nissan engine ticking

[J'sNISSAN]

I got an abused 90 nissan 2 wheel drive with the KA24E engine.I have done all the work on this truck but now i am stumped. there is a ticking coming from the engine. it corresponds to the engine speed and is more pronounced after the engine is warm. i have removed the rocker arm cover and done a visual inspection of the timing chain and sprockets, cam shaft, and rocker arms. every thing that i can see is in really good shape. any suggestions on where to look would be appreciated

[nis720]

I got an abused 90 nissan 2 wheel drive with the KA24E engine.I have done all the work on this truck but now i am stumped. there is a ticking coming from the engine. it corresponds to the engine speed and is more pronounced after the engine is warm. i have removed the rocker arm cover and done a visual inspection of the timing chain and sprockets, cam shaft, and rocker arms. every thing that i can see is in really good shape. any suggestions on where to look would be appreciated

 

Hydrolic lifters.... they tend to stick and cause this dreaded tick. This is a common thing for the SOHC KA24E. Mine will do it once in a while and eventually go away with some driving.

[J'sNISSAN]

:confused: i have been poking around for a while but still don't really know what i am doing. i am trying to get help

[datzenmike]

The KA24E doesn't have hydraulic lifters. The rocker arm transmits the cam lift directly to the valve.

 

Check and set the valve lash. Probably a loose one. Looking at them won't really tell you much.

 

KA24Es are notorious for chewing up the crappy chain guides. Take a good look at the pass side guide where the tensioner is.

 

 

 

Get a Factory Service Manual ordered from Nissan about $50? You can get by with a cheaper $20 Haynes or Chiltons for most simple tune up specs and repairs. The trouble with Haynes ones are half the book is for other years of the truck, the FSM covers only your year. Pretty much pays for itself the first time you use it.

 

Spend some money on some tools. Always get guaranteed for life ones from a store that is open on Sundays. This way if it breaks on the weekend you can return it and get a new one. Sears Craftsman are good in the States and Canadian Tire in the north.

Edited June 9, 2009 by datzenmike

[N0RCALDIME]

The KA24E doesn't have hydraulic lifters. The rocker arm transmits the cam lift directly to the valve.

 

Check and set the valve lash. Probably a loose one. Looking at them won't really tell you much. [/Quote]

 

Incorrect.

the ka24e hydraulic lifter, also known as a hydraulic tappet or a hydraulic lash adjuster, is a device for maintaining zero valve clearance in an internal combustion engine. Conventional means of adjusting valve actuation always require a small clearance to be left between the valve and its rocker or cam follower to allow for thermal expansion and wear, as it is vital that a valve must never be prevented from closing completely; this rapidly burns it away, especially in the case of the exhaust valve. The hydraulic lifter was designed to ensure that the valvetrain always operates with zero clearance, leading to quieter operation and eliminating the need for periodic adjustment of valve clearance.

 

There are different names for the same thing.

 

The hydraulic lifter consists of a hollow expanding piston situated between the camshaft and valve, either operated by a rocker mechanism or, in the case of double overhead camshafts, directly by the camshaft. It is filled with engine oil intermittently from an oil gallery through a small drilling. When the engine valve is closed, the lifter is free to fill with oil, but when the valve is opening and the lifter is being operated on by the camshaft, the oil feed is blocked and the lifter acts just as a solid one would, oil being nearly incompressible.

[datzenmike]

I bow to your superior knowledge on this. I have never heard them called this but I just recently acquired an E head. On inspection of it I found the rockers had an odd shape and were cross drilled for oil. I thought at the time that they looked rather complex for doing such a simple job. This makes much more sense now. :o good to know.

[J'sNISSAN]

thanks for the info. i'll look into it and let you know what i find out

[ggzilla]

Another cause for ticking, which often sounds just like a bad lifter/follower, it exhaust leak. Look for cracks in the exhaust manifold or bad gasket.

 

To narrow down the problem, put a length of heater hose to your ear, and move it around the engine till you find the exact source.

[yellowdatsun]

Nissan's are notorious for having ticking lifters. Both the VG30 in my 71 510, and the KA24DE in my 98 frontier do it. If you use thicker weight oil like 20-50w it usually solves the problem. The thicker weight oil is just enough to hold a little more pressure in the lifter to keep it from coming disassociated from the cam as it spins around. Try this first, it'll only cost you $15.

[72240z]

Ya Nissans really are prone to it. I have become an expert in dealing with it after owning and working on many vg30de/tt's, KA's, VH's. There are a few solutions for dif causes, hard to tell just by your description.

 

Seafoam is one,

Oil stabilizer is another,

oil weight/brand,

Kerosene flush etc....

 

I would seafoam without even knowing the cause because even if it doesn't solve the problem its going to help the motor.

 

The surefire way no matter what so long as you know its the HL's is to remove, inspect and clean or (if need be) replace them. I'd say its like 3-4 on a 10 scale of skill required.

[J'sNISSAN]

Well i tried the thick oil and replaced the chain guides, which were worn, but the real problem seems to have been the number one exhaust valve.The stem binds in the guide. My repair manual directs me to remove the heads for repairs and leaves me there, so it is time to buy a shop manual and is if i should repair or get a new engine

[sanitys]

Well i tried the thick oil and replaced the chain guides, which were worn, but the real problem seems to have been the number one exhaust valve.The stem binds in the guide. My repair manual directs me to remove the heads for repairs and leaves me there, so it is time to buy a shop manual and is if i should repair or get a new engine

 

valve job, if you get it done somewhere, im guessing 200ish? plus any parts it needs aside from seals. If thats a lowball estimate for your area my bad. I would recommend bringing the head in, and not having a shop removed the head and do the work. Put on a new headgasket while your at it.

 

If you have the tools and feel confident enough to do the valve job by all means, parts shouldnt be too much.

[J'sNISSAN]

:eek: way too busy i plan on rebuilding but i think i will have to wait

[ggzilla]

For a binding exhaust valve, I would take the head off, purchase one valve, and hand-lap it in. I've done it before a couple of times it seems to be permanent fix. You may find something is wrong with the valve guide, but probably it will just clean up.