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What did you do to your dime today?


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Got tired of spending more time under the 510 than in it, and finally gave up on the POS Ermish CV axles. They had so much play in the coupler the bolts would back out after 45 minutes of "spirited" driving. Granted that's with 370 rwhp, but shit fire and brimstone what a crappy design. Heard nothing but good things, so replaced them with the Driveshaft Shop's 944 setup. Game on!

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3 hours ago, shaddai said:

This is about as low as I'd want to go - the full tire is still visible front and rear... and it doesn't look like a rally car anymore (not that rally 510's are bad, not at all... just not the look I'm going for here!)

I used to say that... now mines pretty low. I’d go lower in the front of mine but then I can’t turn cause the tires rub to much hahaha

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On 10/25/2020 at 1:16 PM, demo243 said:

 

ok- just went and checked my setups.

 

the only correction I made above is the grounds for the relays. 
 

low beam relay is grounded always to common ground.

 

hi beam ground is run through the selector stalk

 

when highs are turned on via the stalk both Low and highs are on.

 

both my 510 and 620 are h4 bulb converted not that it should make a difference 

Dude lol check the diagram I did on my build thread 

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27 minutes ago, Jsoi510 said:

Dude lol check the diagram I did on my build thread 

Glad to hear you got it figured out!

 

Seems a lot of people are afraid to rewire their cars... but it’s not that bad and is so much nicer with new wires.

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On 11/2/2020 at 10:08 AM, Jsoi510 said:

woke up made a coffee then walked pout to my guard  sat in the driver seat of   the project while I drank my coffee... best way to start a Monday!

I used to set in my project for years thinking about her.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got the head back for the Goon. Have to clean things up and mount the cam towers and cam. Hope all goes good. Then hope to get it on the motor and do any adjustments and finnish mounting everything else up and crank her up. If I get that lucky in the next few days before I go to my folks for Thanksgiving. I'm sure it won't go that fast but I'm not in a hurry. I'll probably be posting asking questions. Also bought a couple cheep spot weld cutters also after reading the post on issues on someone's frame rail.

 

IMG-20201122-102248.jpg

 

So wish me luck I have the book in my device reading it over and over.

Edited by edekalil
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Gonna torque the cam tower bolts today and hope all goes good with the cam being able to turn by hand. If all goes good I'll install it on the motor. Then get everything else put on.

 

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Edited by edekalil
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Head is on motor torqued to 40 ft- lbs and all other parts on in order of how they where took off.  Next when I get back is check a couple things and finnish putting on the intake and exhaust manifolds and other things and then crank her up.

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New owner here and pretty green when it comes to working on cars in general. I’m pretty confident I can learn and for once in my life I’ve got the space and a bit more patience. Due to covid I can’t get into the dmv until January so in the mean time I’m just poking around this car finding things and waiting for a few things to finish (or even really start) a tune up/inspection utilizing YouTube and my chillton manual. Put in a new speedometer cable day before yesterday, put gaskets on tail lights yesterday and discovered I have 2 passenger side tail lights just one is flipped upside down on drivers side. 

In the mail today came my valve cover gasket, I picked one up for an L18 which is what’s in the dime but figured out it has a W58 head, I’m hoping this is the correct gasket?  Can anyone tell me what I can expect as far as compression in this engine? I have a 620 manual too with L18 compression but I just don’t know if this head changes anything 

Also in the mail came some spark plugs and a little gauge I ordered to synchronize my su dual carbs. Also the under grill moulding that was missing came so I decided I would quickly put that on. Started taking off the grill and the 2 bottom bolts were fused into the grill mounts nuts. I ended up cutting those off and patiently spraying/wiggling/ heating up the bolt shanks till they finally freed and I could unscrew the stub with vice grips. I hadn’t realized the nuts were welded onto the back of the mounts but either way, they are crossthreaded and I’m guessing last guy put them in halfway with locktite or something but I just learned about tap&die sets so I’m gonna hit Home Depot and grab some new hardware and a set of those and rethread these. 

Went down a couple rabbit holes today trying to figure out what I have here. I figured a quickie would be to get this tachometer to function correctly, it barely moves, so I read about how that’s working and follow it to the distributor. Seems like a good place to be since I planned on checking my points and rotor.... except, oh yeah, this is an electronic ignition which I know even less about... another thing to figure out. fun stuff tho really, it helps I’m not relying on this car and I’m not out in the cold. I can just get a hair and go out in the garage and fiddle around.   I’m just going to take my time and do my best, try to learn. 

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Made some more progress on designing the top portion of the SSS Center Console that I’m missing. I plan on printing the parts and cleaning them up with some fiber glass and and sanding to a better shape. Hard enough to find these consoles and even harder to find the top parts. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had a fitter turn up to fit my new windscreen rubbers I purchased from Datsport in Australia to replace the 100% rubber seals with the rubbers to accommodate the chrome beading. Front is in, rear to finish next week. Looks much better and is now free from leaks.

 

 

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Edited by Payco
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3 minutes ago, Payco said:

Had a fitter turn up to fit my new windscreen rubbers I purchased from Datsport in Australia to replace the 100% rubber seals with the rubbers to accommodate the chrome beading. Front is in, rear to finish next week. Looks much better and is now free from leaks.

