchbox dizzy. It still has the wrong advance curves (the stock 1200 distributor does not have optimal advance curves either). It won't make any more power than new points & condensor with correctly adjusted dwell. But it will be more reliable, and is always using the correct dwell.

 

For the motor mounts, the B310 has improved ones that even if the rubber breaks, the engine won't fall off:

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But the B110 mounts last about 20 years, so are still good units.

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Apparently if you set the dwell to 53 deg and play with one of the advance springs to make it a bit lighter (less pull) on the standard A-series points dizzy you can get up to 50% more power out of an A12. At least thats what someone on 1200.com told me they read in a magazine.

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They got 50% more power out of an out-of-tune A12. They changed the total mechanical (centrifigal) advance, from the factory specified 4200 RPM to getting it all in earlier (maybe about 3800, they didn't say). Plus they rejetted the carb on the top end.

 

With electronic ignition the dwell will always be correct. Go and upgrade now :P

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  • 1 month later...

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Forged Performance in Troutdale Oregon hosted Z-car meet, I took SMURF ON THE DYNO - 3 pulls for $40.00 for this event only. Results not good- Max HP was 40.2 @4700 RPM and Max Torque 49.4ft/lbs @3800. Rear wheel HP should be about 56-58 @6000 rpm so not so good. I knew the stock motor was tired but that's WEAK. Time to get busy on the A14/63A/RX7 rear end swap before the weather gets wet. Good fun at Forged Performance!

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I think you should be spending more time/money on your bodywork than your driveline Morrison lol What motor and parts/specs did the blue coupe had when you had it on the dyno?

 

What are headlight doors? The steel surrounds that fill up the space around the headlight when you fit the early model steel grille?

 

Finished my bonnet a couple of months ago:

 

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Results not good- Max HP was 40.2 @4700 RPM and Max Torque 49.4ft/lbs @3800. Rear wheel HP should be about 56-58 @6000 rpm so not so good.

 

No dyno pull has show 57 rwhp on a stock A12. They are 45 rwhp or lower.

 

 

I knew the stock motor was tired but that's WEAK.

In a 1600 lb car, it is not so weak, just middling. In a 2000 lb car like the B210 it would be weak.

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Thanks, needs another set of hinges towards the outside and the frontmost piece needs to be redone as the fitment is not quite what I wanted (notice there is no screw holding it in on the right hand side) but other that that quite happy with how it turned out :cool:

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No dyno pull has show 57 rwhp on a stock A12. They are 45 rwhp or lower.

 

A few of us took our low hp cars to the PRE dyno day on May 7th this spring.

 

My stocker with port matching on the intake manifold and head, re-jetting, and a re-curved distributor in the race car did:

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Jerry's 1200 with unknown internal mods, webber and a header did:

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It was quite entertaining. We had the lowest hp cars at the event and were probably happier with the results than anyone else there... I know I was expecting less...

 

Great job on the trunk floor KELMO!

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I bought this 1200 for 1000 an paid someone 1200 to do some body work I was ripped off an lucky to get the car back in pices.. I sad screw it I will learn to repair my cars my self. iwould not start so I added this button from Harbor freight 10 bucks.

 

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I am repairing the rear end an I am having a tough time the lines are rounded I do not know what I am doing I just want this to be a daily driver that will not get me pulled over. Plus I do not want to do to much body work incase down the road some one wants to do a total restore any way the rear end bondo is wavy it looks bad any ideias

 

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any ideas waht to do here that is cheap with duck tape an bondo or cheap thin metel that I can learn I am a rookie an my work looks like shit

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I have a crack in the window can this be repaired by a mobil repair It is hard to find winsheild for the 1200

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get a replacent pannel and tack it in. . Have you looked on e bay

 

is this a unversel panel I think they onlt sold about 40,000 of these care around 40 years ago I am having troulbe finding glass or any parts for this

 

 

 

My grill was rusted an it was easyer to get a 99 cent can of flat black an spray it

 

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Whitey, for a guy that claims to not know what he's doing...your doing pretty good. Looks like you (and myself) need to learn how to weld, I think that is the only way you will be able to repair that panel on the quarter. Also, rust will come back through your paint on that grille. Keep doing what your doing and learn as you go,thats the way most of us on here have done it......I think. Good luck

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  • 4 months later...

Picked these up last week in Portland. 13x7 ROH don't see many wheels made from "down under".

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Tires are Kumho 215/50-13, fit under the back fine, the front may need a bit of a flare.

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If I stay with 13's the car will have to be lowered front and rear, maybe front adjustable coil overs and 5 way adjustable struts.

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It's been fun driving on these as it hasn't rained in a week which is saying something for Oregon!

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