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Jay's 72 S30


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  • 2 months later...
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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys sorry I have been MIA again, been working hard on the z.

 

I have it running really well/ Rebuilt the su's with SM needles.

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I flushed the cooling system

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swapped the coil overs and brakes from the 72. All the seals were screwed I had to replace the rear seals and I just outright replaces the front yoda 4x4s.

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My wife and I cut up the stock housing to make this lil bit of cool

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Also adjusted the valves which were way out.

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This and a bunch of other stuff like fabing up a choke lever mount, changing trans/dif oils etc... got the car running pretty well. Im to the point where it just starts I dont even need choke.

 

Also I realized the pieces of pipe I welded on the top hats to keep the coils center were limiting travel and so after lowering made it so I had no suspension lol. I actually drove it like that for weeks, when I hit bumps my wife would complain, the hood would pop open etc.. it was really bad lol. I cut the pipes down and installed poly bump stops. The car rides like butter now even with the 225/250 rates

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So then I got started on the body. The car was covered in 7 years of outside grime and pine tar. My wife and I broke ass scrubbing the entire car with goof off lol, it worked pretty well. The car needs paint but at least its semi presentable now. I wasted no time enjoying it and got started installing the ZG's

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This guy came to help out lol

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Then I shaved the front/rear bumpers and installed the air dam. The dam needs to be adjusted, I used the holes that were drilled already(bought used) and it doesnt quite line up. The flares hide it so for now its ok.

Here is before

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Here is after

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With the flares and a slight drop

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This was prior to be fixing the suspension and on a ride down to the beach the violent jarring on bumps knocked the dam loose and sucked half of it under the car, I ran over the corner light in the mean time womp womp womp lol

Zip ties got me home

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Luckily I had a spare set of lights (that I was going to sell :-()

Good as new.

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I did a bunch of other stuff like replace a window I smashed, painted the mirror etc... I think the car crisped up pretty well.

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With the interior I wrapped the steering wheel in leather with the kit from msa. I am very happy with how it came out, its like a 30 dollar nissan comp copy.

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Then I installed 350z seats. It has been done and I saw the thread on hbz but I didnt agree with the method he used at all. He crossed 1" squar stock then sacrificed a set of stock rails for the mounting studs. I just used 2 pieces of 1/2 square stock drilled and reinforced using high grade hardware. That was the ride height isnt super high and its still was stronger.

welding on my porch lol get er done. better then out in the street like the zg's

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Look at the bead I got with a 70 dollar used HF flux core mig!

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comparison, height is about the same using my method. You cant get any lower physically you hit the tunnel and a bunch of other stuff.

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Done and done, these seats combined with the bum stops and fixes suspension makes for an EXCELLENT ride. NYZCC had a cruse that I attended and it was like a dream. So firm like on rails but so comfortable you could actually drive for hours and not be hurting.

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Then I decided I needed some tunes for those long rides. I decided to fab up front pods. In the rear I just used a stock mount reamed out for a 6" speaker on both sides. One side the mount being reversed. The made the rears easy peasy. the front required quite a bit more work.

Here is a shot of the backing/frame and one covered in cloth ready for epoxy.

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filler hell lol

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during paint. I used flat black so it would match the stock panels. They came out very well but I dont have a installed shot yet. I'll update with one. I couldnt be happier with them, the driverside clearance is super tight, 1/4 between the clutch pedal arm and corner of the speaker grill lol.

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I need to get a pic of the finished install this last pic does no justice.

 

Did some other things like chrisp up the interior in general and toss my rear 72 carpet in, made a big dif. all and all I think the interior looks pretty good.

I need to get the flocked dash and center in asap to really make it clean. Then after paint Im going to toss the red interior in that I restored.

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OOOOOOOk so then I decided I needed more go lol. I tracked down a 82 f54 with flat tops, short block. The seller said he didnt know the condition but the head he took off looked new. I took a gamble for 150 bucks. When I took the pan off I found the bottom end had super low miles. The crank has been balanced by a machine shop. the cylinders had little to no build up and good cross hatching. So those thing found I decided to take a calculated risk and use it as it.

