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What did you do to your dime today?


Mesh-71

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i havent posted any updates lately but during this past week i have:

put my front bumper back on

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put some old prelude seats or something like that

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bought a mint back seat for $100

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put on my white drivers side door so my door would actually close with out having to slam it

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added some blue leds inside so i have some light at night and also hooked a switch up to the leds and gauge lights

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got some new wheels

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painted new wheels gun metal

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and bought some amber bosch lights so i could install my pink HIDs=]

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i just odered some clear euro style low beams so i can put the pink ones in those and white ones in the amber to keep the amber look

guess i got some work done=] now i need to get 50 series tires and lower the front end more. plenty of springs to be cut=]

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Well Jeff, I'm making forward progress. I got the seat installation finished tonight - got the carpet back in. Now I have a seat to sit in so I can bleed the brakes! If they work, then I'll permit the car and move it to a location where I'll start the bodywork (I can't do it my shared shop - way too messy). I hope to paint it back to its original grey/green and then pass the car on to my brother. So far he has no clue I'm doing this for him, and I know he won't be on this site! Once the car is painted, I

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byron, would you mind posting the measurements you used for the seat mounts?

 

I just picked up a set of e30 sport seats (not the recaros) and I'm gonna need to mount them in my car...

 

thanks :o

 

 

The beauty of these E30 seats is that the mounting is so strait forward - but it still takes a while to do the job.

 

Both front mounts and the inner rear mount were the same height at 3/4" tall + they are welded to a 1/8" plate to spread out the load (1 1/2 X 4" on the two front mounts laid out across the car and 3X3" plates under the rear stanchions). The outside, rear stanchion was 1 3/16" high, and the bottom will need to be angled about 10 degrees to get it vertical (the floor slopes in that area). The tar pads chipped away pretty nicely, but the wire wheel I used to strip the paint before welding did a great job of smearing tar all over the bare metal (I ended up cleaning this off with acetone - also gives you a brief cheap high! :eek:). The center of each of the 4 stanchions are tapped for M10X1.5 threads, and I bolted the seats right to them, no getting under the car to try and tighten them. A captive nut on the bottom of the car would also work, but here in the heart of rain country, it's not such a good thing.

 

 

Hope that helps.

 

Byron

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i havent posted any updates lately but during this past week i have:

put my front bumper back on

IMAGE_088.jpg

put some old prelude seats or something like that

IMAGE_090.jpg

bought a mint back seat for $100

IMAGE_093.jpg

put on my white drivers side door so my door would actually close with out having to slam it

IMAGE_082.jpg

IMAGE_086.jpg

added some blue leds inside so i have some light at night and also hooked a switch up to the leds and gauge lights

IMAGE_080.jpg

got some new wheels

IMAGE_159.jpg

painted new wheels gun metal

IMAGE_190.jpg

and bought some amber bosch lights so i could install my pink HIDs=]

IMAGE_166.jpg

IMAGE_184.jpg

IMAGE_185.jpg

i just odered some clear euro style low beams so i can put the pink ones in those and white ones in the amber to keep the amber look

guess i got some work done=] now i need to get 50 series tires and lower the front end more. plenty of springs to be cut=]

 

is it me or do the fronts look deeper then the backs and why paint them i like how they look polished personally

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The beauty of these E30 seats is that the mounting is so strait forward - but it still takes a while to do the job.

 

Both front mounts and the inner rear mount were the same height at 3/4" tall + they are welded to a 1/8" plate to spread out the load (1 1/2 X 4" on the two front mounts laid out across the car and 3X3" plates under the rear stanchions). The outside, rear stanchion was 1 3/16" high, and the bottom will need to be angled about 10 degrees to get it vertical (the floor slopes in that area). The tar pads chipped away pretty nicely, but the wire wheel I used to strip the paint before welding did a great job of smearing tar all over the bare metal (I ended up cleaning this off with acetone - also gives you a brief cheap high! :eek:). The center of each of the 4 stanchions are tapped for M10X1.5 threads, and I bolted the seats right to them, no getting under the car to try and tighten them. A captive nut on the bottom of the car would also work, but here in the heart of rain country, it's not such a good thing.

