Jump to content

distributor question


Recommended Posts

i've got a new distributor from nissan motorsports and its single point


and my current dist is electronic when i hooked up the black/white wire and the blue wire to the new dist the black/white started smoking and got real hot when i turned the key on.what needs to be different with the wiring when going from electronic to single point dist.


Link to comment
  • Replies 16
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

the motorsports catalog said something about a quicker advance curve,i've had it for about ten years and my other dist crapped out so...

theres only one spade connector on the resistor and one on the vac advance. 410808031_1424037128_0-1.jpg

Link to comment

Dont connect anything to the one on the vacuum advance diaphragm. Thats a ground point.


EI, one wire goes to signal. Other wire is power for the EI module, which wire is not used with a points distributro.


Points main wire. On the points distributor there is only one wire (aside from ground)

Link to comment

OH Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YOu fucked UP!!!!!!!!!!

That is a SSS L16 distributor.


Make sure the dizzymount is the same as the old one as the timming plate can be offset not giving the correct firing time. The pedastal??????? make sure at TDC the rotor is at plug wire #1.

Far as I know YOu need a L16 dizzy mount for the 10mm hold down bolt to mate up correctly.YOu know where the TANG location is.


By hooking the wires up as you did all you did was short out the battery thru the key switch!!!!!!!!!!!esp with the BLK/BLU


the blk/wht needs to to go to the coil not the points as when the points close it grounds that out to staraight 12volts(as what you did) Point are not ment for straight 12volt /High amps


I bet those points and maybe even the condensor is FUCKED.


thats a point dist and needs a point coil(1.6ohm) and ballast(1.6ohm) or a higher ohmed ballast with the coil(.7ohm) you have. say adding a 2.5 ohm with your coil probaply will work.


I say get a Matchbox like you had and start over again.


I cant believe you didnt blow up a fuse or melted soemthing more.


notice the dizzy mount photos. They say L20 but the left one is a L16 the right one L20 they are offse slightly and might not get the adjustment you need to time ot correctly or even run above idle at all.


will be in later part of my vid




Edited by banzai510(hainz)
Link to comment

OOOOOOPS!!!!! Yes it is an sss L16 dizzy i have a dist clamp that i can lock down anywhere i want. I hope I did'nt mess it up if so I think i've got the service parts that they had available for it.so i dont need to hook either of those to the dist? if not what do i need to do.this blasster resistor is that something i need to install.i guess from this diagram the ground needs to go to the resistor on the dist and thats it?

Edited by 79datsun620
Link to comment

That's not a resistor on the distributor. That's just a terminal block.


You're making a big mistake with this change to points. Irregardless, you're still short parts I'd say.


You need to get a new coil and a resistor block. You CANNOT run a full 12V EI coil through the points- they'll burn up in a hurry (if they're not already fried from you hooking the hot wire to the points). You've probably cooked the condenser as it is, but since the points were likely shut (which is why the power lead got hot) maybe the dead short through the points saved the condenser. It should have blown the ignition fuse.


If the wiring is currently unmolested, you need to:


1) Remove existing coil as it won't work with the points. You need a points-type coil. While it's possible the existing one would work with a huge ballast resistor, it won't work well.


2) Buy a points-type coil AND ballast resistor. They do make coils that combine the functions. It needs to be between 3-4 ohms total (coil plus ballast).


3) The existing wire to the (+) side of the existong coil would go to one side of the ballast resistor.


4) You would have to ADD a wire from the other side of the ballast resistor to the (+) side of the new coil.


5) The (-) side of the coil would need a wire to the terminal block on the points coil. Thre's already a wire there, but you likely fried it with the poor choice if hookups so I wouldn't trust it.


6) I'd run a ground strap to the terminal on the vac advance- straight to a body ground.


Oh, and then regap the plugs for the new weaker spark.

Link to comment

So there is no advantages to having this dist? Why is it the only dist they sell in a motorsports catalog,doesn't make any sence to me.What I will probly do now rather than mulching up my perflectly good wiring harness is try to restore my electronic dist. thanks for the info guys.

Link to comment

no what i was sayin is if i what this sss dizzy i will have to do some wiring ill probly do a resto job on th electronic dizzy like mklotz70 did in the 320 thread.

if i did decide to use the sss where can i get this blaster you speak of and would i need a different coil like datsunaholic said or no.

Link to comment

The points dizzy can be make to work almost as well as an EI dizzy but why? The points one needs the points replaced every 10K miles? Because of contact erosion the timing changes slightly over time so they should be cleaned and gaped every 3-5K and timing checked The EI dizzy does away with all of this maintainance. Set and forget for the life of the motor. Cap, rotor and plugs/wires will still need replacing but that's it!

Link to comment

i had a z with the mallory dual point diz and the only thing about it was it was easily adjusted if you rally want the advance curve of the points diz then get a conversion to ditch the points but allow you to use that diz crane make an affordable set up that works good put it on the z and pertronics makes one that simply replaces the points

Link to comment
I heard there is a resistor that can be used. Anyone tried this?


:confused: doesnt sound like the correct fix.


mine has issues like that too. (MSD box) the only thing i can sugest is to be sure ALL the components are working correctly.

i have a chip in 1 of the rotor contacts that is the likely culprit for mine. havent replaced it yet so i cant confirm that, but its why i have it :D

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.