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What did you do to your dime today?

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18" of snow here - no work except keeping the fire going and enjoying the white stuff.

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Not as much as I'd like to, but been trying to read,read and read the book on reassembling  the rebuilt L20B I have when the weather gets warmer. Don't like it when it gets cold down here. And getting on the next phase of cleaning the underside of the car on the rotisserie. Too much money going out the window right now with redoing the waterlines at the house, and just got with my new Dentist since  my old one passed late last year. This new one is all the new school stuff but I guess it will better and my cost for what there gonna do to get me caut up will cost a bit even with ins. But it will all be good after and I really can't complain.  Enough with my rambling. Trying to make room in the garage to collect everything up and start cleaning it up and painting it, you know rear crossmember, diff,front end things and such. I guess that's all for now.

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Not much just fired up the two sedans and goon. And finally found this at Wal Mart.

 

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Edited by edekalil
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Took off the back plate and caliper mount from a spare set of 510 struts to clean and paint and put on to the shortened struts to lower my goon.

 

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Found these consols, one is for an automatic 510 thine is from a 240 z and the other ? They will need some work.

 

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Also my brother came up and got his stuff he left after Katrina so now I have a small bit of space to move these arcade machines out of the garage to the room next door. 

 

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Edited by edekalil
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On 1/15/2020 at 1:11 PM, rosso said:

18" of snow here - no work except keeping the fire going and enjoying the white stuff.

 

Across the way from ya and we are clear of snow, but cold as heck!!  Top-Tip......Shovel or reeeeeeeallllly big hair dryer!!

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Mine is in bits again in the workshop of my friend and car whisperer Shaun Briggs, who is doing stuff I haven't done, can't do ( electricity voodoo ), or have done wrong : ))

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Haven't had much time but got the arcade machine's moved to the next room over and now have to get this shelving tightened up and attached to the wall. Then move some motors and transmission's and have room for an 8 foot bench I've had put together and have it along the wall with some peg board along the back.then get a floor room around tool box and clean up and get my tools in one place. Trying to get the shop easier to work in.

 

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Now with the machines in the other room I put most of a cheep ass bench I had got way back together. So now to move all the L20 B motor parts over away from the work aera the masonry people are coming to do tommorow. Now that the rear cross member is up on some sawhorses I'll have to move forward with some work on it.

 

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Edited by edekalil

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Got the motor (L20B) stuff together over on the bench and put several things on the shelves, now there's nothing where it may get dirty. 

 

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Not sure what this tail light was from.

 

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Edited by edekalil

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So, i finally did some brake line work on my car and this is what I used to flare it. The Flare tool I think originated with Eastwood, but I bought mine through Jegs

The Nickel Copper Brake Line and Stainless fittings came from Amazon

 

The flare tool is super easy to use and makes perfect flares. But, I did learn that with the NICOP line, you can not clean it like a steel tubing. I cleaned it up using the standard techniques, de burr the inside, file the outer edge and then flare. This caused the material to get too thing and caused a weird little crush under the flare. 

Causing the fitting not to sit flush on the flare. I tried it without cleaning and it came out perfect! So, don't clean up this line like regular steel. Just check the flare and clean up then if necessary. 

 

bbender.jpg
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The Nickel Copper offers the advantage of Stainless in that it will not rust, and it is soft like copper, thus it is pretty easy to bend and shape. It is rated up to 6,000 PSI and will handle your braking needs pretty well.

 

bbraeline.jpg
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I had to use both Metric and SAE fittings on my car, the SAE is going into and out of the Wilwood proportioning valve and metric on everything else.

 

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I used a small tubing bender and tube bending pliers from Harbor Freight. Didn't need my old clunky bender from NAPA

 

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Overall I am very happy with this brake line and I would happily use it again. One 25ft roll more than handled the car and I still have some left over. 
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Edited by Jesse C.
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On 3/20/2020 at 2:35 PM, Jesse C. said:

So, i finally did some brake line work on my car and this is what I used to flare it. The Flare tool I think originated with Eastwood, but I bought mine through Jegs

The Nickel Copper Brake Line and Stainless fittings came from Amazon

 

The flare tool is super easy to use and makes perfect flares. But, I did learn that with the NICOP line, you can not clean it like a steel tubing. I cleaned it up using the standard techniques, de burr the inside, file the outer edge and then flare. This caused the material to get too thing and caused a weird little crush under the flare. 

Causing the fitting not to sit flush on the flare. I tried it without cleaning and it came out perfect! So, don't clean up this line like regular steel. Just check the flare and clean up then if necessary. 

 

bbender.jpg
best image service

 

The Nickel Copper offers the advantage of Stainless in that it will not rust, and it is soft like copper, thus it is pretty easy to bend and shape. It is rated up to 6,000 PSI and will handle your braking needs pretty well.

 

bbraeline.jpg
best image service

 

I had to use both Metric and SAE fittings on my car, the SAE is going into and out of the Wilwood proportioning valve and metric on everything else.

 

bbrakemaster.jpg
best image service

 

I used a small tubing bender and tube bending pliers from Harbor Freight. Didn't need my old clunky bender from NAPA

 

bbrakedone.jpg

 

Overall I am very happy with this brake line and I would happily use it again. One 25ft roll more than handled the car and I still have some left over. 
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Beautiful work!  I I heard the nickel  copper  is really nice to work with.  I see you got the nice flare machine too.  