Then tracking down a head a friend (Will) let me know he had a basically new one on a rebuilt motor at a another friends shop (Clive). I got the motor basically for 150, when I got there I found the head really was 0 miles, still had assembly lube. Along with it was a new oil pump, timing kit, and 9mm pistons I just sold for 200 bucks. lol So free new e88 head :-).

I dont have a before shot uploaded and its 1:30am so I'm too lazy lol. I looked like shit though prior.

Here is during assembly, after paint lol. with my trust helper ;-)

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I got a great deal on a set of weber dcoe 40s and rare shorty mikuni manifold from Clive, I painted and installed new gaskets/seals. I also scored a set of msa 6-1 headers and full performance msa 2.5" exhaust with wide band o2 bung welded in for 400 shipped lol on ebay of all places. I had to fab my own throttle shaft bearing one was missing as well as my own studs because the mani requires really short studs.

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I have been slapping it all together and here is where I'm at. I hand sanded the lines and nissan on top of the valve cover after the pic for contrast it looks way better that way.

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I am waiting on a set of billet linkage from Dave C because it didnt come with any and I ordered a bunch of brass and copper to fab a vacuum log across the manifold. I also ordered spacers because weber dcoe chokes contact the mikuni manifold, I had to remove the choke linkage to mount them but when the spacers get here I'll put the choke linkage back and mount them a final time. Then thats it, I have to bolt it up to the same 5 speed, turbo flywheel/clutch from earlier in the thread and drop her in! Then work out a throttle and choke linkage and procede to drive with a bigger smile

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Thanks guys

 

My mcmaster order came in today so I knocked out the vacuum manifold.

 

Maybe its because I grew up a plumber but I think it looks great lol.

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Which studs are you referring to? On the Mikuni studs HAVE to be used, there is no clearance. I fabbed mine up myself out of 8.8 socket caps.

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The spacers I ordered came today and I couldnt help but bolt the choke linkage back on the carbs and get to doing a final install. Whats this though.... they still hit even with the spacers!!!! lol the hits keep on a comin with this weber mikuni combo lol.

 

Here is a shot with all 3 situations haha 1st carb is the spacers and no choke linkage. 2nd is spacer and linkage which actually clears on the center because there isnt a linkage rod tower. 3rd is no spacer no linkage.

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The other issue is the choke actuates away from the driver which kind of complicates things. I have had the chokes off this whole time so I didnt realize it until today.

 

I'm going to modify the choke linkage so it doesnt contact, doesnt make me happy to alter the carbs for retail sake but w/e I'm done screwing around. I'll try to do it in a way only a really trained eye will even notice, and thats with the carbs off the car because mounted you cant see the area anyway.

As for the choke actuation direction I guess I'll just run a choke line under the carbs and loop it 180degrees to the front. I plan to relocate the choke under the dash and hide it so hopefully it all works out and the 180 turn wont interfere too badly.

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Geeesssuuusss Jay ... your projects make my projects seem like i'm changing my oil ! :thumbup:

 

I have never seen a shorty tripple intake ... cooler than shit ... be really fun on low-end! My tripples were plenty of fun on a stock l24 haha. I've gotta start trolling hybridz again obviously

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No way DTP lol but thanks :-).

 

I think the intake suites higher hp actually, long runner are usually for better low end tq. The mikuni is a funny design either way, I would love to know what their design motives were. Its so tight I had to fab and use small studs and just nuts then tighten each a little at a time going down the line so a stud wouldnt bottom out. Then the ports arent matched there is a little lip that I read is for anti reversion. Interesting path to take vs cannon and twm etc which are all straight shots down port matched runners. Velocity and flow vs gross volume maybe.

 

I still only just read and sell on hbz lol. Every time I start getting involved I get into trouble :-X.

 

Did you pix the pics in your thread yet? last times I checked it was all over bandwidth :-/

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I finished the linkage today. Installed Dave C's arms and some keepers. Fabbed up a cam for the throttle cable. Modified the chokes, the spacers were installed too. Besides a plug for the therm housing I'm good to go.

