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Ran the 1/8th mile with the 510...


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My best and last run of the night, .042 N2O jet, 205-50-15 falken 512's set at 30 psi. Wheel hop/chatter for the first 15-20 feet (after the chatter stopped I started to spray). Second gear immediate spray (tires broke loose for a bit, the wrx driver I was racing said he could see the car get a little sideways). Third gear immediate spray, went through the traps at about 6000 rpm's. I think improvements could be made with:

 

A. Install a WOT switch so I dont have to concentrate on the activation button.

B. Use a stickier or wider tire (getting out of the hole was hairy with a 205 width street tire)

C. More nitrous (going from a .040 jet to a .042 jet shaved .3 of a second (8.8 to a 8.5) off my ET. Im sure some of it was how I drove the last time, but in general the car "felt" a lot faster.

 

Reaction - 0.348

60 - 2.157

330 - 5.660

ET - 8.586

MPH - 84.76

 

Here's a 1/8th mile to 1/4 mile conversion chart:

http://www.fl-thirdgen.org/quartermileconversion.html

 

If I can shave another 2-3 tenths (very possible with the improvement ideas above) I will be knocking down 12's in the 1/4...not bad for an autocross/roadrace setup :)

 

Modifications:

Bone stock VG30 (no cams, no headers, no internal, or external modifications less a cheap civic intake pipe and a cut out in the exhaust system)

 

NOS universal dry kit with .042 jet

 

TEC3 engine management

 

-cjr198car

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1/8 to 1/4 conversion charts aren't even close in my experience. You'll be running 12's when you actually run 12's in the 1/4. I'm not trying to be mean or anything I hope you run 12's.

 

Just guessing you can run 12's with w/e mod or improvement having not a single real 1/4 time to work off is like pissing in the wind.

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Just wanted to share info. SSSr20det do have your time slip (I would be interested in the 60 foot, 330, and mph). I know a conversion chart is not always accurate, but I thought it may be a good gauge for guys that only know 1/4 mile times vs 1/8 mile times. If anyone has any old time slips with hard times that would be a good comparison for me. Thanks!

Edited by cjr198car
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I dont this was years ago, I know the 60 ft time was real good i think 1.48?? mph was 94 mph i think, It came out of the whole real good but top end was not there I remember i raced a pinto that had a v8 and slicks and beat him till i hit third then he blew by me.

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the 60 foot sounds way too fast (cars with slicks run those type of 60 foots and you mentioned you were losing traction). The 94 mph sounds like a 1/4 mile trap (if that was an 1/8th you would be running much lower ET's). It would be fun if anyone had a few time slips to post.

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Heres a fellow 510 owner (David Lum). These are his times:

 

1/4 Mile ET: 12.782

1/4 Mile MPH: 113.990

1/8 Mile ET: 8.491

1/8 Mile MPH: 89.270

0-60 Foot ET: 2.167

 

These are my times:

 

Reaction - 0.348

60 - 2.157

330 - 5.660

ET - 8.586

MPH - 84.76

 

http://www.dragtimes.com/Datsun-510-Timeslip-12786.html

 

I saw this car in person at shasta in 2003 (i believe) and can tell you his VG30DETT is atleast a 100-200 hundred pounds heavier than my VG30 (turbos, intercoolers, piping add up fast in the weight department).

 

I stand by my first post and will be going for 12's when I get to the 1/4.

 

sssr20det, I think you may have ran a 9.4 in the 1/8 and a 14.2 in the 1/4.

Edited by cjr198car
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100lbs = 1/10 of a second in the 1/4

That 2/10sec is pretty inconsequential when compared to the nearly double hp/tq he puts down over your "lighter" motor.

 

Again you can't just guess, comparing someones actual 1/4 to your 1/8 is meaningless.

I'd love to hear you do it but until then I find it really far fetched.

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Wheel hop/chatter for the first 15-20 feet (after the chatter stopped I started to spray). I think improvements could be made with:

 

A poor launch will require a lot of power to recover from at the top end. Being beat out of the hole means you are playing catch up all the way to the end. Fix your wheel hop/chatter and gain a third second or more. Beware too much tire/traction it will increase wheel hop in many cases. Experiment with lower tire pressures and compare 60 ft times to see if there is an improvement. Keep a record of the pressure and track surface temperatures. Don't forget smoky burnouts will raise the tire pressure. Lower pressures usually increase traction. More tire could allow even lower rear gears allowing a higher RPM 3rd gear in the traps

Edited by datzenmike
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72240Z,

 

-2/10 a second is a ton of time in the 1/8 or 1/4 (100-200 pounds is a big deal in any form of racing).

 

-You have no clue what im putting down for power unless you have some telepathic powers to know what a .042 jet of N20 adds to my stock VG.

 

-Do you know what David has for power (I remember a stock vg30dett with top mount intercoolers and stock turbos with a bit more boost)???

 

-Compare the 1/8 mile times and you'll see Im less than 1/10 a second off David's 1/8 mile time (.095).

 

-cjr198car

Edited by cjr198car
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Datzenmike,

 

Thanks for the input. I launched the car quite a few times that night and found 30 psi to be the best (I drove around the water box and did a quick spin to clean the tires). I think I might need to raise the front and rear of the car (I slammed it for looks and the negative camber in the rear is decreasing contact patch) for better weight transfer and maybe a slightly stickier tire. I have Falken Azenis 195-60-14's, but I think sacrificing tread width for a stickier tire will just cancel out the benefits of both. I found that hoosier makes a 205-50-15 in a few compounds. That might be the ticket...Keep the Falken Azenis for the autoX.

 

-cjr198car

Edited by cjr198car
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I say for now don't do any engine mods just work on suspension or go slicks or drag radials and try to shave those 60 foot times. once you get that down and get good seat time start working on increasing power or more top end to get those high traps and lower times. good luck

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With an all JY parts 3 liter with a 120 rwh N20 shot my 510 ran a best of 12.55@110 on 24.5x13x7 slicks. The problem launching a 510 is that the rear trailing arms cause the tires to "toe" out and scrub speed, the solution was to use a modified rear crossmember and set the camber and toe to reduce the tire scrub. With my first setup this resulted in a 1.7 second 60 foot time and a mid 12 with 256 rwh.

 

The second setup used the same size slicks but used air bags in the rear springs (40psi) and a 14x6 libras in the front with 165/70/14 tires. The motor used the same nitrous shot but the motor was a built turbo 3 liter stroker with a small T4. The 60 foot times dropped to a best of 1.62 and resulted in a best 1/4 mile time of 10.96 @127 with 535 rwh.

 

The trick with a 510 is to weight transfer to the rear without scrubbing tires or loosing control. Currently I use a set of proshock coilovers with 50lb springs in the rear in addition to the above modifications, to assist with weight transfer a set of 90/10 front struts were made with stock 4 cyl springs.This helps transfer the weight of the car onto the slicks and resulted in a best 60 foot time of 1.58.

 

 

What I would suggest is using a set of drag radials and using a set of stock front springs. If the rear crossmember can be adjusted I would set the rear toe to 1/16" and you want your Camber to be at least a degree more positive than for s street setup and the caster should be setup a degree positive as well. This will help to weight transfer and help the tires bite off the line.

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I can post some pictures of my rear crossmember and trailing arm setup (if you would like). The crossmember was made by a friend at Raver Motor sports and has complete adjustment for camber/caster and toe.

 

10secslipx.jpg

 

 

slottedcm.jpg

 

rearsuspension.jpg

 

 

pivotbolt.jpg

Edited by 510six
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