Jump to content

Ryans 521 Build


Recommended Posts

Finding another pan is as easy as opening the summit catalog, they are about 60$ a piece for a brand new one. I am using mig on a bottle and i think i will go ahead and try it. time to go to the metal mart!!

 

Also i am kind of at a stopping point for the suspension until i can get some money to buy replacement bushings, tie rod ends, tie rod, and other odds and ends. I am going to do polyurathane bushings with zirt fittings in each one so i can make sure they never squeak, and stay lubed without taking anything apart. plus its a fraction the cost of putting in stock rubber mounts... I guess I am at that point in my build where I need to find some cash. As soon as my tranny crossmember arrives (ebay) I should be doing the mock-up for my motor/tranny.

Edited by BACARDI_DWB
Link to comment
  • Replies 157
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

save even the $60 and do it yourself...did one myself, had to do multiple passes and looked really bad, but since its on the bottom no one will see it anyway...and if after all you dont like it, then buy a new shiny one...my 2cents.....your going to have a cool ride when she's done...

Link to comment
you dont trust yourself with welding an oilpan yet you do awsome work on subfame attatchment points you can do it man its only sheet metal at that even easier in my opinion
Welding sheet metal is more difficult than welding thicker pieces, but I'd say welding an oil pan is easier than say a door skin:p. Like mike said, it can be hard to get it air tight, mainly because you have to stop a lot for the metal to cool so that you're not warping it or heating it up so much that you start to blow through with the mig wire feed. Then when you restart you have the increased surface area/volume of the weld bead to melt right next to the rest of the sheet metal joint and it's hard to melt into that bead all the way without blowing through the unwelded joint.
Link to comment
Very good point. would you guys recommend welding the inside and outside? or just the outside?
Seems like a butt joint welded on both sides, or a very short lap joint welded on both sides would be the easiest. Once you have a bead on one side you can turn up the heat a little and not blow through.
Link to comment

Your probably right, the lighting in that pic sure makes the pieces look thick though.

 

For me though, welding thick to thin is easier than thin to thin. Concetrate your heat on the thicker material and draw your bead toward the thinner material in kind of a semi-J pattern.

 

If you decide to do it, why not do some baffling while your at it.

traps_big.jpg

Edited by zuum510
Link to comment
Your probably right, the lighting in that pic sure makes the pieces look thick though.

 

For me though, welding thick to thin is easier than thin to thin. Concetrate your heat on the thicker material and draw your bead toward the thinner material in kind of a semi-J pattern.

 

If you decide to do it, why not do some baffling while your at it.

traps_big.jpg

 

haha, i had the exact same thought while looking at dukes thread:

IMGP1962.jpg

 

I am pretty sure i will run some sort of baffling

Link to comment

Since youd be using a MIG, Id recommend doing a stitch type weld. This isnt a structural piece and its not a very thick steel so you dont need a ton of penetration. It will/could look nicer tan doing beaded sections. It also means you can jump around the pan and spread out the heat. There is one thing worth noting tho. If you cant get the spot to lay down and the weld continues to just ball up on top of your surface, youll end up with more places you could get a leak.

 

Find the right settings with some scrap first and you may end up with a piece that looks TIG'd and water tight. Know that its possible and all you need is practice.

Ive done this on body panels a few times and while more time consuming, I think itd be better than trying to do sections of bead. just gotta run a lil more amps and a lil less wire.

 

 

welders note: this method i suggested never works on aluminum. :mad:

Edited by Hyphy
Link to comment

Hyphy- you caught me a little too late.

 

Requirements:

Cheap

Does not leak

Looks good

 

Well I got two out of the three requirements (Cheap and doesn't leak) I could care less if it looks good right now, its not a show car and it saved me over $200. I am happy.

 

The replacement metal is 16g and the pan is also 16g. I did alot of overlapping, and yes the welds look like crap, but they don't leak....yet. We will see what happens after I get some oil in there and there is some crankcase pressure going on.

 

Pics:

 

CIMG3220.jpg

 

CIMG3221.jpg

 

CIMG3222.jpg

 

CIMG3223.jpg

 

CIMG3224.jpg

 

CIMG3225.jpg

believe me the welds get worse as the day progresses and I try to stop the leaks that did happen

CIMG3227.jpg

 

CIMG3228.jpg

 

CIMG3229.jpg

 

CIMG3230.jpg

 

CIMG3231.jpg

 

CIMG3232.jpg

 

CIMG3233.jpg

 

CIMG3234.jpg

 

CIMG3235.jpg

 

CIMG3236.jpg

 

CIMG3237.jpg

 

CIMG3238.jpg

 

CIMG3239.jpg

 

CIMG3240.jpg

 

CIMG3241.jpg

 

CIMG3242.jpg

 

CIMG3243.jpg

 

The water has been sitting in there for over 10 min and not one leak. I don't think i am going to do a baffle trap door setup since I have VERY limited space as you can see in this picture:

CIMG3240.jpg

 

So I will be happy with my ugly, cheap and leak free pan :lol:

Link to comment
Is that the oil pump pickup peeking out in that smaller section of pan at the front of the motor? If it is I would worry about not getting enough oil. Am I over thinking or not seeing something right?

 

the oil pump is on the small side up front, and the larger section is where the sump goes. it will have PLENTY of oil space still

Link to comment

well i got more done:

 

Remember, this motor is NOT the one that is going in. that motor is at the machine shop. this one is only for mockup.

 

I don't have any of the mounts done and I realized that I need to go with manual steering. oh well, its still rack and pinion

CIMG3244.jpg

 

fits nicely in there

CIMG3245.jpg

 

most of the weight is still behind the front wheels.

CIMG3246.jpg

 

CIMG3247.jpg

 

CIMG3248.jpg

 

CIMG3249.jpg

 

CIMG3250.jpg

 

I am going to have to modify the k-member as planned to make room for the starter. downside: i have to pull the motor anytime the starter needs to be changed

CIMG3252.jpg

 

CIMG3256.jpg

 

I am so stoked!! stock manifolds fit!!! they are not the best for performance, but i am not too worried, that is what the twin t3/t4 turbos are for. I will still have my 400hp

CIMG3257.jpg

 

God I am glad i don't have to make manifolds, I just have to hog these out

CIMG3259.jpg

 

I am going to have to check the clearance for the driver side manifold to see if it will clear the steering but at this point its just details

 

I am getting excited.....

Edited by BACARDI_DWB
Link to comment

Very nice!!! Lovin' all the pics!!! Keep it up!

 

Hyphy.....just to be sure...since I'm still a novice welder.....when you said "just gotta run a lil more amps and a lil less wire" ....was that suppose to be a little less volts, since, by my understanding, the amps are controlled by the wire speed. ? :) I've been doing some reading on welding...so I want to make sure I'm keeping all this info straight! I'm not too bright according to my siggy :)

Link to comment

You're spot on Mike....no pun intended. :lol: Amperage is usually controlled by wire speed, you would need more voltage and less wire. Some of the newer machines have seperate settings that are used to fine tune the amperage even more. And on the pulse-mig machines, you can control the time and speed of the pulses, which makes for enless possibilities.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.