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To re-torque or not to re-torque


Mesh-71

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I have a question that I cannot seem to find the answer to: The fel-pro head gasket says no re-torque right on it, is this just for dumbasses who would try and reuse the head gasket? Or should I not re-torque the head a couple hundred miles after head gasket replacement?

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It needs absolutely no re-torquing. But it won't hurt to do so. Just be sure to do the intial installation according the the factory service manual pattern, tightening in three stages to the final torque. If you have prepped the block and head face correctly, it will be as good as retorquing.

 

As per the Datsun factory manual, retorque the head bolts every 12 months or whatever the schedule says.

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As per the Datsun factory manual, retorque the head bolts every 12 months or whatever the schedule says.

 

There are quite a few heads that require that and when I tell people like custies they all shrug it off. Then they bitch and moan 30k miles later when their heads weeping.

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I have a question that I cannot seem to find the answer to: The fel-pro head gasket says no re-torque right on it, is this just for dumbasses who would try and reuse the head gasket? Or should I not re-torque the head a couple hundred miles after head gasket replacement?

 

 

That's a good question

Last cylinder head replacement I did had that "no-retorque" marked on the gasket. :confused::confused:

#4 cylinder was leaking tiny bit of coolant from the outside after few runs, re-torqued :D

It was ok after that

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got to thinking, my Datsun head gasket hasn't been re-torqued in six years. Last week it was using quart of coolant every half-hour drive (and running a bit hot by the end of the freeway trip). So today I retorqued the gasket and re-adjusted the valves. After a two-hour drive, temperature stayed steady and didn't lose any coolant.

 

Co-incidence? Or should I plan on changing the head gasket now?

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I really wonder if the retorque every year applies to modern head gaskets? I would think the gasket materials have changed dramatically since these engines were new, and it might not be necessary to retorque modern gaskets as much as the old gasket styles. This isn't to say that a new gasket doesn't need retorqued after a few hundred miles or right after it has first been installed, though.

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It needs absolutely no re-torquing. But it won't hurt to do so. Just be sure to do the intial installation according the the factory service manual pattern, tightening in three stages to the final torque. If you have prepped the block and head face correctly, it will be as good as retorquing.

 

As per the Datsun factory manual, retorque the head bolts every 12 months or whatever the schedule says.

 

This is good advice!

 

After installation re-torque after several warm ups and cool downs. Actually you are only checking the torque. If it tightens... then it needed it. If it doesn't then it's fine. It would be best to check the torque every tune up and with the enging COLD.

 

The factory recomends the following on the Z20/22/24 engines that are prone to h/g failure: At every subsequent tune up, loosen each head bolt one at a time in no particular order and torque to final value. No one I know bothers with this... and gaskets do blow. Maybe the factory knows something? I see no problem with doing this with any L series motor.

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It's all about heat and how it affects material.

 

Aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates when higer temperatures are applied. This can cause all sorts of problems when you have an aluminum head on a steel block.

 

Datsun engineers solved this by telling you to retorque that shit on occasion.

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