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On 3/19/2020 at 4:38 PM, edekalil said:

 

 

Not sure what this tail light was from.

 

IMG_20200319_144339_5.jpg

 

That is a 1968 Datsun 510 tail light.

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1 hour ago, carterb said:

 

That is a 1968 Datsun 510 tail light.

Well I should have the other side somewhere. Thanks for the info.

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I'm still working on my never ending brake/suspension project upgrading from Coilovers and 200SX single pistons to air and 6 pistons.  Yesterday I got the driver's side (RHD) caliper bracket made and brake setup put together.  Today I should be able to get the shock tube cut down and a spacer cut for underneath the Koni race shocks.

 

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Edited by BrandonS
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On 3/25/2020 at 3:44 AM, BrandonS said:


Beautiful work!  I I heard the nickel  copper  is really nice to work with.  I see you got the nice flare machine too.  

 

Thanks! Yes, the Nickel Copper tubing is really easy to work with, and that flaring tool is a life saver! I know I will not use it too much more again, but, it was worth the price to avoid the aggravation of doing it all manually 

 

Can't wait to see how your Air Bag setup comes out and how it rides. 

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7 hours ago, Jesse C. said:

 

Thanks! Yes, the Nickel Copper tubing is really easy to work with, and that flaring tool is a life saver! I know I will not use it too much more again, but, it was worth the price to avoid the aggravation of doing it all manually 

 

Can't wait to see how your Air Bag setup comes out and how it rides. 

 

Thanks, after seeing yours I'm wondering if I maybe should go with the Nickel Copper.  I got stainless because it's polished, but I'm digging the tinted hue of the nickel copper.  I ordered a pedal setup to go with the brakes and I'm getting worried the world's going to shut down before Summit sends them to me.

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Haven't been able to work on mine, so finally finished up the mini me version.  Not the best job.  First time doing a design, so I have a LOT to learn, but still fun.  Not an exact match to mine (mine isn't shiny, wheels are different and I don't have flares), but it's close enough for fun. 

 

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 Worked on my yellow 510 I sold

was a bad slave cylinder

owner poured brake fluid all over and ruined paint,even on the sss grill which ruined all the paint 

 

Hate to say it the faster I get out of Datsuns the better I save my Sanity

watching good cars go bad with novice mechnics

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On 4/14/2020 at 2:53 AM, banzai510(hainz) said:

 Worked on my yellow 510 I sold

was a bad slave cylinder

owner poured brake fluid all over and ruined paint,even on the sss grill which ruined all the paint 

 

Hate to say it the faster I get out of Datsuns the better I save my Sanity

watching good cars go bad with novice mechnics

 

Keep in mind we all learn on something... I'm very much still learning as I work on mine. It was nice of you to help the new owner; kudos to you.  Not many would do that these days.

Edited by BrandonS

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Different league in mechanics ability Your I’m the upper eclelon way past me

but L motors are vary EZ and a 510 is a simple car. I rate I’m the air cooled VW motors

 

when one turns. cap right to take Master cylinder cap off just scares me.

 

there is a 71 Mercedes 280se in Seattle Craigslist.car is mint but photo shows the distributor out and the mechanical fuel injection loose but he said it together and going good.

 

I know nothing of the mech fuel injectors and how they work and how hard to maintain a car like that when parts are harder to get.I have to say just keep my  beater Datsuns and just say I can’t save them all

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On 4/15/2020 at 9:59 PM, banzai510(hainz) said:

Different league in mechanics ability Your I’m the upper eclelon way past me

but L motors are vary EZ and a 510 is a simple car. I rate I’m the air cooled VW motors

 

when one turns. cap right to take Master cylinder cap off just scares me.

 

there is a 71 Mercedes 280se in Seattle Craigslist.car is mint but photo shows the distributor out and the mechanical fuel injection loose but he said it together and going good.

 

I know nothing of the mech fuel injectors and how they work and how hard to maintain a car like that when parts are harder to get.I have to say just keep my  beater Datsuns and just say I can’t save them all



I hope you didn't take that as a slight towards you.  It was more of me defending someone just starting out with working on vehicles.  Although the compliment is appreciated, in my opinion, I am definitely not in the upper echelons of mechanics.  My instagram feed of 510's and other projects people have is an almost limitless source of Vitamin B-Put-In-My-Place. 


But if you like the Mercedes with the mechanical injectors, just start googling them and learn how they work.  I bet in short order you can figure out how they work and build up a pretty good knowledge basis to work on it.  Maybe you could get it for a steal based on it's current condition. Be careful though, this is also the same logic that I've used to get myself into horribly chosen projects.

 

Oh to stay on topic a little bit.  I scored an AP Suretrac R180 yesterday for $350.  Now that the differential I'll run is no longer up in the air, I can start finalizing the ideas I've had in my head.  I'm short on time today so I just went about getting rough measurements off my rear control arms.  With this I can start drawing out how I'm going to fab the replacements up to handle the air suspension and 4 piston calipers.  Truth be told, I'm also really gunning for getting a set of off-the-shelf CV axles to fit.  I think I have a 90% chance of it working.

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Edited by BrandonS

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