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Hope to get my stuff together and get the engine in this weekend but that depends on how much help I can get and how shot I am after the 4th. Need to get it off the stand, bolt up the turbo fw, spec pp, daikin clutch, zx 5 speed etc.... also need to make a run for fluids and some odds+ends. Thinking ill push out and street park my 72 so I can lock up the 73 if its not done in a day. There is a lot of work to be done, swapping the complete drive lines and also full exhaust. Thinking if everything goes smooth I can get it done in a 12 hour day, but when do things ever go smoothly lol......

 

Anyone have any weber initial start up advice for me so I dont drain my bat cranking? I'm going to prime the bowls and have all the adjustment/access screws snug. Anything beyond that? Should I maybe rig up a temp choke too?

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I started the engine/5speed/exhaust swap this weekend in the sweltering 100+ degree heat. 12 hours in it sat and 8 today really put a hurtin on me. There was a bunch of issues. one of the engine mounts was slightly tweeked making seating a pita. The stock clutch slave is too long and wont fit because there is no hole in the fork. I cut the rod so it would fit snug, hope thats fine. For some reason the belt that was working fine on the l24 is too big for some reason. Then the exhaust was a complete nightmare. Just a bunch of things.....

 

The obligatory before shot lol

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Out with the old, off to a new home I believe.

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Poor wife gets all the fun jobs lol. Painting the cross member in por while I can, going to do the bay and front wells soon.

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The flag raising

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In with the new

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Sat ended like this, looks good but so much more work to do.

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Sunday was a whole other pain in my ass. I got a great deal on a used full MSA 2.5 but what ever I saved in cash I spent in patience installing it. No orientation marks, over crushed pipe, creeper on a hill etc... made things real fun. It's in now I just have to modify one of the mounts.

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More fun jobs for the wife lol.

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So I have a tons till to do. A shift lever has to be bent up to clear the tunnel, or the tunnel cut. I have to do the fuel lines. Need a throttle stop/barrel to complete the cable linkage but the mount is all worked out and looking good. Hopefully tomorrow I can try and start and tuning can begin.

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Today I modified a stock 5 speed shift lever so it would clear my 73 tunnel. I was going to make a bend and a weld but I couldnt get it as hot as I would have liked and it broke. So that plan turned into all welding lol. Notched the pieces like Lincoln logs that way I could fill in lots of area with weld. Wanted to make sure I made strong welds because the lever is cast and welding cast can be sketchy, coupled with the fact it takes a lot of abuse.

It came out pretty good, I gladly dropped it a little over an inch, moved slightly in towards the driver and brought it back about 2 inches which was a tiny bit forward of stock. Couldnt even get it into place before modifying

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Also bled the clutch since I installed a new slave and braided line I had for the 72.

 

Picked up some 5lb springs to modify and use for the throttle linkage. I went from the barrel cable stop set screw to the rear header stud. Worked out pretty damn well and It made all the difference. With it the throttle is much smoother with a nice feel. The extra cable is there until I know the set up work 100% in the road. Same for the long sleeve from the fire wall. Long sweeps are better but a single 90 may be good too.

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Primed the webers, moved the chokes around, pumped the gas a few times and it wanted to start. I advanced the timing like mad pumped 3 more and it started up. I am waiting on a chase for the o2 bung thats coming tom so the hole is wide open. Its very loud like that. Didnt let it idle to warm up because of how loud it was and I dont want to soot up my well blasting it with an open hole from the collector lol. Hopefully tom it comes early so I can chase the screwed up thread and plug the hole. When that happens I can pull the car out let it idle until warm and start tuning it up.

Here is a poor sound quality vid for shits and giggles. Its the 2nd start. I moved it around previous, forward and back just to make sure everything was cool with the shift lever and clutch etc...

 

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Thanks :-)

 

Today I went through hell to get a chase I had ordered for the screwed up O2 bung. Repair didnt go smoothly at all :-/. Than I pulled the car out and let it get to temp for the 1st time. there is a weird noise coming from the front carb, hope its not something serious like valve train issues. Seems to go away at higher rpm after I adjusted the idle mix a bit.

