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What did you do to your dime today?


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Gave her some running around.

IMG_20190421_130057.jpg

To get anything I needed for my hell ride of putting a water pump on my 07 Camry that was going out it had water weeping from the weep hole.

Edited by edekalil
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Found most if not all of the new parts for the L20B build for the 2 door all apart.

The timing chain components and oil pump and bearings. All look good.

IMG-20201011-130638.jpg

 

Compleat gasket set,rings set,and tower shims all look good. The tower shims may need a slight cleaning other everything looks good. Plus a L16 exhaust/intake gasket I believe can be used on a u67 head.

 

IMG-20201011-130444.jpg

 

Now to get a L20b head gasket for the L16 that is waiting for her head.

 

IMG-20201011-131307.jpg

Edited by edekalil
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  • 2 weeks later...
9 hours ago, Jsoi510 said:

Broke my head trying to understand this wiring 🤯 man EZ WIRING Not so EZ,  but park lights and  license plates brakes are working:)   And tried to get the trunk clean after tucking the wires

13AD42EC-30C2-4CAF-B6D2-0AF373C719B5.jpeg


Once you get rolling it gets easier!

 

if you haven’t done so already print one of these out to cross reference. copied this from zcar 
 

datsun_510_wiring_diagram.png

Break it down simply to power and ground. Worthwhile to update your headlight relays while your at it. Headlights and turn/hazards are the hardest part.

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5 minutes ago, demo243 said:


Once you get rolling it gets easier!

 

if you haven’t done so already print one of these out to cross reference. copied this from zcar 
 

datsun_510_wiring_diagram.png

Break it down simply to power and ground. Worthwhile to update your headlight relays while your at it. Headlights and turn/hazards are the hardest part.

Still got mine from way back I wanted to get several to use as place mats cause they where laminated.

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33 minutes ago, demo243 said:


Once you get rolling it gets easier!

 

if you haven’t done so already print one of these out to cross reference. copied this from zcar 
 

datsun_510_wiring_diagram.png

Break it down simply to power and ground. Worthwhile to update your headlight relays while your at it. Headlights and turn/hazards are the hardest part.

Another note- @Jsoi510

 

since you are redoing all the wiring the stock diagram really isn’t about the colors of what goes to what —- since I’m assuming you already pulled all the stock wires. It’s really about understanding how the system was designed, what splices into what and how the switches work. It helps you redesign the EZ system to match/work for the Datsun system.

 

I found it helped to draw/write out some of the more complicated systems before actually wiring them up.

 

hope that makes sense

Edited by demo243
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9 hours ago, demo243 said:

Another note- @Jsoi510

 

since you are redoing all the wiring the stock diagram really isn’t about the colors of what goes to what —- since I’m assuming you already pulled all the stock wires. It’s really about understanding how the system was designed, what splices into what and how the switches work. It helps you redesign the EZ system to match/work for the Datsun system.

 

I found it helped to draw/write out some of the more complicated systems before actually wiring them up.

 

hope that makes sense

I appreciate the tips, and yeah under the dash will be the hardest and a challenge for. I think what’s confusing is how  I couldn’t match any wires in my stock 510 to any diagrams. Some wires would match others wouldn’t
 

also trying to understand how the system worked with ground  through relay and switch is the hardest part ez is all power to Everything coming out of their fuse box. 
 

But ima do what you said and draw a diagram before actually putting wires together To make it easier and to have it make more  sense. 
 

 

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2 hours ago, Jsoi510 said:

I appreciate the tips, and yeah under the dash will be the hardest and a challenge for. I think what’s confusing is how  I couldn’t match any wires in my stock 510 to any diagrams. Some wires would match others wouldn’t
 

also trying to understand how the system worked with ground  through relay and switch is the hardest part ez is all power to Everything coming out of their fuse box. 
 

But ima do what you said and draw a diagram before actually putting wires together To make it easier and to have it make more  sense. 
 

 

I used American auto wire to wire up my 620 and 510. American auto wires fuse panel had some relays built in, and I added two for the high and low beam headlights.

 

I ended up using the American auto wire headlight switch in both, but kept the stalk for hi/low function. 
 

it’s been over a year since I did the 620 and a few since I did the 510- so unfortunately don’t remember specifics off the top of my head. Both are running aftermarket gauges now too. 
 

if you get stuck on something I can check into how I wired it up on mine.

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Fawwk soooo thats what im missing. I’m trying to make the stock lighting switch work with just the ez wiring, but ez wiring has head light power low beam wire, high beam wire with a “high beam indicator” wire  splicing off it at the spade connector. Which I’m guessing that would be to the high beam indicator blue light on the dash. but I’m going to have to build the relays To be able to switch from lows to highs. I seen the headlight relay  thread somewhere I just need to figure out how to  wire that.  I Haven’t gotten into detail under the dash but do want to wire up the most of the stock dash if possible haven’t  tried yet. once I i get my lights working properly I’m going to tackle  my gauges. 
 

thanks for the advise, greatly appreciated 

of you remember the relay wiring that would help. Either way I will search for it. And hope to find it lol

3 hours ago, demo243 said:

I used American auto wire to wire up my 620 and 510. American auto wires fuse panel had some relays built in, and I added two for the high and low beam headlights.

