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Pertronix 1741 Ignitor and 40,000 volt Flamethrower coil

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I want to ditch the points. This looks like a cheap way to go. Do I still use the ballast resistor?

 

I can get both these for $103 delivered.

 

I'd like to replace the Dist cap, plug wires, rotor if someone can reccomend a good set. I'd kind of like to have colored silicone wires.

 

Then it's new plugs!

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yes you must keep the ballast resistor with pertronix, it will melt otherwise, get a coil that is meant for ballast resistors, or a coil with an internal resistance to match, i know msd has one, but never have tried it. also search is your freind, i believe this has come up before to double check what coil to use.

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I hope this is the right coil, as they sell it as a kit for this application.

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If the kit doesn't come with a ballast resistor, and the directions don't show one, then don't use it.

 

But a 40,000 volt coil won't put out 40k volts with a ballast resistor. It's all hype anyways.

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Just keep your stock coil and ballast resisitor. No need for that coil. sve your money.

 

However since you have a L20 distributor you have to remove that ring above the point lube. That means you have to strip the dizzy apart.

 

have you done this bfore????????? As the kit is really for a Hitachi single point L16 distributor. Then its a drop in otherwise the L20b dizzy has to be modded. The Ring above the point lobe must be machine or the Magnet ring will not fit over the ring.

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No, I have not done it. I have a single set of points though.

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No, I have not done it. I have a single set of points though.

i have a the kit with the coil and i brought my diz to a local machine shop and did not have to rip it all apart. buddy just put the whole thing in a lathe and took off the nub!he charged me ten bux and i whent and hooked it up! the instructions that come with the kit say if you use the flamethrower you are to remove the resistor and i did a long time ago and she runs great! there is a plastic cap

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What is this NUB? I was told this was a drop in, maybe I'm wrong.

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I run the Pertronix in the 510, but I hate ballast resistors. As long as you get the correct ohmage of coil, you're fine without it. Here's a write up on mine, doesn't show in the car or anything. It's definitely not rocket science.

 

http://www.mattalbertson.net/pertronix.htm

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You know what????? I dont know what distributor you have since you have a 74 truck. You tell us or show a photo of what you have.

 

pertronix is for a single pouint L16 Hitachi distributor.

It will NOT fit a dual point dist. I say NOT!!!!!!!!

 

But can be made to work in the later single point Mitshibishi and single points Hitachi L20b dizzys.

In my DVD I mention one might be able to chuck it up in a lath and not take it apart if a machine shop can do it that way as mention by Polski

 

here is a L20 conversion removing the RING above the point lobe.PHOTos Below

PS I have had one L20b dizzy the holes would not line up on dizzy correctly. so it could not be converted.

HPIM0255 (2)_thumb.jpg

HPIM0260_thumb.jpg

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Photos I CAN DO! :)

 

dat_920.jpg

 

dat_921.jpg

 

dat_923.jpg

 

dat_924.jpg

 

dat_925.jpg

 

dat_926.jpg

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Yep

Yours is a bolt in for the Pertronix!!!!!!!!!

 

I say installe the Pertronix first with your stock coil and ballast to make sure it works fine. Then if you just got to use the pertronix coil then install it. I hope you got the 3 ohm Pertronix coil as that is what is recommended.

If using that you will route the blk/blu wire also to the +side as with the blk/wht.

 

But for now just do it stock.

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don't know if it's the right coil, but the place I ordered said it was.

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I have this unit on my l18 powered 510 and love it.

My dad was always changing the points on his 510's and got the accel optical setup later on, but as others have said, its not as reliable when dirty or in really dense fog for that matter.

 

If you use the ballast, it seems the spark is way too weak and won't run at idle.

 

I am using a 3 ohm 40,000v accel coil.

I don't think not using the ballast is fine, as the current doesn't go through the pertronix unit, but os more of triggering switch telling the coil when to fire.

I may be wrong, but I have had the ballast bypassed for years with no problems. I even gap the plugs to .040"

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Run the stock coil with ballast!!!!!!!!! = 3.2 ohms this is OK. when in START the blk/blu wire is bypassed and getting double the current to coil as the starter is loading down the circut.

 

if using Pertronix 3 ohm coil you dont need the ballast but best to hook up the blk/blu wire(HOT START WIRE to the + of coil also with the blk/wht wire)

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Part numbers you are here

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=4176

 

 

Here's a 1741 Pertronix on a Hitachi distro

Using a OEM Nissan 12 volt coil ($5 at the JY)

Wired directly to the coil and with the BlackWhite wire to power it.

 

It does say to use resistor if your coil needs it but.....

This is the same setup I use on 3 of my Datsuns

All I know is that it works and has not failed.

 

 

521-sss010.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

521-sss009.jpg

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Yes it is possible. It also exceeds the specs of 1741 and will eventually burn it out unless you use a ballast resistor, reducing the 1.5 ohms down to normal 3 ohms. The Pertronix Ignitor II can handle it but the 1741 cannot.

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I'm glad someone dredged this up. I was thinking of putting in the matched pair, 

Pertronix 91741 Ignitor II + PerTronix 45001 Flame-Thrower II 45,000 Volt 0.6 ohm Coil

into the 510. I thought having the high power coil over the stock coil/balast setup might help smooth out the roughness I get between 6800 and 7100 rpm. Currently, I'm still running points, btw.

 

Any thoughts on other different or better options?

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Better option is 1979-1982 factory matchbox distributor. But the pertronix ignitor 1 works almost as well and is easier to do.

 

Ignitor II was not available for Datsun distributors last year.

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I'm glad someone dredged this up. I was thinking of putting in the matched pair, 

Pertronix 91741 Ignitor II + PerTronix 45001 Flame-Thrower II 45,000 Volt 0.6 ohm Coil

into the 510. I thought having the high power coil over the stock coil/balast setup might help smooth out the roughness I get between 6800 and 7100 rpm. Currently, I'm still running points, btw.

 

Any thoughts on other different or better options?

 

The matchbox and EI coil powers the 280z/zx to 7K. That's 10,500 RPM on a 4 cylinder. Find a good EI matchbox for $100, cheaper and all Nissan. 40,000 volts??? I doubt your 510 will use even 25,000 of that.

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High voltage is only utilized if you gap the plugs wider. Which is why matchbox high energy factory Datsun system can fire a .043 gap, while points are limited to about .035.

 

The roughness you see may be points float. The points & condenser need to be replaced every 12 months.

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bumpin this..... need one for a dual point dizzy. thought mine was right for my 70 510? Looks like mines supposed to be single point and not dual?

 

need help.... Ill take pics of dizzy and bay. L16?

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