BACARDI_DWB Posted August 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 (edited) Finding another pan is as easy as opening the summit catalog, they are about 60$ a piece for a brand new one. I am using mig on a bottle and i think i will go ahead and try it. time to go to the metal mart!! Also i am kind of at a stopping point for the suspension until i can get some money to buy replacement bushings, tie rod ends, tie rod, and other odds and ends. I am going to do polyurathane bushings with zirt fittings in each one so i can make sure they never squeak, and stay lubed without taking anything apart. plus its a fraction the cost of putting in stock rubber mounts... I guess I am at that point in my build where I need to find some cash. As soon as my tranny crossmember arrives (ebay) I should be doing the mock-up for my motor/tranny. Edited August 28, 2009 by BACARDI_DWB Quote Link to comment
Madmax Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 save even the $60 and do it yourself...did one myself, had to do multiple passes and looked really bad, but since its on the bottom no one will see it anyway...and if after all you dont like it, then buy a new shiny one...my 2cents.....your going to have a cool ride when she's done... Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 you dont trust yourself with welding an oilpan yet you do awsome work on subfame attatchment points you can do it man its only sheet metal at that even easier in my opinionWelding sheet metal is more difficult than welding thicker pieces, but I'd say welding an oil pan is easier than say a door skin:p. Like mike said, it can be hard to get it air tight, mainly because you have to stop a lot for the metal to cool so that you're not warping it or heating it up so much that you start to blow through with the mig wire feed. Then when you restart you have the increased surface area/volume of the weld bead to melt right next to the rest of the sheet metal joint and it's hard to melt into that bead all the way without blowing through the unwelded joint. Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 Doing a lap joint will yield better results on an oilpan than a butt joint... just saying... Quote Link to comment
Yakuza Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 looking good, nice work, made me go back and look @ bob3's project,,,,,,:D Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 Doing a lap joint will yield better results on an oilpan than a butt joint... just saying... Very good point. would you guys recommend welding the inside and outside? or just the outside? Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 Very good point. would you guys recommend welding the inside and outside? or just the outside?Seems like a butt joint welded on both sides, or a very short lap joint welded on both sides would be the easiest. Once you have a bead on one side you can turn up the heat a little and not blow through. Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 awesome, thanks for the advice, what gauge metal should I use? Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 I could be wrong, but this looks like about 1/8" plate... Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 I doubt that's 1/8". 1/8" would be way overkill IMO, plus getting good penetration of the 1/8" next to the stock, thinner material will be difficult without blowing through the stock material. 15-18 gauge would be good, IMO. Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 (edited) Your probably right, the lighting in that pic sure makes the pieces look thick though. For me though, welding thick to thin is easier than thin to thin. Concetrate your heat on the thicker material and draw your bead toward the thinner material in kind of a semi-J pattern. If you decide to do it, why not do some baffling while your at it. Edited August 28, 2009 by zuum510 Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 Your probably right, the lighting in that pic sure makes the pieces look thick though. For me though, welding thick to thin is easier than thin to thin. Concetrate your heat on the thicker material and draw your bead toward the thinner material in kind of a semi-J pattern. If you decide to do it, why not do some baffling while your at it. haha, i had the exact same thought while looking at dukes thread: I am pretty sure i will run some sort of baffling Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 wow, I just looked at the pricelist again, its $250 to do the oil pan. I am definately doing it myself now Quote Link to comment
