72240z Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 (edited) Haynes is wrong then or maybe its the years I was checking. I should know better then to use it though. :-/ Had to look it up when I was trying to swap the vg30e efi into my vg30i and it showed maxima has some different pin outs. Glad it it worked for you. Edited May 25, 2009 by 72240z Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 Actually, you don't need a turbo ecu. Just use any Z31 ecu except the 89 turbo. The 89 turbo is a better ecu, but uses a totally different O2 sensor. I'm currently running an 85 non turbo ecu in my 81 ZX turbo, and it runs beautifully. The non turbo ones will run the car a little rich, but that's about it. Plus, the non turbo ones are a dime a dozen, where everyone wants a lot of money for the turbo ones. So especially if you have the chance of blowing another one, definitely use the cheaper no turbo unit. 87-89 turbos use a different o2 as does 86 turbo, its a titania sensor. 88-89 ecu's use a different pinout than any of the others as do SOME 87's. Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 Only the 89 turbo uses the Titania O2 sensor, all the others are the same. I could be wrong, but just recently had to research all this crap for my 280ZXT. Also the 89 Turbo ECU plugs into the early harness, and works just fine, as long as you don't use the O2 sensor. I was using the 89 turbo ecu in my 280ZXT for a short bit. So I'm not sure what the differences are with the pinouts, but an 89 turbo and the 84-86 turbo/NA ECU's all work together the same in the same car. Quote Link to comment
240ADAM Posted May 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 I still don't know if it will run with the maxima one, but its farther than I've got with the other ones. I'll take some pics for everyone so you can see what I'm workin on. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 Well at the very least you know it was the ecu causing the prob. Should be all down hill now. Quote Link to comment
240ADAM Posted May 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 ITS ALIVE!!!! So I got a turbo ECU off some guy on craigslist for 50 bucks and like I said before its alive. I had a couple plug wires mixed up at first, but after I fixed that it fired right up and purred like a kitten. Now the finishing touches so I can drive it. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 Nice man, congrats :-). Work out those bugs early! Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 Nice!!! Can't wait to go for a ride :D Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 sweet! sounds easy now. :) Quote Link to comment
240ADAM Posted May 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 So I've driven my car around several times now. I runs really good and pulls hard, although I haven't smashed on it that hard yet the motor needs to break in before I really get on it. It does have little bits of hesatation right before it boosts, but I still havent timed it or adjusted the TPS. So hopefully that will smooth things out a bit. :D Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 Before you start tweaking anything, buy yourself a air/fuel gauge. Even a normal Autometer one for $60 is fine. Not only will it give you an idea of how rich/lean you are, but can also help tremendously in finding problems. On my 280ZXT I had a slight surging issue, my idle would hiccup, and there was a little bog off idle. After installing the A/F gauge I could see that my engine was actually going back and forth between rich and lean, about once a second. Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 After installing the A/F gauge I could see that my engine was actually going back and forth between rich and lean, about once a second. That is normal. That is what you can expect from a single wire O2 setup. Its not all that accurate anyway. Under WOT it'll hold more steady and give you an idea of when it starts to lean out. The 1988-89 300ZX 3 wire wideband is far more accurate. Did you do something to fix the lean to rich condition? Quote Link to comment
240ADAM Posted May 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 Any of you's know what I should time this at, since I'm running the Z31 stuff is it any different than a stock one? Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 As soon as I threw in the Z31 maf and ecu all my hesitations and lean/rich conditions went away. The Z31 stuff holds perfectly steady all the time. I had tried 3 280ZXT ecu's, and 3 turbo 280ZXT afm's, along with numerous other things, and nothing else worked. 240adam I would think normal 280ZXT timing would be fine. Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 I'm still having issues with my turbo Z. I may just skip right to my 1988 turbo ECU instead of troubleshooting further. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Ya after reading this and other threads I think I'm not even going s130 efi at all and just try and jump to z31. Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Yep, after doing a crapload of troubleshooting and repairs I just gave up on the s130 efi. I would highly recommend using the Z31 stuff. Even though the 280ZXT and Z31 systems are very similar, the Z31 system is WAY, WAY less temperamental than the S130 stuff. You can disconnect all kinds of pieces from the Z31 setup and the ECU just doesn't care. That's not the case with the S130 setup. One little thing can send the S130 ecu into fits. The only things you really need working on the Z31 setup is the maf, ecu, tps, and cas. If you want you can get rid of the air regulator, idle solenoid, and it even runs very well without the O2 sensor. The VG30 in my 510, and many other guys, run without the O2 sensor and they run just fine. The maf in these setups do an excellent job of metering the air. Quote Link to comment
240ADAM Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 So I've been driving my car for a few days and it runs good, but after it gets warm and I stop some where and shut it off then try to start it again it will miss on a couple cylinders for a little while untill I get going and it clears out. I felt the fuel rail and its pretty damn hot. I'm thinking vapor lock? Is this common for everything to get really hot since its turbo now? Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 (edited) So I've been driving my car for a few days and it runs good, but after it gets warm and I stop some where and shut it off then try to start it again it will miss on a couple cylinders for a little while untill I get going and it clears out. I felt the fuel rail and its pretty damn hot. I'm thinking vapor lock? Is this common for everything to get really hot since its turbo now? Well vapor lock was always a prob that's why nissan added those little fan assemblies. The z31s retained them too. Not saying that's your issue but it was certainly A issue. People seem to be complacent with turbos running hotter but I disagree, a turbo motor should run the same temp, ideally anyway. I would double check your cooling system and fuel pressure. Low fuel pressure makes you more susceptible to it. If things are really getting that hot you could heat wrap your mani and DP, throw a heat blanket on the turbo. That works wonders. Edited June 1, 2009 by 72240z Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 I took off the cooling fan and never had that issue, but my 280ZX had the factory vents in it. It would release a lot of hot air once you turn the engine off. Your 240Z has a nice closed up hood. Quote Link to comment
das280zx Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 I have never had any hot starting issues. It could very well be vapor lock and as bleach said, maybe your hood isn't vented enough. Are your injectors 100% functional? I know the ones I had in my donor turbo were all f-ed up and I had to have them cleaned. I don't think a single one of them worked properly. I am excited that you got the z31 ecu working pretty good. Makes me want to switch to that now. As far as timing goes, I don't know! Ha ha, what a help I am! But seriously, I don't think you can change it all that much. Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Here in Arizona vapor lock is a big problem. The injector cooling fan on my 280ZXT doesn't work, and even with the huge hood vents, if I sit stopped in traffic for a while the car will start to stutter. If get's progressively worse until you get some air moving through the engine bay by driving. I don't drive it daily, and especially not in rush hour traffic, so it's not a big problem, but it does happen. I also converted a 71' 510 wagon to run on efi and that car had the same problem, but worse since there was no hood vents. As long as it's moving it's fine in the summer, but get stopped for long and it had issues. I'd bet money that's your problem. Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Also be careful of the heat wrap stuff. The metal get's so hot under the wrap that it actually starts to crystalize. Happened to me on a set of headers, and they ended up being useless after a couple years of the wrap. Having things ceramic coated is a far batter solution. Looks better, keeps the heat way down, and lasts nearly forever. Quote Link to comment
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