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carb choke


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there is 3 screws.

you loosen the screw then turn the round canister one way or the other to get the choke open or close.


when cold to should be closed and as the car is running it will slowley heat up and the choke plate will start opening.


I personally never can get it just right after i fuck with them. Either is running too much choke after I start driving or not enough. So I went with the manula pull cable type.


Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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I was able to get the one on my weber adjusted pretty well after some trial and error. I set it while cold so that the plate was completely closed with barely any tension on the spring (thermal coil thing). Then I let it run until it was completely warmed up. When the thermal coil got all warmed up, the plate is completely verticle.


I also ended up bypassing the stock choke relay. Mine was dead, and the closest replacement I could find at the parts store was kind of expensive. The guy at Napa told me that he just hooks them up to the alternator stator wire so that whenever the motor is turning, it sends power to the choke actuator. He said all the V8 hotrod guys do this with their Holleys and Edelbrocks. I searched on several hotrod sites, and found this is common practice. Anyone else done this?

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I've thought about switching to manual. When it's warm, the choke is on longer than it needs to be. It's annoying having the motor idling high until the choke turns the high idle cam out of the way. I probably need to turn down my high idle screw a little too, but it would be nice to just open the choke when it's not needed.

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Yeah, I adjusted it several times, and I think it's about as good as I can get it. I meant that when it's really cold outside, you need the choke on for a little while until the engine gets warm enough, but when it's warm weather the choke doesn't need to be on much if at all.


That's why I think the manual is nicer. A person is a smarter than a little coiled up piece of metal.

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