motavated Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 Its been months that my webers linkage gets stuck! And its driving me crazy! I was looking for a used weber to build a good one out of the two but I cant find one. So here is the story. Weber 32/36 electric choke. It idles at 850 and when i drive her for 10 minutes the primary gets stuck open and then it idles at 2000 rpm. It starts to jerk around and bog at high rpms and my MPG suffers greatly. I pull over and I press the linkage with my finger down. I have to force the linkage down, but once it sits. The pressure goes away and the linkage feels smooth again! I drive it for 10 more minutes and it gets stuck again... Over and over again I have to do this... F'n annoying... Can any one help? Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 the weber on my 73 is doing the same thing. i just went overboard on the return springs. now it is a royla pin to press the gas BUT it doesn't stick anymore, but then again my choke doesn't either.... Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 That happened to me too! I added an extra return spring. Drilled a little hole in the top of the filter cover to hook one end of the spring and stretched the other end of the spring down to one of the little holes on the linkage lever. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted May 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 I was planning that but wouldn't it mess up the shaft faster? I guess I will have too break her open. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 Two things that i have seen cause this. First one is the nut on the end of the throttle shaft is over tightened. This causes the throttle plate to bind inside the bore. This why they come with the locking tab washer. I like to replace that locking tab washer with a nylock nut. 6 x 1.00mm IIRC. Second thing that i have seen cause this same problem is the return spring mounted in a manner that doesnt allow it to pull the shaft all the way closed. Sometimes it will pull the throttle cable arm closed, but not the shaft because of problem number one above. If the throttle cable cam(620) is tight to the shaft and doesnt wiggle a little, then the nut is overtightened. Finger tight on the nut is about all that you get and then you have to rely on the tab washer to hold it. Normal lockwasher will not work here and will cause you problems. There is a better explanation of this problem at http://www.racetep.com IIRC Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted May 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 (edited) Two things that i have seen cause this. First one is the nut on the end of the throttle shaft is over tightened. This causes the throttle plate to bind inside the bore. This why they come with the locking tab washer. I like to replace that locking tab washer with a nylock nut. 6 x 1.00mm IIRC. Second thing that i have seen cause this same problem is the return spring mounted in a manner that doesnt allow it to pull the shaft all the way closed. Sometimes it will pull the throttle cable arm closed, but not the shaft because of problem number one above. If the throttle cable cam(620) is tight to the shaft and doesnt wiggle a little, then the nut is overtightened. Finger tight on the nut is about all that you get and then you have to rely on the tab washer to hold it. Normal lockwasher will not work here and will cause you problems. There is a better explanation of this problem at http://www.racetep.com IIRC Ohhh! I used a pressure washer and tightened it tight!.... Big no no? Thanks man your a life saver! That's were I bought my weber new from. I was going to take it off and toss it at there business cus I was so frustraed! Ahhh.... I'm calming down already.... Edited May 30, 2009 by Motavated Quote Link to comment
Buzzbomb Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 Where are you guys getting your throttle return springs? From Jegs or Summit for V8's? Those things are BIG :eek: . I have a similar problem on my Hi-Tachi secondary. If I floor it, the secondary linkage stays high enough to raise the idle to about 1500 RPM. Since it's connected to the primary linkage in that when the primary is closed, the secondary should be closed, I thought another return spring might be a good thing to try to force it to snap all the way shut.. Not trying to hijack the thread, just trying to getting a little more info on the return spring suggestion :) Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 Heh... I used the spring from the side of a desk lamp. And stretched it to a hole on the top of the air cleaner that I had drilled. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted May 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 Ho Ho! That is so Ratsun! :cool: Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Did you fix it by proper tightening of the shaft nut? Another thing that cuases it is a homemade rebuild. People love to totally disassemble the carb including remove that throttle plates. If you get the plates back on wrong, off center by just touch, they'll stick. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted May 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Adjusted the nut and blasted it with wd-40. I will tell you whats up in a while. Thanks! Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted May 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Drove it for a while and didn't get stuck once. Thanks! I just saved me some money. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Like to hear a Datsun success story. Good work. Quote Link to comment
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