issues with 510 l16

[datsunfish]

I recently blew the head gasket in my 510. I decided to fix it and see how it went. I decided to use a 210 head since its an auto and I wanted a little more torque rather than top end. I also decided to throw in a l20b cam.

My first issue is the old l16 setup. There is only a single pointer tab on the block and 5 notches in the crank pulley. figured it would be the reverse for timing verses the tab with 5 lines and 1 notch on the pulley. Am I correct in assuming that the first notch is 20 degree when at the pointer? Also when adjusting the cam chain pulley you cant see the v notch from the front like on the later ones. It sits behind the spoke except for when set on 1.

I had this head on my 510 originally and had some issues getting it going until I put on a w53. I also had problems with it on my 620 with a l18. Both times it would foul and ruin plugs. I figured it was something else but now I cant get it to stay running smooth again and pulled the plugs and they were BLACK as hell. Why would a head on its stock motor or any motor foul out plugs so bad? I have tried webers and original hitachis and it doesnt matter. I even run a matchbox 8mm wires and a msd coil.

Comrpression test showed #1@ 105 #2@ 90 #3@ 110 and #4@ 100. Not the best but it should do ok.

[DISLEXICDIME]

bad valve stem seals will cause the black plugs . look at where it says nissan on the side of the head are the letters only half way there? if so some one decked the head to much and now your timing is off because they didnot shim the cam towers. At least that is what happened to my cousins l16

Edited May 29, 2009 by DISLEXICDIME

[datsunfish]

Old model with 210 stamp on the front and it hasnt been shaved much.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Datsunfisch

Those comp #s are Low. all I can say is ck valvelash on that but highly dought it.

 

Yes using the old L16 pointer on front cover you need to use the l16 crank pull with the 5 marks. Yes the right side will be the BTDC. Im my vid youll sell I go 20 15 10 then up to Zero.

 

As for the Cam sprocket there was a USA made sprocket that will have 3 HOLES that you look thru. The Jap ones will have 4 holes and each hole behind it you will be able to see the V behind it. For some reason they did not do that to these sprockets. These are sold under Melling or Cloyes. I would avoid these. But will work. I guess you woul go by a Jap chain with the brite link and assume its good.

If you use a Jap spocket you will not have these proplem that why i always reccommend the jap spec stuff.

 

 

As for 8mm wires . It really means more insulation so they dont arch sparks to the otherwire as they wear out.

 

 

If head is milled you could get away with advancing the cam up 2 or to #3. and see wear it comes out.

 

If possible get new valve stem seals. But maybe since it a old L16 with soft seats those are worn out. But its hard to really now for sure. But stem seal are cheap from Schucks.

 

 

hope this helps