Lowering my 521 pickup...have a stupid question

[NSRz32]

Ok so this is my first time dropping a truck, I've built tons of cars over the years, but trucks are new to me. Obviously the front isn't a problem as the torsion bars can be indexed...but I searched on here and know that you use drop blocks on the rear. I've gone to two parts stores and explained what I was looking for with no luck. Where do I pick them up? I only want to do a 2" set of blocks.

 

Thanks!

[pl521sss]

If you can't find it from a local shop, order it online.

Manufacturer: Bell Tech

Get the one with 2 degree taper

 

 

But I'm using a taller blocks and removed leaf spring.

In case you break that center bolt that holds the leaf together, it's the exact match and fits right on the lowering block.

Allen bolts ( 38 16 x 1 12)

 

 

 

 

[VRTSid]

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Lowering-Block-Kits,2155.html

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Extruded-Lowering-Blocks,3353.html

 

Im going to use these on my wagon, I like this page because there are all the different peices that you could need

[odmanjohnson]

you might try asking for a set of 2" "lift blocks" or leveling blocks...

[72wagun]

If you can't find it from a local shop, order it online.

Manufacturer: Bell Tech

Get the one with 2 degree taper

 

 

But I'm using a taller blocks and removed leaf spring.

In case you break that center bolt that holds the leaf together, it's the exact match and fits right on the lowering block.

Allen bolts ( 38 16 x 1 12)

 

 

 

 

 

This looks like the exact set I got for my 521. I got it from http://www.summitracing.com/. I just measured the diameter of my axle housing, and got the kit that matched (don't remember the size). I got the 3" blocks with the 2 degree angle. I did have to shorten my driveline about an inch though. You probably wouldn't if you only go 2". It seems llike the 2" blocks didn't have any angled options. I'm kind of thinking you don't need it as much for 2".

[banzai510(hainz)]

I got the 3" blocks with the 2 degree angle. I did have to shorten my driveline about an inch though

 

I have a 521. I never shorten the drive line. You should not have to.

I too used the 6202 belltech blocks(3in with 2deg)

 

 

NSR

turn down the tosion bar first in front and see how low you what it.Thne order the rears. as I had 2in then later went w/3inch blocks. @in just wasnt enough.

as for indexing the fron if you index then you want it really low,Then the 3in block in back will be fine.

Edited May 4, 2009 by banzai510(hainz)

[72wagun]

I have a 521. I never shorten the drive line. You should not have to.

I too used the 6202 belltech blocks(3in with 2deg)

 

I forgot to mention that my kit was from Belltech also. Do you have the 2 piece driveline or one piece? Mine is the two piece. I also didn't add any spacers to the carrier bearing (to lift it up). I've heard that some people do this. When I went to install my drive line, the slip joint would not slide in enough for the drive line to clear the diff flange. So, I measured how much clearance I needed, and added a little for suspension travel, and had it shortened.

 

Who knows, I don't have it on the road yet, but everything fits well, and there is still some room for the slip joint to slide in a little when the suspension is compressed.

[pl521sss]

Don't forget to put one of this under the bearing carrier.

Depending on the angle of the drive shaft.

I think maximum you can put is 1.5 inch before you run out of room.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[denveratsun]

Or...go all the way and install one of these instead!:D

 

 

Take out a leaf or two from the rear pack while your at it. It will look way groovy.:cool:

 

 

This picture was actually taken a while ago..I have since taken out another leaf and it looks way better now. This picture looks high in the back.

 

Be safe...have fun...drive 'er hard!:)

Edited May 4, 2009 by denveratsun

[banzai510(hainz)]

72wagun

All I did was install the blocks on top of the leafs and that was it.

 

The spacer for the carrier bearing is needed usually if you go lower than 3 inches or you get a vibration/howl from the trans.meaning its not aligned correctly.

 

Denveratesun(man thats a nice 521)

What drive line is that?Datto510 was looking to do something like that.

PM and show him your photos. he scammed a 510 driveline and is going tosee if that will work.Or you tell him what you did,so you can save him from doing extra work

 

 

i myself dont like taking out leafs and you can get axle wrap if you take off too fast. Bottom out to quickely also.

Edited May 4, 2009 by banzai510(hainz)

[pl521sss]

72wagun

 

i myself dont like taking out leafs and you can get axle wrap if you take off too fast. Bottom out to quickely also.

 

 

Removed a leaf cause needed it much lower

Don't have a high powered L motor yet so axle wrap will be a problem later.

 

As far as bottoming out, not an issue for me

Have hauled 2 complete long block engines

These shocks are awesome

 

 

 

[datto510]

Or...go all the way and install one of these instead!:D

 

 

 

Whoa!! Nice! Is that a wagon driveline? Was it shortened?

 

Denveratesun(man thats a nice 521)

What drive line is that?Datto510 was looking to do something like that.

PM and show him your photos. he scammed a 510 driveline and is going tosee if that will work.Or you tell him what you did,so you can save him from doing extra work

 

Im gonna try it, right after I put my new wheels on!

[72wagun]

72wagun

All I did was install the blocks on top of the leafs and that was it.

