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Any one have any tips on Rack&Pinion?


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I am working on a 12 valve ka24e swap having problems with the center link bumping the slave .

I customised the oil pan to clear the center link (rear sump) I am thinking Rack & Pinion may be the answer any one done rack on Datsun 510?

What rack did you use? Got pics? thanks for the help!

 

 

 

december2008027.jpg

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There are different slaves available. Don't quote me, but I think the 280z or zx come in from the side. Someone? Skib? Bleach?

Also if you have a rear sump you likely have a truck oil pan. Try a 240sx front sump pan. Get the oil pick up that matches it too.

Edited by datzenmike
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Yeah, you really need to get the correct slave cylinder. That's a truck slave. You want a CAR slave, such as from a 200SX, 280ZX, or 510. Those will fit, they aren't as long and the hose comes out the side not the end. They work exactly the same, just a different hose placement.

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I got the slave from the 200 sx got clearance there now thanks Hainz .

I am encountering another problem when I am turned all the way to the left the center link bumps the oil pan I have cut the oil pan as far as I can to still allow movement of engine parts.

Edited by 1969DATSUNMan
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Any one know if you can flip the pitman arm on 510 for clearance issues or will the 620 one fit the gear box I noticed it has more drop. thanks

 

If you mean turn it upside down... no. The splines are tapered and only goes on one way. The 620 arm might work but if it is shorter than the 510, you won't be able to turn as tight before hitting the stops.

 

 

 

I am working on a 12 valve ka24e swap having problems with the center link bumping the slave .

I customised the oil pan to clear the center link (rear sump)

 

Seems to me you need a front sump pan from a 240sx KA. The rear sump is for a truck which has the steering across the front. The 240sx has the steering across the back like a 510.

Edited by datzenmike
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What KA is that? Is it a single cam out of a truck? Looks like one to me since it doesn't have the "frying pan" under the mains. It looks like the motor mounts are in the "correct" holes unlike normal KA swaps that require moving the mounts to the lower holes. I think you need to raise the engine. The KA truck mounts are designed different than the KA car mounts (I noticed this when doing my KA swap in my 620 using a truck KA) Using the KA CAR steel mounts the ones that go to the block. Then use the 620 engine mounts, that will get your engine higher giving you way more clearance. Also if the steering link hits under full lock its no big deal, how often do you turn the wheel that far? I don't see the point in building custom engine mounts because of it. Just use what I've stated and call it a day.

 

Post some more pics of different angles of the pan mounts and stuff.

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what about just notching the oilpan ? how much clearence are we talking here i dont see how a small notch would hurt

 

That wouldn't be a bad idea, but IMO it would be best to raise the motor so the bell doesn't drag on speed bumps.... Well if he goes as low as I like them :D

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