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510 brake problems


Mesh-71

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Ok, so I am bringing this dime back from the dead, I have bleed the master, and all four corners. Still nothing at the brake pedal, cant pump up pressure, pedal just feels like there is nothing there. Any idea's? Is the master shot? Could it be the proportioning valve?

 

Anybody got an idea?:confused::confused:

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Stock brakes? Are your caliper/wheel cylinders leaking? Open a bleeder and push the pedal, did fluid come out? If you do not know what you are doing, take it to a shop that does. Brakes are important.

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Sorry if that came across as bitchy, But I was just looking for ideas from someone who had been there before, I know that brakes are important, if it was as easy as finding a leak I would have been done already :lol:

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Well did you open a bleeder and push the pedal? Does fluid come out? Sorry but if you knew what you were doing then you would fix your brakes and and wouldn't be asking. Just because you have an old car doesn't mean you know how to fix cars. Like if maybe you had taken some classes at the college or worked at a shop. I do not know you so how will I know. Good luck

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How do you think you're bleeding the system if you're not getting any pressure on the pedal? Why would you move past your first wheel if the pedal never engaged? This is a good reason for someone to suspect that you might not know how to adjust your brakes.

 

When my master failed, it leaked *into* the firewall interior. I was able to tell because I had peeling paint inside the car right behind the master. Are you 100% positive you don't have a leak anywhere?

 

If you don't have a leak, and the system has been fully bled, the fail point can either be at the pedal (look up the pedal itself and see if it's connected to the linkage for the cylinder), or in the master cylinder. That's a good place to start.

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I have a old car!!!!!!

But I did stay at a Holiday INN Express once!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Look if bubbles are comming up in the one of the resiviors when someone is pushin the pedal. if yes then its the master.

 

The master will still bleed out to the wheel cylinder if bad but cant PUSH a load.

 

 

This recently happend to my 521.

Datto510(Eric) and Bucket(tim) came over and help me bleed my system and wasnt holding either Like a half hour and still wont hold

. Eric notice bubbles comming from the master when I pushed the pedal, also alot of small bubbles in the clear line i was useing to route the excess hyd fluid in to a clear catch bottle.

I had a new spare master in the house. Swapped it, then bleed all 4 brakes like in 8 mins WAS DONE!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Moral of this story???????

Buy Japanese brake and clutch parts IF POSSIBLE!!!!!!!!! That master was only 5 years old.

 

sometimes its not possible to find japan made parts but there is a difference.

 

Just so happens the one I put in is another taiwan made unit

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New master? Old master?

 

Bleed the master first. Remove the two lines F and R and run short ones back into the reservoir. Pump until it stops squirting bubbles. If nothing comes out the piston may be seized far up in the bore, seals in backwards or push rod is disconnected. Re-connect the F and R lines and continue bleeding. DO NOT let the reservoir run dry! Or you have to start over.

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