Hyphy Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 (edited) Since youd be using a MIG, Id recommend doing a stitch type weld. This isnt a structural piece and its not a very thick steel so you dont need a ton of penetration. It will/could look nicer tan doing beaded sections. It also means you can jump around the pan and spread out the heat. There is one thing worth noting tho. If you cant get the spot to lay down and the weld continues to just ball up on top of your surface, youll end up with more places you could get a leak. Find the right settings with some scrap first and you may end up with a piece that looks TIG'd and water tight. Know that its possible and all you need is practice. Ive done this on body panels a few times and while more time consuming, I think itd be better than trying to do sections of bead. just gotta run a lil more amps and a lil less wire. welders note: this method i suggested never works on aluminum. :mad: Edited August 28, 2009 by Hyphy Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 Hyphy- you caught me a little too late. Requirements: Cheap Does not leak Looks good Well I got two out of the three requirements (Cheap and doesn't leak) I could care less if it looks good right now, its not a show car and it saved me over $200. I am happy. The replacement metal is 16g and the pan is also 16g. I did alot of overlapping, and yes the welds look like crap, but they don't leak....yet. We will see what happens after I get some oil in there and there is some crankcase pressure going on. Pics: believe me the welds get worse as the day progresses and I try to stop the leaks that did happen The water has been sitting in there for over 10 min and not one leak. I don't think i am going to do a baffle trap door setup since I have VERY limited space as you can see in this picture: So I will be happy with my ugly, cheap and leak free pan :lol: Quote Link to comment
zenndog Posted August 29, 2009 Report Share Posted August 29, 2009 Is that the oil pump pickup peeking out in that smaller section of pan at the front of the motor? If it is I would worry about not getting enough oil. Am I over thinking or not seeing something right? Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2009 Is that the oil pump pickup peeking out in that smaller section of pan at the front of the motor? If it is I would worry about not getting enough oil. Am I over thinking or not seeing something right? the oil pump is on the small side up front, and the larger section is where the sump goes. it will have PLENTY of oil space still Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2009 (edited) well i got more done: Remember, this motor is NOT the one that is going in. that motor is at the machine shop. this one is only for mockup. I don't have any of the mounts done and I realized that I need to go with manual steering. oh well, its still rack and pinion fits nicely in there most of the weight is still behind the front wheels. I am going to have to modify the k-member as planned to make room for the starter. downside: i have to pull the motor anytime the starter needs to be changed I am so stoked!! stock manifolds fit!!! they are not the best for performance, but i am not too worried, that is what the twin t3/t4 turbos are for. I will still have my 400hp God I am glad i don't have to make manifolds, I just have to hog these out I am going to have to check the clearance for the driver side manifold to see if it will clear the steering but at this point its just details I am getting excited..... Edited August 29, 2009 by BACARDI_DWB Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2009 (edited) oh yeah, from my measurements, I will be fitting this under the stock hood by a half inch... I thought I would like to mention. I just went out and mocked up the driver side manifold. it will clear the steering perfectly, like it was meant to be there!! Edited August 29, 2009 by BACARDI_DWB Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted August 29, 2009 Report Share Posted August 29, 2009 Good job. Originally I thought, "how could a guy who is building a IRS truck be affraid of modding an oil pan...", now you see there, that wasn't so bad. :D :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted August 29, 2009 Report Share Posted August 29, 2009 Very nice!!! Lovin' all the pics!!! Keep it up! Hyphy.....just to be sure...since I'm still a novice welder.....when you said "just gotta run a lil more amps and a lil less wire" ....was that suppose to be a little less volts, since, by my understanding, the amps are controlled by the wire speed. ? :) I've been doing some reading on welding...so I want to make sure I'm keeping all this info straight! I'm not too bright according to my siggy :) Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted August 30, 2009 Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 You're spot on Mike....no pun intended. :lol: Amperage is usually controlled by wire speed, you would need more voltage and less wire. Some of the newer machines have seperate settings that are used to fine tune the amperage even more. And on the pulse-mig machines, you can control the time and speed of the pulses, which makes for enless possibilities. Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 Just purchased: Complete suspension rebuild with: Urathane ball joints Tie rod ends Zerk fittings for the A-Arms so they don't squeek Tranny mount Engine mounts I am leaving for a week on travel for work. Hopefully these parts are here by the time I get home so I can get to work on my truck again. Quote Link to comment
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