 

That's strange. I couldn't have gotten my driveline put back in if I hadn't shortened it. My situation seems to be the exception though. I just assumed that it was because I didn't put in the carrier bearing spacers, but something else must be different.:confused:

 

Anyway, it sounds like NSRz32 shouldn't have to worry about it. If anyone wants to see how mine looks I could get under there and take some pictures. I also have a stock driveline I could hold up to compare to the shortened one. Sounds like he probably won't have an issue though.

[banzai510(hainz)]

That's strange. I couldn't have gotten my driveline put back in if I hadn't shortened it

 

No need to take the driveline off.

Just lift the axleup and slip the 3in blocks under it

[72wagun]

No need to take the driveline off.

Just lift the axleup and slip the 3in blocks under it

 

That makes sense. I took it off because I was replacing my U-joint at the same time.

[VRTSid]

Don't forget to put one of this under the bearing carrier.

Depending on the angle of the drive shaft.

I think maximum you can put is 1.5 inch before you run out of room.

what is this called?

[NSRz32]

You guys are awesome....thanks for all the replies :)

 

NSR

turn down the tosion bar first in front and see how low you what it.Thne order the rears. as I had 2in then later went w/3inch blocks. @in just wasnt enough.

as for indexing the fron if you index then you want it really low,Then the 3in block in back will be fine.

 

 

Good call. I'll do that.

 

 

This looks like the exact set I got for my 521. I got it from http://www.summitracing.com/[/url']. I just measured the diameter of my axle housing, and got the kit that matched (don't remember the size). I got the 3" blocks with the 2 degree angle. I did have to shorten my driveline about an inch though. You probably wouldn't if you only go 2". It seems llike the 2" blocks didn't have any angled options. I'm kind of thinking you don't need it as much for 2".

 

Nice I might have to pick them up from summit. Its only about 40 minutes from me in Cleveland.

[datzenmike]

i myself dont like taking out leafs and you can get axle wrap if you take off too fast. Bottom out to quickely also.

 

Removing leaves is not the best thing even on a stock truck as it reduces the amount of load carrying, (not a big deal to many) but also allows more suspension travel because springs are now softer. More suspension travel on a lowered truck is exactly what you DON'T want! If anything you could go stiffer so you don't bottom and tear your expensive exhaust system off or fuck up your oil pan or snag your steering cross link. 'Softer' springs also allow more body roll on corners. Let your tires and bucket seats do the flexing.

[denveratsun]

Removing leaves is not the best thing even on a stock truck as it reduces the amount of load carrying, (not a big deal to many) but also allows more suspension travel because springs are now softer. More suspension travel on a lowered truck is exactly what you DON'T want! If anything you could go stiffer so you don't bottom and tear your expensive exhaust system off or fuck up your oil pan or snag your steering cross link. 'Softer' springs also allow more body roll on corners. Let your tires and bucket seats do the flexing.

 

Man...I totaly get where you are comin from...I would have said all the same things before I did the work on my own truck. Now...since I know that you do lots of work on your stuff...I want to make sure that you know I am not saying your a numbskull...I just disagree. I have been hauling so much stuff in my truck for so long now and I have seen some small decline in my ability to haul large loads, but for the most part...it's business as usual.

I have not really noticed any ride/handling/cornering difference.

 

There is a direct relationship between a low center of gravity and oversteer/understeer ratios. I love driving my truck. It handles so great and has very little body roll. I would never put the leaves back in.

 

I drive this little truck every single day...unless it's snowing, raining really heavy or icy...It is so much fun!!!:D

[NSRz32]

NSR

turn down the tosion bar first in front and see how low you what it.Thne order the rears. as I had 2in then later went w/3inch blocks. @in just wasnt enough.

as for indexing the fron if you index then you want it really low,Then the 3in block in back will be fine.

 

Thanks for the good advice! I indexed the torsion bars last night and I'm definitely going to want to go with the 3" blocks in the rear to level it out.

 

[denveratsun]

Whoa!! Nice! Is that a wagon driveline? Was it shortened?

 

 

I know that we have already talked in PMs about this driveshaft, but for the folks that are watching out there in TV land...

 

This is a custom built one-piece shaft. Both stock ends were welded on. The shop said that this length was pretty close to as long as they would want to see without going to the 3rd step up in wall thickness. It is a wall thinkness to diameter ratio thing. :rolleyes:

 

The front end is the regular 4speed output shaft splines without the bolt..since the 5 speed has a slip shaft flange instead of a bolted flange.

 

I like the look of your truck man. It will be even cooler when you get the rear down a bit more:D

[izzo]

i like your plate dood lol

[NSRz32]

i like your plate dood lol

 

Thanks! :)

 

In Ohio (and I'm sure many other states) you can register up old plates to historical (25 years old or more) vehicles from the year a vehicle was manufactured. The AB 2084 was actually my Dad's license plate back in the day. So it lives on :D

[NSRz32]

If you can't find it from a local shop, order it online.

Manufacturer: Bell Tech

Get the one with 2 degree taper

 

 

Thanks for the info, I just ordered up the 3" Belltech block kit from Jegs and made sure to get the 2 degree taper. The part number is 146-6202 FYI ;)

[NSRz32]

3" Looks good. No fitment issues. Half an hour job with the lift :)

 

 

Now to install the flares and put these on