510 (Wagon) Brake Job

[72wagun]

Nothing really exciting here, but I thought I would snap some pictures as I put new pads and shoes on the wagon (I know, nobody even runs stock brakes anymore right?:D). This is my first time doing brakes on a 510, so experts feel free to chime in.

 

btw, the suspension parts have quite a bit of surface rust, but I'm not worrying about a clean and repaint at the moment. It's likely I'll be lowering the front end eventually, and so some of these parts will probably go away. This is mainly just to avoid rotor to backing plate bad noises in the short term:eek:.

 

Once wheels were off, I started by removing the "Anti Rattle" clip.

 

Next, a little prying pressure to compress the piston.

 

Removed the first pad

 

You could just remove the other pad now, and start reassembling if you plan to leave the rotor as is. If your going to pull the rotor to turn or replace, the next pictures show those steps

 

Remove caliper mounting bolts

 

Swing caliper out of the way

 

Pop dust cover off hub

 

Forgot to take pics of removing hub nut, but it's pretty obvious. Just remove the cotter pin, and take off the nut. Then pull the hub (catch the outer bearing and washer, and put them in a clean place).

 

Remove nuts that hold the rotor onto the hub

 

Your rotor might just come right off, but mine was frozen on pretty badly. All I had for heat was a little propane torch, but it worked great to remove the first rotor. The second one was more stuborn, but it finally came off. I ended up heating the rotor, and pouring cold water on the hub. I also had to smack it quite a bit with a hammer. I tried to hit it only on flat surfaces so I didn't bang up the relatively soft cast hub too badly.

 

Once I got a small seperation between the rotor and hub, I wedged some screw drivers in from opposite side. That did it.

 

 

That's all for now. I realized I should have gotten some front seals, and repacked the front wheel bearings while I was at it. Nobody had them locally, so I had to have Napa order them. They'll be here tomorrow. Unfortunately, I don't know when I'll get back to it. I hate being without my only driving datsun though!

[banzai510(hainz)]

best to order these thing in advance to keep the down time short.

 

NAPA stuff is getting cheap!!!!!mexican and now more Chinese made bearings.

 

If pososibel buy the beck Arney stuff and it should have mad ein Japan like a KOYO or something like that. Thats the best ones.

 

Brembo makes new Disks also but most are fine.As I have run most of them.

 

I dont change bearings unless I really need to but it good you have these process to show us.

 

Mayb if reinstalling them you can show how they are angled brake pads and alot of poel can get confuse how they go in. Some nice close ups

 

PS I still use the stock brakes!!!!!!!!!!

[banzai510(hainz)]

Beck Arnley is the brand.

But even them are more and more Taiwan parts .

 

anything Akebono ,Nabco,Tokico,Astugu,Koyosan, KOYO, Nikki are all good stuff.

[MikeRL411]

Those look to be the Akebono made Lockheed disc brakes. Sometimes, depending on the vendor, the replacement pads don't come with anti squeal shims. If so, reuse the old ones and use the purple disc brake goop between tha shims and the back of the pads. Use an old toothbrush to de-crud the bellows before pushing the piston down and they will last forever, mine are 42 years old.

[72wagun]

best to order these thing in advance to keep the down time short.

 

NAPA stuff is getting cheap!!!!!mexican and now more Chinese made bearings.

 

If pososibel buy the beck Arney stuff and it should have mad ein Japan like a KOYO or something like that. Thats the best ones.

 

Brembo makes new Disks also but most are fine.As I have run most of them.

 

I dont change bearings unless I really need to but it good you have these process to show us.

 

Mayb if reinstalling them you can show how they are angled brake pads and alot of poel can get confuse how they go in. Some nice close ups

 

PS I still use the stock brakes!!!!!!!!!!

 

Yeah, I wish I would have thought of getting seals ahead of time. I was planning to just do a quick pad swap, and slap everything back together for now. But, somehow I couldn't bring myself to just stick the bearings back without cleaning and repacking.

 

I haven't cleaned them yet, but they look pretty good, so I'm not planning to replace them. I'll throw in a few pictures as I do it anyway.

 

I know what you mean about the pads. I thought they were made wrong when I got the new ones. Then I looked in the haynes manual, and saw the pictures of them.

 

I think I'll probably just stick with stock brakes too. It seems parts are still fairly easy to get online.

 

Beck Arnley is the brand.

But even them are more and more Taiwan parts .

 

anything Akebono ,Nabco,Tokico,Astugu,Koyosan, KOYO, Nikki are all good stuff.

 

Not sure what brand the seals I ordered will be:( Oh well. I think I'm going to go ahead and get some new rotors too. The auto parts store that I was going to have turn them said they were warped .020 so they can't turn them. They've never vibrated or anything when I use them though:confused:

 

Those look to be the Akebono made Lockheed disc brakes. Sometimes, depending on the vendor, the replacement pads don't come with anti squeal shims. If so, reuse the old ones and use the purple disc brake goop between tha shims and the back of the pads. Use an old toothbrush to de-crud the bellows before pushing the piston down and they will last forever, mine are 42 years old.

 

I didn't find any shims behind the pads. Just metal to metal, and nothing with the new ones. Can you buy the shims? I'll put some of that "brake quit" stuff on the backs though. Is that the stuff you mean?

 

I already compressed the piston some, but I'll clean things up before I compress it to put in the new thicker pads. Thanks for the tip!

[banzai510(hainz)]

all the 510s I ever had never had shims.

