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About Eddie

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    same 2-dr 510 since Jan 1993
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    punching my own face with Jello up my nose
  1. The sound is definitely not the rear brakes themselves. I definitely got it now. There must have been a tiny amount of air left that I finally got out. What ended up working to get it out is a bit different than a bench bleed. Here are my theories.... A) why manufacturers say not bench bleeding voids the warranty: brake fluid lubricates the internals, so where there's a chance air may still be trapped, that spot in the master may see sub-par lubrication. Also, air has oxygen, and oxygen oxidizes, and can accelerate internal corrosion vs. parts fully immersed in fluid. B) why b
  2. Thanks for checking and posting what yours sounds, or doesn't sound like. I did bench bleed first with clear hoses recirculating back into the reservoirs, but with the master out of the car and not installed. I think un-evacuable air must have gotten back in as I was angling the master to get it back in position AFTER the out-of-car bench bleed. Looks like it's time to crack open another quart and try again...in-car bench bleed, followed by bleeding to the wheels. This whole thing kind of makes the bleeder valves which are located on top of the master seem useless if they can't get all
  3. mklotz70... I'm curious, does yours make a sound, or is it super quiet? Anyone else mind listening while pedal stomping fast (with car off and everything quiet around you) to see if you've got a hydraulic noise, too?
  4. Thanks for the replies. I'm not using a booster. The clunking sound is just pedal pressing sound. The squirt sound is definitely coming from the body of the master, not from the pushrod dust boot. It only says "ffssssst" when pressing the pedal down fast, not when slow, and not when being released. Maybe my old master did the same thing, I don't know, but now it does and I have no other non-boosted Datsun to compare it do. I did try bench bleeding it first, but from the time I did that to the time I turned it, angled it, and got it into position, some fluid dripped out, so who knows if
  5. I replaced my working original master cylinder with a new 7/8ths master (260z), bled the brakes, the pedal feels rock hard, total pedal travel is good at about 1.75", but when I press it down fast I hear a "ffsssssst" squirt sound, kind of the same sound the fluid makes when it squirts out a suddenly released bleeder when bleeding brakes. When I press the pedal slow there is no noise at all. There are no leaks on any nipples, fittings, or anywhere else, and the pedal feel is good. Is this just the sound of fluid traveling at high speed through an orifice (or similar normal restricted vis
  6. I just dealt with your same pushrod issue...posted this earlier on "General Discussion - How long does a Datsun live?"... "Who needs a lathe when you have a drill press and an angle grinder. It was a little bit of trial and error to get the bolt centered perfectly in a drill chuck since I was clamping on the threads, but once I got it, it had minimal wobble and ground up great.... http://i557.photobuc...gleGrinder.jpeg Result - new master cylinder pushrod for Z master conversion.... http://i557.photobuc...CylPushrod.jpeg Rust protection. Ooops! I guess I shook the ca
  7. Stupid!!!! Okay I found out about the photobucket thing for photo posting.... My Ride.... http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/eeeaooo/Datsun%20510%20Uploads%20for%20Ratsun/Ride1.jpeg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/eeeaooo/Datsun%20510%20Uploads%20for%20Ratsun/Ride2.jpeg Rebuilding caliper pistons is easier than I thought. Not sure why someone thinks rebuilding pistons is getto. I trust myself in rebuilding components more so than a third world wage earner putting together a "remanufactured" part who only cares about getting paid, rather than having any kind of motivation th
  8. By no means is mine all bone stock and original...I was always looking for an excuse to replace a part and upgrade. I'm just amazed that the "bad" caliper piston has lasted this long, and that the other good one and the master cylinder are still functioning well. And yes the brake cleaner dries fast but just to be sure absolutely all traces are gone I figured I might as well take a break for 30 minutes. I rubbed the seal grooves and the bore clean with Never-Dull, and I sprayed the crap out of them to be sure all traces of lint and micro-metal flakes are gone. I needed a break from the
  9. Wholly cow Datsuns last a long time!!! One of my front brake calipers finally decided to show very slight leakage...I mean SLIGHT, after 42 years and over 340,000 miles. For piece of mind I'm rebuilding both (just finished cleanup and waiting for brake cleaner to dry off before assembly), and replacing the original and still completely functioning master cylinder. That is a damn long time!!!
  10. Laecaon - thanks for the measurements, but are those of your wheel holes, or the actual 280ZX lug nuts? Oh - and thanks for the ebay link......yeah those are the ones I've seen that look like they will work (18.5mm x 14mm deep). I'd like to solve this mystery of why 280ZX lug nuts are so dimensionally special ONCE AND FOR ALL by getting the actual dimensions of somebody's nuts (ha ha). Are you measuring your hole or your nuts? If hole, does anyone have the right nut they can measure? See the below image link of what to look for... http://community.rat...g-nut-specsjpg/
  11. LOTS of research all over the place has led to one conclusion.....for Datsun factory mags, in my case '81 280zx Turbo 15x6 "snowflake" wheels, you must use Nissan lugs nuts. I find it hard to believe Nissan invested in special fabrication equipment just to make custom lug nuts. I'll bet they bought them from a handful of vendors specializing in fasteners. This make far more economic sense. I think I found new ones (non-Nissan) that fit, but I want to make sure. Does anyone have a pair of calipers and a Nissan factory lug nut for an '81 280zx Turbo that fits the "snowflake" rims, that
  12. Feb 6th – last time I showed up :(because the next day I discovered bearings on both front wheels went bad…explains why it felt like white-knuckle driving coming back from Fairfield four days prior. So two choices…. 1) Bad bearings = buy new bearings and seals, remove hubs, clean, regrease and reinstall = drive and smile with no glee because it’s the same as before 2) Bad bearings = excuse to finally put on the used front coilovers I bought at least nine month prior and the new strut brace I bought over three years ago = raise and lower the car every hour and smile with glee knowin
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