Jump to content

timing


bonvo

Recommended Posts

is it possible to do any damage with to much timing? im not sure where mine is set right now but it doesnt ping and it starts up right away but i know its higher then 12 degrees what do you guys think is a good point to set the initial timing

Link to comment
  • Replies 10
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

depends on the induction setup and the ignition setup. With a weber downdraft and electronic ignition, I'd say 12-15...

 

thats exactly what im running but we have it set at the moment i think at about 18 not sure would need to double check it

Link to comment

YES -- too much timing can damage your engine, melt the pistons, crack the ring lands, etc.

 

Total should be less than 32-35 degrees at full throttle and high revs. Datsun distributor may have 24 degrees total mechanical, so you could have up to 11 degrees static advance. Another distributor may have 22 degrees, so 14 degrees static might be OK.

 

That being said, you can usually tell if it's too far advanced by listening for "pinging". But it's hard to hear if you have loud exhaust.

Link to comment

have any of you guys ever heard of pinging getting worse when you retard the timing? my dad says he thinks its worse now that we bumped the timing back a little i think it needs to be retarded more but thats me

Link to comment

Great topic Bonvo.

I was talking to Steve @ Z-Therapy on this issue. He told me that a lot of the "match box" dizzys have a TOTAL advance close to the 70 degree mark. That is seventy!!! It is in the way they are made. He recurves his to keep them under 38 degrees total advance. My spare is going in soon!

Link to comment

Under certain conditions of light throttle or deceleration, an advance of around 50 degrees is possible. 70 seems a bit high. The dizzy has a mechanical advance of 20-24 degrees built in but has to be revved to 3K? The static timing is 12 degrees set by timing light at idle. So there is the maximum 33-35 degrees total advance at full throttle. At full throttle there isn't enough vacuum to cause any dizzy vacuum advance but if the throttle is lifted suddenly at high RPM, full vacuum advance of 12 or more degrees would be added to the static and mechanical advance pushing it up well into the high 40s, maybe higher... but only at high RPMs and light throttle. No L engine will run with much more than 35 degrees total advance at full throttle.

Link to comment

Not after about '70. The vacuum is ported at the carb and the opening is above the throttle plate. As the throttle is opened the plate moves above the opening and applies vacuum to it advancing the dizzy. There is no vacuum advance at the dizzy at idle on any L20B and L18s. Maybe some of the earlier '60s L16s maybe not.

Link to comment

do you time yours at an idle or 2500 rpm?? I was told to time your motor anywhere from 2500-3000 RPM with the vac off it give you a more accurate load timming.

 

just they way my grandpa showed my and we never used a light lol

 

now i just have my mech do it

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.