Lose the points..go electronic [ignition]

[Pacific coast Datsun]

i switched the wires and nothing i have one wire running from the c to negative and one running from positive to the b like the write up says. i also have the black and white wire running from the battery to the coil as well. i tested to c if the dis. is getting power and it is soo.... yea im completely lost.. is it possible to fry the matchbox???

OK sounds like you have the B & C wires hooked up right. The ONLY other wire you need to connect is the black w/yellow [or white] that used to be connected to the resistor to the + side of the coil. If your @ TDC compression stroke & the oil pump drive is @ 11.28 it should fire up.

[jonesy510]

"the oil pump drive is @ 11.28" how do u check and or set that? and the distributor was in the motor wen i bought it so i figured it was at tdc but ill check. will this effect having a spark or not??

[ggzilla]

i figured it was at tdc

Almost never have I found an engine w/o distributor at TDC. I would double-check it.

[datzenmike]

If you remove the points dizzy and simply slip a matchbox in, it should work. The drive spindle won't move unless you crank the motor over in the middle of the swap. The dizzy can only go in in one position so this should work. Look on the matchbox, there is usually a ground terminal, so connect it to ground. The dizzy HAS to have GOOD ground to work.

[jonesy510]

i tested to see if the dizzy was grounded and it is but then i checked the matchbox separately and its not. does the matchbox need to b grounded?

[ggzilla]

Yes, the matchbox is grounded through the machine screws with which it is bolted to the distributor body.

[jonesy510]

so i got a new matchbox and still nothing. :( i think im gunna cry....

[Pacific coast Datsun]

so i got a new matchbox and still nothing. :( i think im gunna cry....

All i can say is go back & re-read the how to. Matchbox's almost never go bad.

[bigjoe619]

i came across this electronic distributor from a 620 pick up and it had the wires leasing to the fender wall with the black box just looks like a connection box with a red and green wire what do i need to do to run it in my 510

[datzenmike]

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=14010

[Pacific coast Datsun]

i came across this electronic distributor from a 620 pick up and it had the wires leasing to the fender wall with the black box just looks like a connection box with a red and green wire what do i need to do to run it in my 510

Hey im in san diego too. If you need help wiring it up lemme know.

[nbesheer]

I have a question. I just put mine in but when it comes to working around the balast resistor I don't know where that is. I have one on the fire wall above the brake booster that is a squarist rectangle with wires held on by nuts, and another one below the coil that is a rouded edge rectangle with wires held on w/ spade clips. all the wires in my car were painted silver and then orange by the revious owner so its really har to see what i am looking at here, how do I find out which one I need ?

[hang_510]

I just put mine in but when it comes to working around the balast resistor I don't know where that is. I have one on the fire wall above the brake booster that is a squarist rectangle with wires held on by nuts, and another one below the coil that is a rouded edge rectangle with wires held on w/ spade clips. all the wires in my car were painted silver and then orange by the revious owner so its really har to see what i am looking at here, how do I find out which one I need ?

 

with the EI, you DO NOT use the ballast(S?) resistor.

 

youll need the proper matching coil, ref: 79 200sx when shopping for it.

[nbesheer]

I know that I do not need the ballast resistor but you need one of the wires from it connected to the coil but I have two balasts and I don't know which one to disconnect.

[Bears510]

HELP!!!

Ok, so I did the swap and I am getting nothing. BUT, I wanna make sure I have all the wiring done right before I scratch my head till it bleeds!! Engine was set to TDC and verified, I have the HEI hooked up right as that is the easy part, grounded properly and mounted to an aluminum plate with arctic silver heat sink compound (awesome stuff!) Green and red from the dist to the one side of the HEI, and the other sides of the HEI to the pos and neg of the coil. Good to go there and quadruple checked. The possible confusion comes form the other wires from the Harness (waiting on my manual to get here). I have a 69 dime and the wires that are coming out of the harness are black and blue, black and white and of course the yellow wire for the brakes. now it was running before with the single points dist but it looks like someone tapped into the black and blue wire (as identified by the red electrical tape...I am sure not factory tape..lol!) with a black and green wire that went to the positive side of the coil previously and then the blue wire and the white wire went to each end of the resistor. In the previous writeups, it says to eliminate the the ballast resistor (got a blaster 2 coil) by connecting the two wires that went to the resistor (blue and white) together creating a loop basicly. did that and with the green wire tapped into the blue wire, and with the white and blue wire connected together they are effectively connected to the pos side of the coil (so basicly the blue and the white wire are on the pos side of the coil.) does this sound right so far?, I wil basicly be eliminating the black and green that is tapped into the blue and join the blue wire and the white wire together and put on the positive side of the coil for a better setup, but I was just following the how to as much as I could. One other thing I know I need to check is the gap in the dist. I saw it mentioned previously somewhere and now I cannot find it and dumbass me forgot to write it down. so any info on that would be appreciated.