Just put the grease in back

 

these guys have brembos for stock 510 and Z cars and NGK wire sets

[banzai510(hainz)]

crap here it is

http://www.importrp.com/search.php?mode=search

[MikeRL411]

Brake Quiet is the stuff to use. RockAuto used to list the anti squeal shims on their site, if no longer available, go with the goop alone. The advantage of the shims is that you goop between the shim and the backing plate and then around the piston to shim surface. Works real well! Shims were standard on the RL411 calipers and came with all the replacement sets I have bought up to 5 years ago. I had to order 510 pads because the parts stores couldn't believe that 411s ever had disc brakes.

[datzenmike]

Anti rattle clip from Nissan (over $8 each ouch!)

RH 41086 22000

LH 41087 22000

[Buzzbomb]

Thanks for posting the pics and the tips in this thread! I'm getting ready to put some new pads on my 720, and searched here for a similar thread but couldn't find one. I'm sure the pads/yoke are different to a degree, but they are probably more similar than different, so this thread will help me too..The pads I bought were Raybestos, and didn't come with any shims, but I'm pretty sure I have them to reuse.

 

:cool:

[72wagun]

these guys have brembos for stock 510 and Z cars and NGK wire sets

 

Doh! I can't believe I didn't read this more carefully. I just ordered new rotors off RockAuto. I just noticed the link has the Brembos if you search. $27!!!

 

Brake Quiet is the stuff to use...

 

I remember using Brake Quiet a long time ago to try to get my brakes to quit squeaking. The solution ended up being better quality pads. I'll put some on though.

 

Anti rattle clip from Nissan (over $8 each ouch!)

RH 41086 22000

LH 41087 22000

 

Yeah, be careful with them I guess. Not as bad as some old datsun parts though :)

 

Thanks for posting the pics and the tips in this thread! I'm getting ready to put some new pads on my 720, and searched here for a similar thread but couldn't find one. I'm sure the pads/yoke are different to a degree, but they are probably more similar than different, so this thread will help me too..The pads I bought were Raybestos, and didn't come with any shims, but I'm pretty sure I have them to reuse.

 

:cool:

 

Hope it's helpful. I plan to put it back together when I get my rotors. I had a slight detour trying to decide if I was going to upgrade brakes to 280zx or not. I'm going to stay stock for now.

[72wagun]

Well, I ended up finishing this the night before Canby. My dad came by to help, and we were up till 2AM. I didn't think I would drive the wagon, but decided to at the last minute.

 

Anyway, here are some pictures to finish this up. I didn't take pictures of everything because I was kind of in a hurry. I know this is pretty standard stuff for most people here, but maybe it will help someone down the road.

 

Here is the correct front seal:

 

I Got some new rotors, and decided to paint them with some high heat header paint (we'll see how it holds up):

 

I decided to sandblast and Paint the hubs while they were apart:

 

I took some pictures of packing the bearings, but this thread is already kind of going beyond the original description, so I'll skip those.

 

I did get a few shots that may be helpful when putting things back together. I had to look at the pictures in my manual and do some double checking before I was sure I had it right.

 

Here you can see the little springs that hold the piston in. I found they go back in easier if you feed the long end of the spring through the hole first.

 

At this point I gave up on cleaning and painting everything. We were just trying to get everything back together.

 

 

 

This one shoes the angle that the pads mount into the caliper.

 

Tightened up bearings, and installed cotter pin.

 

Rear Brakes:

 

I don't have any pics of the rear brakes. My dad did them while I finished the front. He came up with this idea to adjust the rear brakes though. It's a 7mm box end slipped onto a 1/4" drive extension. Worked good, and didn't slip on the adjustment shaft.

 

 

Some other things on the rear brakes. If your car has been sitting for a while, free up the adjustment shafts BEFORE you put the new shoes on. we didn't :rolleyes: Also, You may need to back off the E brake cable to be able to adjust the rears. I had to back mine off quite a bit.

[dimedriver]

Sorry to wake this thread up. But I think you should also go over the axle spindle nut tightening procedure.

 

I think its something along the lines of:

 

1- Torque to 10 foot/lbs.

2- Turn hub around a few times.

3- Retorque to 10 foot/lbs.

4- place nut retainer on aline with cotter pin hole.

5- install NEW cotter pin.

 

 

-Avery

[banzai510(hainz)]

excellent write up and photos

should be used a sa sticky on Olddatsuns.com

[72wagun]

Sorry to wake this thread up. But I think you should also go over the axle spindle nut tightening procedure. ...

 

Hey, thanks for the additional information. I added the last part a while after I did it, and I left out some things.

 

I looked in my Haynes book, and it says 21.7 - 25.3 ft lb, turn the hub, recheck torque (at upper end of range), and then back the hub nut off 1/4 turn.

 

Your method sounds like it might get about the same results when compared to 25 ft lb backed off 1/4 turn.

 

excellent write up and photos

should be used a sa sticky on Olddatsuns.com

 

Thanks Hainz. Hopefully it helps someone.

[banzai510(hainz)]

alot of new owners get confused on 510 brake pads as they are angled and take awhile to figure it out.

 

one guy had one side with 2 pads exacly the same and he couldnt figure it out that it was packed wrong!!!!!!!!!!! took it back then figured it out.

[MikeRL411]

alot of new owners get confused on 510 brake pads as they are angled and take awhile to figure it out.

 

one guy had one side with 2 pads exacly the same and he couldnt figure it out that it was packed wrong!!!!!!!!!!! took it back then figured it out.

 

Even my son's instructor at El Camino College [LA area] didn't know that Lockheed Disc Brakes have tapered shoes! He thought that there were only Bendix and Teves calipers.