 

I ended up using the American auto wire headlight switch in both, but kept the stalk for hi/low function. 
 

it’s been over a year since I did the 620 and a few since I did the 510- so unfortunately don’t remember specifics off the top of my head. Both are running aftermarket gauges now too. 
 

if you get stuck on something I can check into how I wired it up on mine.  

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13 hours ago, Jsoi510 said:

Fawwk soooo thats what im missing. I’m trying to make the stock lighting switch work with just the ez wiring, but ez wiring has head light power low beam wire, high beam wire with a “high beam indicator” wire  splicing off it at the spade connector. Which I’m guessing that would be to the high beam indicator blue light on the dash. but I’m going to have to build the relays To be able to switch from lows to highs. I seen the headlight relay  thread somewhere I just need to figure out how to  wire that.  I Haven’t gotten into detail under the dash but do want to wire up the most of the stock dash if possible haven’t  tried yet. once I i get my lights working properly I’m going to tackle  my gauges. 
 

thanks for the advise, greatly appreciated 

of you remember the relay wiring that would help. Either way I will search for it. And hope to find it lol


Ill have to go check this afternoon and see if I can confirm this... but if I remember correctly this should help.

I will preface this with saying both my 620 and my 510 have custom dashes so I didn't need to try to use the stock 510 or 620 headlight switch. With that in mind it was simpler to use the supplied American Autowire headlight switch which was designed to handle the power for the headlights run through it. 

For reference here is the quick schematic for the American Autowire set up (Highway 15) - you may need to open it up in my flickr page to get the full size or google it.

Screen Shot 2020-10-25 at 10.50.07 AM

 

I have this diagram in my 510 build photos--- BUT --- I did NOT wire it up this way --- helps for general idea of how the relays work though.

36953218655_d625acd3ce_b.jpg

 

 

 

So with all that info--- 

From the American Autowire Headlight switch --- 
Park Lights (Brown) went direct to the parking lights with the needed splicing/splits to get to all of them.
Dimmer Feed (Yellow) --- this per American Autowire is supposed to go to their floor mounted dimmer switch for hi/low beam power, but I wanted to use the stock 510/620 stalk, so I ran the yellow feed wire to the new relays as the power from battery (30). 
Crtsy Dome (white) - didnt use since I dont have one.
Gauge lights (grey) - to gauge lights

HL power in from fuse panel (red) - power in from panel

Park power in from panel (orange) - power in from panel

Relay set up- 

 

Post 30 -- Yellow (from AAW light switch on above schematic)- Power from dimmer feed from american autowire switch, split into two wires and run to Post 30 on both relays. 
Post 85 - Ground — low beam relay always grounded to common ground- high beam relay grounded to common ground through hi-beam selector stalk
Post 86 - Power In (generic) - Run to 86 on both relays to provide power for the relays to function --- be sure to run this from a switched power source! If it is run from a always on source it will drain your battery. 

Post 87 - Power out - Run from 87 to their respective bulbs (hi/low) with a split off the high to power the high beam indicator.
Post 87a - not used


Essentially my low beam relay is always on, and power to the lows is supplied through the AAW light switch—high beam headlight relay functions off of a switched ground which is provided by the turn signal/hi-low stalk and the relays have constant power to function. 

As I said I will try to confirm this later this afternoon. 

Edited by demo243
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13 minutes ago, Jsoi510 said:

I appreciate all this gold! Thank you Demo243 will get on this once I’m back home and study what you sent me to understand what work I need to do, 

Happy to help!


Id have to look into the stock light switch diagram a bit more - or maybe someone else can chime in, but if it isn’t capable of handling the power for the headlights run through it you could add a 3rd relay in there — or potentially reuse the stock original one in that spot.

 

Relays essentially let you use a low power switch to turn on and off a high power accessory- if you aren’t familiar with them. They protect the switch and keep you from running to much power through them.

 

Wiring is a bit weird, but overall fairy simple, just need to get in the right mindset hahah.

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1 hour ago, demo243 said:

Happy to help!


Id have to look into the stock light switch diagram a bit more - or maybe someone else can chime in, but if it isn’t capable of handling the power for the headlights run through it you could add a 3rd relay in there — or potentially reuse the stock original one in that spot.

 

Relays essentially let you use a low power switch to turn on and off a high power accessory- if you aren’t familiar with them. They protect the switch and keep you from running to much power through them.

 

Wiring is a bit weird, but overall fairy simple, just need to get in the right mindset hahah.

Just need to take the time to understand what’s going on. Which so far it’s working. And now with the input you gave  it’s given me breathing space to think a bit more clearly on the next part of the electrical. 

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2 hours ago, Jsoi510 said:

Just need to take the time to understand what’s going on. Which so far it’s working. And now with the input you gave  it’s given me breathing space to think a bit more clearly on the next part of the electrical. 

 

ok- just went and checked my setups.

 

the only correction I made above is the grounds for the relays. 
 

low beam relay is grounded always to common ground.

 

hi beam ground is run through the selector stalk

 

when highs are turned on via the stalk both Low and highs are on.

 

both my 510 and 620 are h4 bulb converted not that it should make a difference 

Edited by demo243
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1 hour ago, Payco said:

Looks similar to mine and spot on I would say unless you want a slammed look.

This is about as low as I'd want to go - the full tire is still visible front and rear... and it doesn't look like a rally car anymore (not that rally 510's are bad, not at all... just not the look I'm going for here!)

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