DatDoug Posted August 18, 2007 Report Share Posted August 18, 2007 I need a stock down pipe the kind with two pipes going into 1. Good shape Link to comment
OL YELLER Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 I know that you said you were gonna weld it up from the down pipe on down...why not just make your own down pipe...1 5/8ths inch s/s tubing..basically just a lil bend in the middle..use the old flange and cut off the bad sections..or make your own flange (3/8" thk steel, coupla holes etc...can be done...I thought about it but, never went that far...(I work as an R&D exhaust engineer/specialist..so.........maybe it is just my imagination as to how ez it would be... Link to comment
OL YELLER Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Oh and "good shape" might be stretching it just a bit...we are talking about a 30+ year old part here...also. I believe that the early L16 (72/73) were the only ones to have the seperate 2 pipes into one collector....the rest became a single "clamshell " type of set up I think... Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Hey Ron. Certainly the L20Bs from '75 through '80 trucks were a single round pipe and looked nice (to me). The NAPS Z motors went back to the two pipe manifold. On my things to do in life list, I would like to extend these pipes into a proper dual exhaust system. What can I say, I grew up with muscle cars lol. Link to comment
DatDoug Posted August 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2007 :)I picked 1 up today in "good shape" from this guy over here who has an ass-load of 510 parts Link to comment
OL YELLER Posted August 21, 2007 Report Share Posted August 21, 2007 [/img] These are the two that I have......the third one is my own attempt at trying to run the two pipe system that Datzenmike was referring to...haven't finished that one though............................... Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 21, 2007 Report Share Posted August 21, 2007 http://www.nwde.org/extras/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5182&PID=55658#55658 RacnJsn95 on the NWDE made his own and can get Flanges made if you like. Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted August 21, 2007 Report Share Posted August 21, 2007 Yeah, if anyone wants to try to make their own, I have a local water jet guy that will cut them out of 3/8" steel for $25 bucks. I see them on ebay from time to time, but they usually want like 65, which is dumb. I can also get them cut out of stainless if you want, but it will cost more, not sure how much. I'd write more, but I'm at work... I can even get the flange with bigger holes also, but not sure what good what would do... Check out the link that Hainz posted, you can see the flange(s) I drew in autocad for the water jet. Link to comment
OL YELLER Posted August 21, 2007 Report Share Posted August 21, 2007 Yeah, if anyone wants to try to make their own, I have a local water jet guy that will cut them out of 3/8" steel for $25 bucks. I see them on ebay from time to time, but they usually want like 65, which is dumb. I can also get them cut out of stainless if you want, but it will cost more, not sure how much. I'd write more, but I'm at work... I can even get the flange with bigger holes also, but not sure what good what would do... Check out the link that Hainz posted, you can see the flange(s) I drew in autocad for the water jet. Wow, that is awsome work with the water jet....anyone contemplating this move would be better advised to go with the stainless steel (longevity being the watchword here..)..also if you can..get the flanges heli arc welded...mig welding will add a bit more heat...working in the header industry..I made my own flange out of 3/8" s/s on a CNC machine one nite about 3 years ago...but, man I am just blown away by the water jet work...way to go... Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted August 22, 2007 Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 Yeah, the water jet is pretty amazing! No clean up required, comes out much cleaner than a plasma for sure. I just went with mild steel, because I needed it like... Yesterday, and didn't want to wait for stainless. Believe it or not my whole pipe was TIG welded, except for the couple spots I couldn't reach with the TIG torch, so I MIG welded it there. I had to make multiple passes, due to my poor cut job. I cut the pipe with a hacksaw :o I'm going to invest in some better tools for the next one I do. I'm planning on doing stainless turbo header in the near future, once I finish buttoning up my 620, so I know I can drive it everyday without problems. Possibly a stainless N/A header for the 620 sometime after that.. I'm having a lot of fun with this stuff. In the near future I should be able to get water jetted round port exhaust flanges cut. Sometime after that the square port. Link to comment
hang_510 Posted August 22, 2007 Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 I have a local water jet guy that will cut them out of 3/8" steel for $25 bucks. i may need one, good to know! what would the SS cost be? any cheaper if i sent the (316L) SS first? Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 22, 2007 Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 be honest that mild steel is pretty thick. It would out last the body of the car /truck. But at least use aluminized pipe. Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted August 22, 2007 Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 The minimum charge would still be $25 to cut if you supplied the material, it's his minimum fee. It might be more than $25 if he supplies the stainless, I can call him later today and find out if you'd like. I figured the 3/8 steel would be plenty fine. *EDIT* Just got off the phone with him. He said it would be better if I (you) supplied the stainless, he said it's hard to get a small peice in a timely manner, and he can't buy it new that small. I'd rather not inconcenience him either, so if anyone (including me) wants a stainless one, either you supply it, or I can try and get a scrap piece from the local metal store for it. Mild steel isn't a problem though, he usually has that in stock, and it's pretty easy to come by a small chunk if he doesnt. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 Try a metal recycling place. Link to comment
hang_510 Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 so if anyone (including me) wants a stainless one, either you supply it, or I can try and get a scrap piece from the local metal store i grab scrap SS from work so all i usually have is small pieces :D someday ill use it to learn to weld. is 3/8" the min to use? ill see what thickness i can get (its free!) mostly thin, 1/8" - 3/16" Link to comment
OL YELLER Posted August 24, 2007 Report Share Posted August 24, 2007 i grab scrap SS from work so all i usually have is small pieces :Dsomeday ill use it to learn to weld. is 3/8" the min to use? ill see what thickness i can get (its free!) mostly thin, 1/8" - 3/16" As every one already knows..I work for AEM/DC SPORTS as an engineer/R&D specialist.. and headers and engine management is all we do...3/8" thick mild steel or 304 s/s or even 409 s/s will be good to use...the 3/8" is industry standard for flanges...anything thinner will warp over time... Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted August 24, 2007 Report Share Posted August 24, 2007 Ron,,if possible would you be able to make me a new flange for my L 16 if i got you a pattern? Link to comment
OL YELLER Posted August 24, 2007 Report Share Posted August 24, 2007 Ron,,if possible would you be able to make me a new flange for my L 16 if i got you a pattern? Mark shoot me a PM Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/nissan-datsun-200sx-1980-1981-80-81-front-exhaust-pipe_W0QQitemZ160149088639QQihZ006QQcategoryZ33633QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Hey check this out! I've never seen one like this before. Link to comment
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