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Jay's 72 S30


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After you get some of these parts that clean, you could hit them with some clearcoat. They will clean super easy next time.:D Thats what i do with some of my stuff. The clearcoat helps seal off the porous metal and the dirt doesnt get so deep that way.

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Ya that's really the thing to do but it takes so long (for me)to set up to paint, maybe when I do the rest of my body panels I'll spray it too. I wouldn't want to rattle can it because it will chip so easily and it would be such a pita to strip to redo.

 

I'd have liked to clear the calipers too because the paint just going to get chipped up or w/e anyway. Just have to go back over the car once I'm finished pushing to get it on the road.

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I got the intake and turbo wrapped today. It's not the prettiest but the mani is double wrapped, the turbo quad wrapped plus the alum layer. Just concerned about under hood temps. There is a 280z hood(and vents) waiting just in case too.

 

At double the recommended application thickness I like to think its going to do something for under hood temps. Maybe I'll gain a measly 5% efficiency too. For 50 bucks complete including all the wrap the turbo wrap kit and the paint I'm willing to find out.

maniandturbo003.jpg

maniandturbo005.jpg

Edited by 72240z
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I cleaned the gas tank up today so I can get ready to paint it. Thinking of using a primer sealer then a bed liner. it's a 20 gal alum out of a boat, 100 bucks shipped, fine by me. There is some pitting from I guess electrolysis or salt or both but its not TOO bad. I'm going to fill them with a sandable high heat metal epoxy that all the welding shops I talked to seem to swear by. It's called alvin products lab-metal, http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?ID=1.

I really lucked out finding the tank, because of the rear mod I did I kind of had to use a cell, this tank with 1/2 buffer room on top fits flush with the high point of my cut and if that wasn't good enough the fill neck is int he exact location as the stock one so I get a 20 gal alum fuel cell with stock fill and no mods. Plenty of room on the sides to spare in case I choose to mount my surge tank/pumps there etc, for 100 bucks lol.

gastank003.jpg

Here is the 240ohm sender it had and the stock datsun 90ohm. I'm going to mod the datsun sender to work because I don't want to change the gauge and its impossible to find a proper 90ohm sender. I don't think altering it will take to much honestly, looks very straight forward. Going to shorten and put a bend in the rod, drill mounting holes on the top and cut out a thick gasket. Easy to say though I guess.

gastank005.jpg

I plan to use the stock strap set up to mount it, snap in on one end with a slack J bolt on the other.

Anyone know what side of the sending unit represents full and what reps empty? Would be helpful.

Edited by 72240z
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So I got my manifold in the mail earlier in the week and decided to smooth out the port castings. Also the throat at the throttle body, I don't see the point of adding a bigger 60mm tb and leaving the same restrictive throat. You really can't get much out of it either, maybe 2mm then the it becomes a lil thin for my taste, say nothing for the humps for the threads.

mani001.jpg

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I'm not really comfortable going any further (Maybe a tad on the throat) unless I eliminate the need for those thread humps and just weld up the holes. I will be done my itb set up at some point so w/e this works till then. Just can't take all the crap on the stock mani and the webbing, bothers me way too much.

Edited by 72240z
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  • 1 month later...

Ya I have been up to a lot I just haven't 100% anything so I didn't update. :D

 

I have been working on a LD28 water pump mod. Using the Larger finned LD28 water pump on a Regular L series. It's not the 1st time that it's done but I couldn't find any write ups on it so I had to reinvent the wheel.

 

You have to cut off the arrowhead on the wall and shave the rest down a few thousandths in order for the fins not to contact. The fins are a good 20% larger though so I think its a really worthwhile mod, esp on a turbo L series.

This is stock vs diesel

bunchofshit003.jpg

After modding

bunchofshit008.jpg

 

I also painted all the remaining engine stuff, I'm waiting on a single gasket and a pilot bushing then I'm going to reassemble the motor and get it ready to drop in.

zville005.jpg

 

Bit the bullet on insulation and thats what I have been doing the last 2 days. Its so damn tedious to do. I have a 2 layer system I'm going to use.

zville004.jpg

Edited by 72240z
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Its a marine tank so I assume no. As it turns out the tank is like 2 inches too long so I'm going to have to section it and have someone weld it (I don't have a set up for alum). Since I have to do that if there is nothing at all I'm going to add one or 2 walls, maybe dividing the tank into 3 sections. That plus the surge tank should be just fine. I hope lol......

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  • 2 weeks later...

