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How do I remove the brake master cylinder?


g-mam

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I need to take the MC off and clean it out. The front Res. has nothing but sludge in it.

 

Do I just remove these two bolts in the back, and the lines?

 

If I have to replace it, do I need a new gasket or something?

 

Thanks.

 

dat_900.jpg

Edited by datzenmike
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First go to SEARs and get a flare nut wrench pack for the 2 lower brake lines.

I think there is 3to5 wrenches in there with various metric sizes. This will keep you from stripping the 10mm flare nuts. JUST TO IT FIRST then youll have this set for life.

then remember its upside down so dont tighten it while you think your trying to loose it!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

when installing it I use antiseize(very little really,really use it to prevent rust also) and install the master loosly on the vaccum canister. you do this to make sure you get the brake lines up inside the master first so you dont x thread the flare nut/master cly. then ones securly on you can tighten everything and start bleeding the system,

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I'll pick a set up today!

 

Is there a way to Back Bleed these brakes? If there is sludge in the lines, I'd like to force it up back into the res. I have a bleader I can back bleed with, but not sure the process, i.e. do I press the pedal 1/2 way to open it and then force the fluid in?

 

Thanks.

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best to have 3 people.

I use a clear long plastic tube into a clear jug.

1 person pumping the brake.

1 person filling resivoir

1 person looking at the tube and bottle make sure nice flow and no airbubbles.once no airbubbles tighten the bleed screw

 

 

work from rear to front. youll pump all the balck stuff out believe me.

 

 

hopefully this works and you dont have a possible bad vacuum canister.Never owned one myself so dont know the system of a bad one. hard brakes ir diapram hole sucking into intake?

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Try just taking them off with a wrench first, you might get lucky, but those nuts look like they are going to be a pain to get off without shredding them to pieces. One thing that I have found to work fairly well is to put the flare wrench over the nut as if you were going to loosen it and smack the back of the wrench with a small hammer as if you were using a chisel. Do this from a couple different angles to try and break the bond of the rust and crap all around (2 or 3 different angles should work) and then spray it with a good penetrating oil and let it sit for a while. then try it again. DONT HIT THEM TOO HARD THEY WILL SHEAR/BREAK!!! Imagine about how hard you would hit a nail to set it)

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HELP!

 

I can't get the lines lose. I have even rounded them a little with the flare wrench. I soaked them with break Free.

 

I assume if you were on the ground looking up, they turn the same righty tighty, lefty loosey, right?

 

My only option is VICE GRIPS, but if these are ruined, I will be screwed (pun intended) ! One like goes to a block, but the other goes down to the RF wheel. Finding replacements would be hard.

 

Should I get my small Vice Grips and try?

 

I guess I could just leave it on, and try to flush the system. I removed and cleaned the resivoir's good.

 

I'd like the option to replace it if need be, as a new one is $89, but this is a show stopper.

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just a quick google and this popped up. The flare tool kits are 25ish dollars. Hope this helps. Oh and in this how-to he uses a dremel to cut the line. They make the proper tool, its a little mini pipe cutter, which also isnt very expensive.

 

http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/flaretool/ft-1.htm

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I've gotten them off with vice grips (BIG vice grips) without having to reflare them, but I probbaly should have because the flarenut sure isn't gonna be any easier the next time.

 

I've also twisted the line to hell trying it too. I've always had to soak them for a while to get really old ones loose.

 

I've learned how to tell when the nut is rounding off and STOP before it does. Also always try using the correct flarenut wrench instead of the "guaranteed to round" open-end wrench.

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i did use vise grips, almost zero damage and the flare nut wrench still fits after.

slow and easy is the way to go, if you get frustrated its time to have a cold one and chill.

an angry guy working on a vehicle tends to really screw things up.

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I decided to ditch the idea of removing the MC, and I cleaned the reservoirs and clamps and put it back together. Filled it with clean fluid and started bleeding from the back.

 

My pumping it up, and me at the rear wheel. Using my Mity-Vac to keep suction on the bleed hose, it was moving like slow lava. At one point I though the lines must be clogged with the sludge. I built up a huge amount of draw on the vaccuum using the Mity-Vac, and all at once "swoosh" some fluid came out.

