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Gustavs 1975 Low 620


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This is Motavated posting for Glozano a homie of mine that has been having a hard too logging into Ratsun. He really cant! So I am here to show off his awesome rig.

 

1975 short bed single cab 620.

 

Engine: L20b with SSS head, cannon intake and 32/36 weber carb.

 

Suspension/brakes: Disk brake conversion front and rear. Lowered I believe 4 inch all around.

 

Wheels: 18's Armada smoked.

 

Exterior: HID's and his nice carbon fiber hood. "The first one made" :cool:

 

He has been doing all the work himself. But he does need help. If some one can help him with his account. Please? He would really like too use the search tool and talk more about his project. Thanks!

 

HERE ARE THE PICS!!!!! His truck and mine used to be twins. He has done way more work than me and has done an awesome job.

 

360 DEG VIEW!!!!

 

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This is the first time seeing that crazy rad and fan set up. Have not been over his pad in a while. NICE!!!! It seem too like he used that Honda rad people were talking about a while back... NICE!!!!

 

Common guys let him in!

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Guest jaimesix

Nice truck.

 

The color is cool. Looks like your 620 has good friends within the neighborhood.

 

Jaime.______________________________________________________

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:D dude that hood is freakn sweet :D...nice radiator and fan set up...does the hood fit good? looks like it does...does it just bolt on with stock bolts? the hood latch is it just a stock one ? is it one of the ebay ones.?. i got to have one ... oh ya i almost forgot nice truck man keep up the work

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Nice truck, not to sure about that 4 runner roll bar lol...

 

I can look into his account problems, did he sign up and activate his account?

 

Edit: Looks like he signed up as GLOZANO67, but never activated his account with the confirmation email. I went ahead and confirmed him and added him as a registered user. He should just be able to login now :)

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NOW THAT I'M ABLE TO POST SOMETHING, I WANTED TO GET SOME HELP WITH THE TRUCK. NOT SURE IF THIS THREAD IS APPROPIATE FOR THIS BUT HERE I GO ANYWAYS.

MY BRAKES LOCK UP AFTER ABOUT 1/2 AN HOUR OF USE I MEAN LOCK UP TO THE POINT WHERE THERE IS NO MORE MOVEMENT. THEN I HAVE TO GET OFF OF THE TRUCK AND REALEASE THE PRESURE FROM THE M/C BEFORE IT CAN MOVE AGAIN. HERE IS A LIST OF THINGS I'VE ALREADY DONE.

- REBUILT M/C WHICH IS A 15/16

- REBUILT FRONT CALIPERS FROM AUTOZONE

- CHECKED FOR LEAKS ON THE BOOSTER

- ADDED A PROPORTIONING VALVE THAT REDUCES PRESSURE UP TO 57% WITH A VALVE ON IT. ALL THIS DID IS SEND THE PRESSURE TO THE BACK AND LOCK UP THE BACK BRAKES.

* NEXT I WILL INSTALL A DISC/DISC BRAKE PROPORTIONING UNIT FROM SUMMIT. BUT AFTER THAT I'M DRY ANY SUGGESTION'S??????

THANKS:confused:

Edited by GLOZANO67
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What disk setup/calipers are you running up front, are you running disks out back too or still running drums? Is that a 620 master cylinder or is it from a car? Are they pulling air into the system or losing fluid? Im scratching my head trying to figure out why they would hold pressure....????

 

BTW, that hood looks slick:cool: Whats the underneath of it look like as far as bracing goes? Also do you have any pictures of your exhaust, like where you split it off and how it is routed?

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Well i have 4 corners disks brakes all are set up with beebanis brackects. I have calipers front d21 hardbody rebuilt rear isuzu trooper, m/c is 15/16 from 280zx rebuilt, ford racing proportioning valve with knob that decreases pressure up to 57%.

They are not sucking in any air in the system or losing fluid they just get locked up after using the truck a while. It used to only be the front but when i installed the prop. Valve know all four get locked. I guess it sent extra pressure to the rear. Any help would be great.

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FAN CLUCTH WAS B**** TO WORK WITH TO TELL YOU THE TRUTH, FIRST I TRIED LOOKING FOR A WATER PUMP WITHOUT THE FAN CLUCTH BUT IT WAS NO WERE TO BE FOUND. DID SOME R&D AND NOTHING, I ENDED UP WITH A ZAW SAW ONE NIGHT WITH MOTAVATED AND ME TAKING TURNS CUTTING IT OFF. FINALLY, JUST WELDED THE CENTER OF IT AND WERE GOOD TO GO.:eek:

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NOW THAT I'M ABLE TO POST SOMETHING, I WANTED TO GET SOME HELP WITH THE TRUCK. NOT SURE IF THIS THREAD IS APPROPIATE FOR THIS BUT HERE I GO ANYWAYS.

MY BRAKES LOCK UP AFTER ABOUT 1/2 AN HOUR OF USE I MEAN LOCK UP TO THE POINT WHERE THERE IS NO MORE MOVEMENT. THEN I HAVE TO GET OFF OF THE TRUCK AND REALEASE THE PRESURE FROM THE M/C BEFORE IT CAN MOVE AGAIN. HERE IS A LIST OF THINGS I'VE ALREADY DONE.

- REBUILT M/C WHICH IS A 15/16

- REBUILT FRONT CALIPERS FROM AUTOZONE

- CHECKED FOR LEAKS ON THE BOOSTER

- ADDED A PROPORTIONING VALVE THAT REDUCES PRESSURE UP TO 57% WITH A VALVE ON IT. ALL THIS DID IS SEND THE PRESSURE TO THE BACK AND LOCK UP THE BACK BRAKES.

* NEXT I WILL INSTALL A DISC/DISC BRAKE PROPORTIONING UNIT FROM SUMMIT. BUT AFTER THAT I'M DRY ANY SUGGESTION'S??????

THANKS:confused:

 

Your brakes are locking up because the pushrod between the pedal and booster or the pushrod between the booster and master is too long. This pushrod is not allowing the master cylinder piston to release all of the way. Seems to work fine, but each time you hit the brakes it holds a little bit more line pressure to the wheels. Eventually causing it to lock them. When you go release the line pressure, you are good to go for a little while again.

There are a couple of other threads that discuss this exact same problem, so you might try to look them up.

 

PLEASE TURN THE CAPS LOCK OFF!!

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Hey! It's easier for us old bastards to read!!! BUT IT DOES LOOK LIKE HE'S SHOUTING!!!!

 

 

There should be between 1/16" and 3/16" of free pedal movement before the brake push rod meets any resistance. This is important.

 

The push rod from the brake master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal by a clevis pin with cotter pin through the end. Loosen the lock nut first and then remove the cotter pin and push the clevis pin sideways to remove. Disengage the push rod from the brake pedal and turn the end to lengthen or shorten the rod to get the correct free play. When done, tighten the lock nut. Be sure clevis pin is secure and cotter pin is installed!!! Very important!!!! Check the pedal action is satisfactory before driving. Might be wise to recheck the cotter pin again too.

Edited by datzenmike
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