stilltwisted Posted April 18, 2009 Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 my 260z has the aluminum drums and wont budge to slide off the lugs Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 18, 2009 Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 Loosen the E brake cables then remove the rubber covers on the back side of the backing plate, reach inside from behind and back the brake adjusters off all the way with a flat screw driver. Give a good smack with a hammer and try again. If the drums are like the 620 truck there are two threaded holes across from each other on the front of the drum just outside the four studs. Thread two 12mm head bolts in and tighten evenly. The bolts bottom against the axle and force the drum off. Make sure the shoes are backed off (see above) or the drum will pull all the springs and hardware off with the shoes, usually breaking things. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 18, 2009 Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 If it wiggles a bit, the brakes are sticking and hold it on. Datzenmikes' suggestion about backing off the adjuster will resolve that. If it is totally stuck (doesn't rock or wiggle even a bit): If it doesn't have the threaded holes, give it hard smacks on the face, between the wheel studs. More gently you can tap on the drum edges, from the back towards the outside. Perhaps it works loose. The drum often corrodes slightly and sticks to the center hub part. Tough to get off. With cast iron brakes, some we had to use a torch, get the drum face (around the hub) red hot until it "popped" loose from the hub (you can hear it pop). Not sure about how far to heat aluminum because it won't turn red. Probably heat until it pops. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted April 18, 2009 Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 I just go borrow(buy then return) a puller from advanced. Anytime I was mobile and had to get it done then and there I used a baby sledge. Quote Link to comment
stilltwisted Posted April 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 thank you for the info guys . i am heading to the 24hr walmart in a few minures to get a coleman propane bottle for my harbor freight torch. the finned aluminum drum doesnt have the threaded holes. i had given up for the nite for the neighbors. i will try first thing in the morning Quote Link to comment
datsunfish Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 I have had drums that were so worn and adjusters seized and would not budge. If it seems seriously impossible then you can drill out or grind the head off of the shoe retainer pin from the back side and the shoes will collapse. If you can actually get a drill bit on it it might spin free without having to destroy the pin. This has worked for me before. Quote Link to comment
riverz Posted April 20, 2009 Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 I had the same thing happen to me on my 280 I had to beat them off with a hammer. Use a brass hammer or you will lose cooling fins.I ended up putting rear disc brakes on. them work much better and are easier to work on. Jason Quote Link to comment
stilltwisted Posted April 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 sorry I forgot to tell you guys, the propane torch heating the drum just enough to tap it loose worked. i had to use a few scotch brite wheels with the anle grinder to get rid of maybe seven or more years of built up rust (had it for that many years, dont know of previous maintainence). oh yeah I used anti-seize on contact areas where the crud kinda 'welded' together Quote Link to comment
stilltwisted Posted April 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 I'm gonna put disks on the rear in the next few weeks. I just have to find where I put the parts as I got them throughout last summer. Quote Link to comment
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