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'74 Front Drum Removal


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The service manual states:


In order to ease operation, remove hub assembly from knuckle spindle (Refer to FRONT AXLE)


Is this really necessary to change pads or remove drums?


BTW, this has 58k miles on it. Is it worth trying to get these drums turned?

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Not for just drum removal.


Turn the adjuster back to retract the shoes. If you look at the drum there are two small threaded holes one across from the other. Get a pair of suitable bolts (12mm heads) and screw them in. They will bottom out against the hub and as you keep turning will push the drum toward you and off.


Brake shoes MUST be loose and not caught againse drum insides.


Mileage isn't a factor on drum replacement, wear is. Drums can only be turned down to a certain thickness and still preserve their strength and thermal inertia.

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Mileage isn't a factor on drum replacement, wear is. Drums can only be turned down to a certain thickness and still preserve their strength and thermal inertia.


Should the people turning the drums be able to determine this?

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Looks like I can get front and rear shoes for $30, and Drums for $28.7 each if I need them.


I got a Haynes manual for $5 shipped used from Amazon, and it's in great condition, and I even found a Chilton's manual for $5.


I plan to put her in the garage this week and start assessing what I need. The sludge in the front brake reservoir has be the most concerned. The leaking fuel tank has to be fixed also.

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The jack bolt holes Mike is refering to should be either an M6x1.00xlength(10mm and up) or M8x1.25x10mm and up.


Did the 620's have the countersunk phillips screws holding the drums on?


Factory manuals are at http://www.olddatsuns.com/620tech.htm

I used the tailgate bolts [12 mm] to insert into the drum for removal. I didnt see the countersunk phillips screws on mine, just the 2 threaded holes.

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12mm is the head size and is misleading. Typically, M6 has a 10mm head size and M8 has a 13mm. The 12mm head could be either depending on the manufacture. Tailgate bolt is perfect for clarification....he can use it or take it as a sample to the hardware store. If he goes in asking for a 12mm head.....they're going to look at him a bit funny. :)


Personally...I'd just take the spindle nut off and pull the entire hub with the drum if the drum doesn't come off easily.

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I did the brakes on my 74 last weekend and the brakes on my brothers 73 the weekend before that... Neither one had the threaded screw holes for removing the drum and neither one had the countersunk screws holding them on. Im thinking its a later model 620 thing My 76 KC has them, as well as the 75? I think that we grabbed new/used drums from... $16 bucks for both with shoes that had as much meat on them or more than new/rebuilt ones.:)


To get the drums off on the 73 I had to turn the screw all the way in and pull the spindle nut holding the hub on. The shoes were catching in a nasty ridge and by pulling the nut I had enough play to yank the drum/hub off. Damn near threw my back out in the process...


On my 74 the drum didnt have a ridge, loosened the adjuster and they slid right off... cake job... keep your fingers crossed.


Just in case youre wondering you want to turn the adjuster so that the wheel is turning down to loosen it up, its reverse thread.


If your truck has that low of mileage and its been sitting for a while, this would be a good time to repack the front bearings with some fresh grease as a precautionary measure... It wont hurt it and only takes a few minutes.


If youre replacing the brakes make sure to check the brake cylinders. NAPA sells rebuild kits for the fronts for less than $5 a piece. Theyre easier to rebuild on the truck than they are to replace just make sure the inside of the cylinder is SPOTLESS clean and perfectly smooth. I used 1200 grit sandpaper very lightly to sand the rust and crap out, works great, and probably a better product than a reman unit youll get from a parts store. A "bottle brush" hone works good too, stay away from the "block hones" they seem to take too much meat off or something, I never have any luck with them, 1200 or higher grit sandpaper is cheaper than either one by a long shot and it works just as good.


Your truck looks pretty good but Ive got to ask... Did your Grandma make that seat cover? :lol: Id keep it just because.


Good luck with the brakes and if you find a source for OEM passenger side mirrors, pass on the info.

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Nissan dealer. I bought a 1972 passenger side mirror this winter from Nissan. Less expensive than eBay.

Also. some replacement drums do not have the threaded holes mentioned. ez fix. measure approx 2 out from the center hole (hub) on either side. drill and tap a hole...(at this point the size is up to you...) you could use a 1/4-20 tap if ya wanted to. this is just a threaded hole for ease of drum removal...................been there done that

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