gauge problems

[datsun77]

my gas and temp gauges are not working right the temp hand goes to hot and the gas gauge moves to full.the problem started when i converted my 77 620 alternator to a internal regulated alt,but when i turn on all my accesories at the same time the gauges move back to were they should be, does any body have any ideas?could the alternator be wired wrong?

[banzai510(hainz)]

did you take out the extnal volt reg and use some jumpers to short out the correct wires.

 

otherwise you could have a wondering voltage proplem and the volt reg/temp compensation block cant compensate for that.

 

i think you short out the red/wht wire with the blk/wht

and the yellow with the white wire.

 

 

just make a jumper using a blade male connector and short it in the connector block where the volt reg used to plug in.

 

I have a drawing but Im @ another computer right now

http://datsun510.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=124&size=big&papass=&sort=1 might have to do something with the choke relay as I dont have them and have a IR alternator.

 

here are some ways to do this conversion

Edited July 7, 2009 by banzai510(hainz)

[datsun77]

i have the red/white wire and the black/white wire jumped and it is chareging but when i hook up the yellow and white even with the switch of it clicks a relay on the passenger fender and the relay stays on all the time and gets hot so i had to unhook those.i have looked a several diagrams that show those to wires jumped is it possible that in 77 something was changed

[banzai510(hainz)]

from the Dime Quarterly,

this is for a 510 but assume its close to the same principal on the trucks

But if you have a manual choke I wonder if you can disconnect it?????????

olddatsuns.com has wire diagrams

 

For those '72 and later 510's that use an electric choke. The choke relay was energized up by the voltage that appeared on the "N" terminal of the alternator. To energize correctly, the relay was designed for the lower voltage (about 6 volts) that appeared on o the "N" while the alternator was turning (engine running).

 

You need to REPLACE the choke relay with a 12V item. Use the WL wire (switched on with the ignition) to power the relay coil. Run a power source - with an inline fuse - from the battery through the relay to power the electric choke/idle solenoid (if fitted). This lessons the current flowing through the ignition switch, and powers up the choke heating coil when the ignition is on

[datsun77]

are you saying to un hook the relay and run a new power source to the choke?do i still need to connect the yellow and white wires or are they for the choke?will doing this fix my guages or do i have two separate problems thanks!!

[banzai510(hainz)]

going by the instructions you still need to SHORT the WHITE&YELLOW wires.

 

I say unhook the relay if you have a manual choke.Then WHO Cares

If you have a eleltrical choke go by the instructions I gave from the Dime Quarterly writeup.

Maybe somebody else can chme in on this

 

Untell you get this correct first then I would look at the intrument proplem as you said It happends when you put the IR alternator in there. Maybe it will fix itself when you short out the yellow/white wires.

 

 

PS I have never done this myself, But I did stay at a "Holiday Inn Express" one night!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

The only way to make this ezer is buy the stock ext reg alternator that should have went back in there. But if you have a IR thats what you gave to do.But i now have sidedrafts carbsmanusal chockes on most of my cars and my truck now has a weber DGV but I still run the external volt reg

Edited July 7, 2009 by banzai510(hainz)

[datsun77]

thanls for the help i will try rewiring my alt and choke and see what happens,if i cant solve the problem what kind of alternator and regulator do i need to buy because i want more than 35 amps with the original set up

[datzenmike]

my gas and temp gauges are not working right the temp hand goes to hot and the gas gauge moves to full.the problem started when i converted my 77 620 alternator to a internal regulated alt,but when i turn on all my accesories at the same time the gauges move back to were they should be, does any body have any ideas?could the alternator be wired wrong?

 

The voltage regulator is bad or stuck. It's job is to drop the voltage to about 8 volts. If stuck, full running voltage about 14.3 is on the temp and gas gauges will read high through the senders to ground. The regulator plugs into the back of the instrument cluster. See: http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=6923&highlight=dash+voltage+regulator for testing.

[banzai510(hainz)]

all else fails you could get a 1 ohm ballast resisitor route the choke wire to that, then to the choke coil. Black eleltrcal tape it in the firewall where the wiper motor is to hide it better.

Then adjustt the choke 3 screws to fine tune it.