Made a little progress on the motor. I have to sand the top of the valve cover and install the tb, turbo oil lines, injectors/rail, dizzy, oil pump etc.. It's moving along though at least.

moremotor002.jpg

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just a heads up and I know I will get everyone and there mom to chime in on this but I was at Troys shop 3 days ago and he had pulled a header off a 510 off that was wrapped been on the car for a year or so the number 2 tube had collapsed in on its self and the others were so brittle it wouldnt have been to long before the other did the same and its not the first time I wanted to get picture but he threw it away before I could. ceramic coating isnt that expensive and so much better than the wrap... just hate that happen to you and your project

 

again its just my .02

 

Clayton

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I always appreciate advice, even just opinions. Everyone knows I dole out my fair share lol.

 

There seems to be a deep ongoing debate everywhere about wrap being good of bad due to a couple reasons. The biggest one I find is moisture created. Most of what I read though is unpainted or poorly painted headers that seem to be the most effected. The stock L28et manifold is way thicker then any headers I have ever seen and I coated it with 10(literally) coats of VHT 1500 degree paint advertised as containing ceramic. I know thats prob a bs gimic, just saying they are well protected from rust.

 

I'm definitely not dismissing the warning though, going to be keeping close tabs and I do plan to replace the one in there with a coated one. Have to say though I pulled apart a l28et once with 100k miles but that had been sitting outside in the rain/snow etc since 1985 and It was damn pitted but with lots of meat left. I think for a couple years I'm safe, definitely going to be keeping tabs though.

 

Thanks for the compliments and advice guys.

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Little more progress, got the oil pump, dizzy, injectors/rail, turbo oil return in. Sanded the top of the valve cover. Wanted and had more lined up but I'm still adjusting to days being shorter :-(. Winter kills me.....

 

moremotor2001.jpg

Edited by 72240z
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Did some work on the alt today. I was going to just use it as a core but I saw a Nissan reman sticker on it. So I decided to break it apart and see how everything was.

 

Note - the housing is 280z-n/azx which is 60 amp (LR160) but the internals are 280zx turbo which is 70 amp (LR170). The ear was broke on the housing so....

 

It was dirty and there was some surface corrosion along with some spidy guests but its very low mileage, 0 play in the bearings and all the resistance checks passed.

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Before (right) and after (left)some light sanding to clean the rotor assembly, the brushes/rings were already pretty clean.

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I went through the trouble of taping off the reman sticker, details lol.

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Did the front wrinkle black to match the other pulleys but couldn't bring myself to do the fan as well because it's in such nice shape.

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Also redid the mount for the alt and tensioner arm, engine mounts, oil supply line, heater core line fittings etc... Hopefully tomorrow I'll bolt them all up and that its the engine is ready to be bolted tot he tranny and dropped in.

Edited by 72240z
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Right now I've taken a break, I've got it to the point of being driveable on the street legally again, which makes me feel pretty good... so now I'm just going over some ideas I have brewing, figuring out costs, making plans, deciding what willl work, what won't. Nothing solid right now, too many things up in the air. Body work is next, along with valve stem seals, and maybe an oil pump. I'll take my time though, I'm not gonna rush anything, or let myself get burned out. :D Thats about all. :lol:

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So I went out in the tent today to mock up the throttle body. I'm just going to modify the throttle. I don't know why everyone spends money on a spacer if you can just cut and tap the throttle arm.

 

Anyway I looked at the tranny I broke my ass to clean and noticed it had oxidized shockingly fast. Kind of a rookie mistake on my part no bagging it or coating it or something but w/e. I decided to take yellow620's advice and throw some clear on it. Formal apology for not just stfu and doing it when he suggested weeks ago and saving myself the trouble of having to clean off the ox. Rustoleum makes an automotive clear coat they advertise as saying resists dirt and oil and is good to 500 degrees. That kind of makes me feel a little better about clearing it and easing the fear I had mentioned prior about it chipping and looking like crap soon after driving.

 

The clear is nice, it lays much thicker and clearer then your general rattle can clear. I smells pretty close to a 3 part automotive clear too, pretty nasty shit compared to basic rattle.

tranny006.jpg

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I have to pull the auto pilot out of the engine and tap in the manual pilot, which has been sitting in my freezer for a week now. I'm also waiting on a turbos130 throw out bearing I ordered. Then I can bolt everything up and drop the motor in.

 

Next major refurb I have to do is to rebuild the rear cv axles and weld up the matching r180 I pulled from a 810. The same 810 that popped my good friend and my car flipping cherry lol.

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Edited by 72240z
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