 

 

Hope that helps.

 

Byron

 

I think im going to do what you did with jb weld for a test fit. I'm 5'6 and I like having the seats up a little higher than what you have.

 

my brace across the floorpan is actually missing. do you think I should have some bar stock welded back in, or another brace put in? or does that matter?

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What did you do to your 510 today?

 

:eek:I Cut It Up Into A Bunch Of Pieces:eek:

 

Before:

 

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After:

 

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:DParts anyone?:D

 

 

 

I plan on keeping the front clip intact and will use it as a mock up engine bay for a future engine swap I have been dreaming about.

 

Unless someone wants to buy it:D

 

All the parts are for sale:(

 

 

The doors are very clean and straight. The rear bumper is straight, the tail light panel has some minor rust but is straight, the fenders are rusty at the bottoms, the hood is straight.

 

I have lots more parts if you need something.

Edited by qwik510
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Are you looking for the metal to replace the rusty section?

 

Or do you want the rear window trim?

 

I'm looking for the patch piece, cut beyond the seam so I can keep the seam w/o smoothing it over. and most likely I'll have to replace the seal too. datsunlandsocal is close, so I can probably get the seal from him.

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I'm looking for the patch piece, cut beyond the seam so I can keep the seam w/o smoothing it over. and most likely I'll have to replace the seal too. datsunlandsocal is close, so I can probably get the seal from him.

 

I will be back over there next week. I will take a look at it and see if it is decent for a patch.

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friday i pulled my l20 put on some new steering parts

saturday rebuilt(i like having a buddy who owns a machine shop) it put it back together tuned it some what put on new rear swaybar, lubed everything:eek::fu::lol:

sunday today it goes to the mech house for a final tune and new exhaust

 

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then we played our drinking game

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cell pics srry

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i pulled it out of the garage and me and city hunter took it for a ride. i got it side ways coming out of my drive way, I was not use to my dime any more because i have not driven it in a while. when i slid it the steering wheel ripped out of my hands lol. then when i was pulling out of the tigard fred myers i gave it a little to much gas and did a 360. lol it was fun !

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I did a little more painting, pin striping, and new wheels. Got off work yesterday and had the bug I just went to town.

Before:

 

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Painting:

 

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XXR 002: Cause I was told I needed 8inches to have braggin rights

 

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Rising sun:

 

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Rising suns?

 

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I added a double line black pin stripe to seperate the orange and the blue. Brought the lower black line up even with the air dam. Layed out the rising sun that fades from Pumkin Orange, to hugger orange, and hot rod red on the 3 rays towards the front of the hood. pictures dont really do it justice. click on the pictures to see the full size.

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Today I took my L16 altenator and VR out and installed a 98 Pathfinder alt. It went right in using the L motor brackets.....the wiring confused me for a bit but I got it done right :) I hope! The pathfinders alt is under the hood of my dime.....I wish the rest of the truck was.....SOON :)

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I think im going to do what you did with jb weld for a test fit. I'm 5'6 and I like having the seats up a little higher than what you have.

 

my brace across the floorpan is actually missing. do you think I should have some bar stock welded back in, or another brace put in? or does that matter?

 

I do think the piece of sheet metal does a good job at holding the floor pan up, but I doubt it does much for side impact, really. I do think it structurally holds the floor in place under all conditions.

In the Bronze, I attached the front seat mounts to a bar joining the rocker area to the tunnel. In the case of the car pictured above, I didn

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I DROVE mine to work today.

 

I've been trying to figure out a backfiring issue for MONTHS, and it turned out it was all caused by plug wires 2 & 3 being swapped.

 

Now that it's up and running again, my next project is to weld up all the exhaust leaks. I decided to go the DIY route for the exhaust, running a 2.25 exhaust pipe down to a cheapo cherrybomb muffler. Sounds great, except for the exhaust leaks. Also, the exhaust is leaking into the cabin, which is no good.

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