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sanding my 510 !

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if the paint your sanding was applied correctly all you really need to do is a light block sanding and the paint should stick good.

80 seem too much also.

Norcal dime is correct on the grit coarseness but then Iam a spray can paint guy .


But I did see the shop that did my yellow car. Most was just block sanding with higher grit sandpaper not to bare metal


I dont think you want to use spray can primer. I heard their is a chemical in there to keep it from sticking to itsselkf otherwise iyt would not come out of the can correctly. ask a paint shop first they might have to sand the primer off again not to use professioanl paint of a spray can primer.


I did a roll bar with primer and they said they had to sand blast it all off. I dont know and took their word for it. So I dont know how true this is.


Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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your going to primer it then paint? or rock primer?


If your gonna rock primer and sand down past those other coats of paint it is gonna rust from the inside out. If the body is straight and you dont have any issues that need to be filled i would just go over it with 320 and get a uniform texture all around and then spray it.


If your gonna black primer it you would be better off rattle bombing it black with some rustoleum.... at least that will seal it up.

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When I did mine I used a razor blade to scrape the old horris spraybomb job the previous owner had on there..


Then got to hand sanding. Started with 140 grit, worked up (or down depending on how you look at it) to 400 grit.




And a little pneumatic sanding in bad spots.. (160 grit round sander)


Primed her..



And finally painted..



My old 1980 210 I hand painted with a foam brush :)



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80 is definitely to coarse. You'll be taking a while to remove the scratches you just made with the 80 grit. If you are actually trying to remove the paint down to the metal, use a chemical stripper.


When I did mine I started with 150, then went to 220, and finally 400. Paint came out mirror smooth after that.

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150 is still too course if you are starting on paint that hasn't previous been destroyed by 80 grit. Wagon is right you will need a pnuematic sander with 150-180 to clean up the 80 grit. For the most part if you want to use primer you only need a good sander with 320. its plenty course. You can cut down the primer starting with 180 and smooth it out 240,320,400,600 and apply your sealer base and clear coat. If you have a SMOOTH surface (previous or factory color)to start with you that you just dont like and want it done quick and inexpensive 800 grit with a soft block will do just fine to lay down sealer or base coat. no problems. Dupont gaurantees for life if you follow the directions it gives you.

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At this point use the 150, go slow and easy so you dont warp anything.... and the paper will last longer too... also make sure you feather the materials out nice (dont dig holes). im not sure what primer you will use but most do fine over 150. Once the primer is on , guide coat it and block it down with 400 and fix whatever flaws show up....

You kinda went crazy with the 80 grit but nothing serious dont worry.


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Ahh, Datsunland Mike

Thought it was NOS dash

I don't see him hoarding rare parts anymore like he use to in ebay.



I got mine 2 months ago for $60

Mint condition, no cracks

Needs cleaning to look like new









If you do buy that dash

Don't forget to buy authentic Nissan NOS 68 tail light assembly










finding an original 68 or 69 crack free dash is really hard, to the right person it may be worth it. At least you can get a cap for the 68 the 69 is not avalible, thats why i went with the z dash and to be differant.




There's always the overlay dash cap, if that's what your referring to.

I did test fit from 68 and 69, fits just fine.

Edited by pl521sss
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