 

Couldnt get the idle below 1500 once I felt I had the idle screws set right. I believe thats because the throttle on one or more of the carbs wasnt shut all the way. Maybe misalignment on the linkage or maybe not enough spring tension to snap it closed. That would cause a high Idle. It also dieseled when i shut it down. Thats another indication the throttle isnt 100% closed. Maybe even a vac leak somewhere.

 

There was also an occasional backfire through the carbs or spit.

 

I took it down the hill from my garage and the throttle cam broke immediately. I was 50/50 on if the way I had it attached would hold. Guess I got my answer lol. I had to leave it down on the street and hope some jerk off doesnt mess with it. Tomorrow I'm going to stop screwing around and weld it up along with fabbing up a stronger return spring. I turned it off as soon at the throttle hit the floor and it dieseled the entire time I pushed the car out of the way of traffic. Until I could get the hood open and put my hands over the intakes to kill it. So not a fun experience.....

 

Also noticed the muffler is hanging cocked. Really not looking forward to fixing that its been a pain in the ass to make the exhaust work after buying it 2nd hand. No ref points, instructions or orientation, over crimped pipes etc.... sigh......

 

Just not a good day at all.

 

The up sides I'm seeing is there was no smoke at all to indicate either rich running or burning oil. Thats a load off for sure. Gives me the hope that onc eI fix these issues I can take the car for a spin and feel it out.

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Today I had to go rescue the car. I welded the cam that broke on me, got the car started and got the car back to the garage. I should have welded it from the get go but welding soft thin steel and thick dense black oxide treated steel is not really a fun thing to have to do. Not with a 110v no name mig anyway. It worked out though I got three really good triangulated tacks which in my opinion is enough. Also fabbed and installed a 8lb spring. That seems to have done the trick solving the dieseling issue. I would suggest anyone with triples who experiences the common issue of dieseling to check their return tension and that the carbs are being held closed properly.

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At the garage I loosened all the throttle linkages and adjusted the throttle plates and synch. The idle evened out at about a grand and the odd noise from the front carb disappeared. When I just moved the car back now the idle was settling at about 800 however. I'm fine with either but it says to me I need to do another round or two of synch/idle mix tuning to get consistent starts and idle speeds.

 

Took it for a ride down the block after all that was done the throttle was like butter, I mean perfectly smooth with just the right feel of travel, power, tension etc... The end of the throttle travel gets a little hard but I think thats a good thing, you shouldnt be that far down with the pedal unless you mean it lol.

 

I did notice a slight hesitation at certain rpms too. I believe its the common issue of idle/primary switch hesitation lots of triples owners seem to be trying to track down and eliminate OR driveing around the issue with foot work. I haven't driven the car enough to decide what I'll do myself. It's there though.

 

Noticed the trans was popping out of reverse when I hit bumps so I took the shift lever out and ground the outside 90. That solved the issue. Since it was out of the car and I had forgot yesterday I snapped a pic.

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Installed the flocked center I have had for a good 5 years now lol. Finally great to see the damned thing in.

The pic makes the shifter seem really short. It kind if is I guess but not as bad as the pic makes it. I find the throw quick and position very comfortable. It would have ended up taller if it didnt break when I was bending lol.

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With Sayakas help the exhaust was also finished. Which involved 3 hours of prying and forcing to get it to hang ALMOST correctly lol. W/e it is now is what its going to be for a while because I've had it.

No pic yet lol. Sounds awesome.

 

I'm calling the swap complete and mission accomplished. I'm going to spend like the next week straight just driving, dialing in and enjoying it........ I hope.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The wife and I recently painted the engine bay. Yes, yes, yes its better to do it when the engine is out. When your doing a swap in the 110 degree heat though your limited on how much you can get done in a sitting lol.

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Here is the hunk of what looks like roofing tar and plumbers putty the PO used to patch the huge hole through the passenger firewall where the aftermarket AC was deleted. Professional stuff right there.....

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Here is a bad pic all said and done. Ill do a better one after I wrap the headers and install the heat shields.

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Bitter sweet day Sunday, my journey with the 72 has come to an end :-(. The new owner came and picked it up and thats that. I hope he picks up where I left off and actually finishes the car. So much blood sweat and tears went into that chassis.......

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Really makes me sad to have it gone. Spent like 6 years with it and never drove it.

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