 

I got both back brakes bled this evening. Will tackle the fronts tomorrow. I have about half pedal now, where it was going to the floor before.

 

Can someone tell me how the reserviors work? I am adding fluid to the front but not the back reservoir. Is this normal? The back one went down slightly, and the fluid in the back one is already looking dirty.

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HELP!

 

I can't get the lines lose. I have even rounded them a little with the flare wrench. I soaked them with break Free.

 

I assume if you were on the ground looking up, they turn the same righty tighty, lefty loosey, right?

 

My only option is VICE GRIPS, but if these are ruined, I will be screwed (pun intended) ! One like goes to a block, but the other goes down to the RF wheel. Finding replacements would be hard.

 

Should I get my small Vice Grips and try?

 

I guess I could just leave it on, and try to flush the system. I removed and cleaned the resivoir's good.

 

I'd like the option to replace it if need be, as a new one is $89, but this is a show stopper.

 

 

yup

was going to say that earlier on your post

too late now

even the use of flare wrench won't be enough in most cases

have great luck on vice grip if you clamp it the right way

too much will squeeze the nut :D:D

not enough clamping will round it off

 

Good luck man

Brake line replacement sucks

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One is for the front brakes the other the rear

 

They mad it this way soe youll have some brakes as the earlier car/truck had onely one resivoir and it a wheel cylinder went bad youll loose all brakes.

The dual res youll at least have one set still working

 

 

So the front res is for the back brakes and vice versa? Strange way to do it.

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So the front res is for the back brakes and vice versa? Strange way to do it.

 

not really. what brakes give you the most stopping power? the fronts. so if the fronts actuate before the rears you WILL stop faster than if the rears went first.

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I got the shiny new MC in. the manual says to disconnect the rod at the pedal. Is this necessary? Or can I just remove the two back bolts and the lines?

 

The new MC has different reserviors.

 

I will bench bleed the new one before install.

 

dat_900.jpg

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the manual says to disconnect the rod at the pedal. Is this necessary?

 

if you have a new rod, connect it (the new) to the to the pedal arm. usually just a cotter pin and rod and accessed while upside down on your back :lol:

 

 

 

too much will squeeze the nut :D:D

 

:eek: dont squish yer nutz!!!

 

 

i have replacement R lines for the sedan now, but didnt when i redid the rear.

no issues with 3(of 4) round nuts (from the PO) so far, but i was careful not to damage anything further.

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if you have a new rod, connect it (the new) to the to the pedal arm. usually just a cotter pin and rod and accessed while upside down on your back :lol:

 

No new pushrod, so no need to disconnect I guess.

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Well the new MC is installed. it swapping it wasn't too bad, but behind it where the rod comes out of the booster, was a white powdery substance that reminded me of when a battery has corroded. I cleaned all that out, and bolted the new MC on after bench bleeding. Bled from the back to the front, and I now have brakes! But I noticed the front reservoir for the rear brakes was leaking where the line goes in. I tightened it, still leaked, tightened it, still leaked. So I gave it the old "F" it if it strips, and went a little more and it's not leaking now. I guess it took some pressure to seat. Maybe that's why they were so hard to get off.

 

I need to replace the shoes and drums. The rear was all gunked up, and the pad looked black and slick. I did't see an leaks in there. I will clean it all up with brake parts cleaner before I start the swap.

 

At least I feel I made progress.

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Well the new MC is installed. it swapping it wasn't too bad, but behind it where the rod comes out of the booster, was a white powdery substance that reminded me of when a battery has corroded. I cleaned all that out, and bolted the new MC on after bench bleeding. Bled from the back to the front, and I now have brakes! But I noticed the front reservoir for the rear brakes was leaking where the line goes in. I tightened it, still leaked, tightened it, still leaked. So I gave it the old "F" it if it strips, and went a little more and it's not leaking now. I guess it took some pressure to seat. Maybe that's why they were so hard to get off.

.

 

keep an eye on it, it may begin to leak again. same thing happened to me, turned out i had a hairline crack on each of the flares. prolly my fault though, from when i changed the master cylinder... :lol:

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