the Dist I have is exactly like the one in the write up referenced here in the first pic

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=184&highlight=electronic+ignition+hei

I haven't had a chance to test for power yet as having recently moved I can't find half my tools yet, but my neighbor is going to help me with his circuit tester/meter when he gets home this afternoon. Just wanting to make sure I have the wiring done right before I try and trouble shoot some other stuff. I also made sure to separately ground the dist base to chassis ground as well. swapped the spark plug wires around where they should go and all that. still no spark.

Any and all help is appreciated...

THANKS!

Edited December 19, 2009 by Bears510

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Make sure your @ TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. 1 way to tell is put a tissue in the spark plug hole & as the cylinder comes up on compression it'll blow the tissue out. Sounds like you did everything else right.

[Bears510]

Make sure your @ TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. 1 way to tell is put a tissue in the spark plug hole & as the cylinder comes up on compression it'll blow the tissue out. Sounds like you did everything else right.

Yep, did that...Actually took the valve cover off as I had an extra valve cover gasket and wanted to be sure...as well as took the spark plug out and verified there too (noticed afterwards you can see the cyl 1 lobes through the oil cap...lol! (smack!) hmmm ok...well, I will wait till my neighbor gets back and see what we can find with his meter...

THANKS!!!!!

[Bears510]

Hey guys, My neighbor had a family emergency so wasn't able to help yesterday so I couldn't check for power and stuff but once I get off work today, I am gonna find my meter and try that. I stilll cannot find where it was posted as to what the gap on the sensor is supposed to be set at as it looks like the screw was loosened at one point as there is a shiny spot where it looks like it might have been...any ideas?

Thanks again!

[banzai510(hainz)]

if motor at TDC install the dizzy. now where it points will be #1 plug then go 1 3 4 2 counter clock wise fire order.

 

Now if the coil is firing then also ck your valve lash if the head was changed.

 

should be ez.

 

remember if a dizzy was installed onto a wrong timming mount it will not be exactly on a plug wire #1 plug. make sure it right on or very close where you can dial it in by adjusting the timming plate.

[Bears510]

THANKS Hainz! did exactly as you said and everything was spot on (except the timing like you said...it's close enough that it should have worked) but found my meter late last night. Come to find out...I am suspecting a bad hei as we are getting no spark even at the coil. Gonna go swap that out today at lunch. (get off work in 3.5 hours)

Neighbor was scratching his head as bad as I was. lol!

[Bears510]

Any ideas guys on the gap of the electronic dist? sill need to make sure I have that right as it was loose and looks like it was moved. It is currently at .035

[Pacific coast Datsun]

I didnt "gap" my dist. when i installed it & mine fired right up.

[Bears510]

yeah, I wouldn't be so worried about it but I still have nothing coming from the coil even after thinking it might have been a bad HEI and swapped it out for another new one. The sensor was moved as there is a "clean" spot where the set screw had used to be and it was loose. It is at .035 now but if I move it back so the set screw is covering the clean spot, it would be at .015 approx. So that's why I need to know what the gap should be.

Any chance you could check your gap and let me know what yours is set at so I can make sure I have at least a good base line to set it at just to make sure it's not too far out of whack?

Edited December 22, 2009 by Bears510

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Bear..need clarification on the "gap". Maybe a close up pic of where youd check for it? Im more than happy to check mine for you but need to know what im looking for.

[Bears510]

This is the dizzy that I have,

 

The gap that I need to know is the gap between the sensor and the four points that rotate underneath the rotor. It is, from what I understand, the magnetic pickup and there is a specific gap between the four points and the pickup. It picks up the magnetic field and triggers the module to then fire the ignition. My set screw was loose and it has been moved outward.