 

 

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Very nice I have to hook up with some local glass people to have them come by to look at doing the same thing when I get the car to that point. You have a very nice Bluebird.

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47 minutes ago, Payco said:

Thanks buddy. Its a tricky job and not one I would personally ever take on having watched them working today.

Yea I saw a video where someone breaks a back windshield so I'd have to have someone who has some knowledge on it

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On 11/22/2020 at 10:35 AM, edekalil said:

Got the head back for the Goon. Have to clean things up and mount the cam towers and cam. Hope all goes good. Then hope to get it on the motor and do any adjustments and finnish mounting everything else up and crank her up. If I get that lucky in the next few days before I go to my folks for Thanksgiving. I'm sure it won't go that fast but I'm not in a hurry. I'll probably be posting asking questions. Also bought a couple cheep spot weld cutters also after reading the post on issues on someone's frame rail.

 

IMG-20201122-102248.jpg

 

So wish me luck I have the book in my device reading it over and over.

 

USe a punch in the center of each spot weld, to give that "pin" a perfect place to seat.  Use any WD40 or other lube generously.  You can "rock" the bit/cutter slightly as you drill in to dig in, but ALWAYS hold on firmly to keep it "centered".  As you drill in, you will see the blade cutting in to the metal..........watch the pattern, so that you drill in as EVENLY as possible (that's where the slight "rocking" of the bit/cutter comes in to play!).  You will use this bit/cutter if doing the front frame rail sides, but you will use a cutoff wheel more for that particular job, as most of the spot welds are on the lower pinch welded horizontal flange.  Good luck!

 

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On 11/30/2020 at 11:31 PM, Rally cars & Dinosaurs said:

New owner here and pretty green when it comes to working on cars in general. I’m pretty confident I can learn and for once in my life I’ve got the space and a bit more patience. Due to covid I can’t get into the dmv until January so in the mean time I’m just poking around this car finding things and waiting for a few things to finish (or even really start) a tune up/inspection utilizing YouTube and my chillton manual. Put in a new speedometer cable day before yesterday, put gaskets on tail lights yesterday and discovered I have 2 passenger side tail lights just one is flipped upside down on drivers side. 

In the mail today came my valve cover gasket, I picked one up for an L18 which is what’s in the dime but figured out it has a W58 head, I’m hoping this is the correct gasket?  Can anyone tell me what I can expect as far as compression in this engine? I have a 620 manual too with L18 compression but I just don’t know if this head changes anything 

Also in the mail came some spark plugs and a little gauge I ordered to synchronize my su dual carbs. Also the under grill moulding that was missing came so I decided I would quickly put that on. Started taking off the grill and the 2 bottom bolts were fused into the grill mounts nuts. I ended up cutting those off and patiently spraying/wiggling/ heating up the bolt shanks till they finally freed and I could unscrew the stub with vice grips. I hadn’t realized the nuts were welded onto the back of the mounts but either way, they are crossthreaded and I’m guessing last guy put them in halfway with locktite or something but I just learned about tap&die sets so I’m gonna hit Home Depot and grab some new hardware and a set of those and rethread these. 

Went down a couple rabbit holes today trying to figure out what I have here. I figured a quickie would be to get this tachometer to function correctly, it barely moves, so I read about how that’s working and follow it to the distributor. Seems like a good place to be since I planned on checking my points and rotor.... except, oh yeah, this is an electronic ignition which I know even less about... another thing to figure out. fun stuff tho really, it helps I’m not relying on this car and I’m not out in the cold. I can just get a hair and go out in the garage and fiddle around.   I’m just going to take my time and do my best, try to learn. 

 

I sent a PM from your WTB ad!  Hmmmmm, only the outer trim is flipped upside down?  Have you looked at the white plastic housing?  ALL of the tail lamp parts are "handed" right & left.  I bet if one part is incorrect, the whole tail lamp is flipped...........??

 

Yes, all 68-80 4cyl L series valve cover gaskets are the same.  All 68-80 valve covers interchange, so if you have a "NISSAN OHC" valce cover on it now, you can find an earlier "DATSUN" valve cover & simply swap them!

 

TJ

 

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3 hours ago, Payco said:

Thanks buddy. Its a tricky job and not one I would personally ever take on having watched them working today.

 

We sub out most of our glass installs, cuz they can be a real pain in the rear AND risk of breakage!  I only recently learned that the Coupe stainless trim is completely different than the Sedan..........looks great! 😎

 

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Thanks, ya, everything on the drivers side tail light was flipped but I have found  another housing and lense but the proper bezel is pretty rusty so I’m just looking for something nicer. 

Adjusted my valves the other night and am waiting on probably the best purchase I think I could make for this car before I continue. I’m waiting for the complete metric hardware set for the old Z cars from Z depot. Everything I touch on this car is old, rusted on, stripped, random, missing, snaps off, etc. After trying to find hardware at my local shops I’m extremely happy Z depot offers this. I’m planning on replacing pretty much every bolt/but/screw I touch on this car

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