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jimbar99

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About jimbar99

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  • Location
    Saint Louis
  • Cars
    65 L320
  1. jimbar99

    L320 LED Taillight Mod

    The relays were from EBay, just standard SPDT 12V automotive relays. The LED lights were from WalMart and the flasher unit was from AutoZone. The elevator bolts were from Lowes.
  2. Need a speedo for my L320. Current unit was taken apart previously and internals are broken. Anybody know of a substitution that would work from a different year or model? Thanks!
  3. jimbar99

    320 truck windshields and windshield gaskets

    Just to be clear, I definitely want one as I responded to your original posting provided it can be shipped to St. Louis area. Hadn't heard anything about an order being placed but I hope there is one in there for me. Email is jimbar99 at gmail dot com. Thanks.
  4. jimbar99

    Matchbox Distributor

    Jayden, I'm sure you're right. I was going by the Mklotz writeup on the swap that shows a picture of a matchbox distributor that's marked with a sharpie, seemingly 80 720. I made a typo in my original post with the 89 instead of 80. I would like to try the same swap, and just need the matchbox distributor to make it happen. I guess even one with the remote igniter would work, or I could hook up the GM HEI to a non matchbox EI distributor. The key thing is that the distributor drive shaft can be converted to fit in my E-1 engine. Thanks for the info.
  5. jimbar99

    Matchbox Distributor

    Looking for a matchbox electronic distributor that I can convert for use on my L320. Looks like one that fits an 89 80 720 with L20 engine would work. If you have one, quote me with shipping to 63348. Thanks. Jim
  6. jimbar99

    64 L320 parts

    I need the bumpers. My 320 has no rear bumpers at all. How much for shipping to 63348 zip? Thanks. Jim
  7. jimbar99

    Need to find chassis VIN number

    Thanks Wayno. The number was right where you said it would be, and it matches the VIN plate (except for the 'D' suffix). Doesn't match the title, but at least it's something. Now waiting for the Highway Patrol to call back about verifying the number and changing the title to reflect the plate. I made the mistake of thinking that left side meant driver's side so I was looking on the wrong frame rail!
  8. jimbar99

    Need to find chassis VIN number

    I bought a 65 L320 with VIN number (from the VIN plate) of 4-L320-03558D. Unfortunately, the title shows L320$03558D. The '4' is in a different place. I see that the earlier trucks used the alternate scheme. My problem is, I can't transfer the title without getting this resolved. I will have to go to the Highway Patrol to get the VIN verified. I would like to see which method was used on the chassis stamp before I go there, and especially I would like to find the number on the chassis. The owners manual says that the location is "Top surface of left forward part of frame side member" I would assume they mean the top of the frame rail on the driver's side, possible within the engine compartment? The manual has a picture that is not helpful in locating the number. Can anyone provide me with a good description of exactly where the number or how I need to position myself to locate it? A photo of the location that's wide enough to identify the same spot on my chassis would be great. I don't want to make the appointment with the Highway Patrol until I can find the chassis number. Thanks!
  9. jimbar99

    Air Cleaner and Throttle Linkage Mystery

    Hey Wayno, Can you throw a tape measure on that band clamp on the air cleaner and tell me how wide it is? It looks to be about 1-1/2" or so, but the actual number would be better than trial and error. It also looks like the flanged fitting on the air cleaner is about flush with the edge of the clamp, so knowing that width would tell me how much I need to extend my flanged fitting and of course how wide to make the clamp. I don't know why somebody cut the flanged fitting off short on mine. The diameter is self expalanatory. By the way, your truck is amazing. Too bad NLs don't make it this far east very often as I'd love to get my hands on one. Jim
  10. jimbar99

    New Windshields for 320 Pick Ups

    Terry, I saw this thread pop up and thought it was current, but I see it is from last year. Nevertheless, I would be interested in one if they come up available again if they can ship it to St. Louis, MO. All automotive windshields are shipped (they don't manufacture glass at the assembly plants) so it is a question of the hassle of packing it. Insured properly, there would be virtually no risk to the supplier. I once bought a large mirror and they shipped it no problem. Let me know. Mine has some star chips in it and I'm afraid one will migrate into a crack and render the vehicle unable to pass inspection. Thanks. Jim in St. Louis
  11. jimbar99

    Air Cleaner and Throttle Linkage Mystery

    Thanks guys for the info and especially the pics! It looks like my linkage bracket might be the right piece but installed in the wrong place and orientation. I can probably fabricate one of the band clamp things pretty easily. The arrangement that's on it now is completely useless. I did figure out that there was a support bar that attached from the manifold to that welded bracket that sticks out toward the front of the air cleaner and made a piece for that. I looked at the parts manual (for the 63, mine is a 65) and it shows another bracket (16574-08000) that looks like it attaches to the bottom of the air cleaner, possibly the #1 identified in my picture, and to some vertical surface, it looks like near the base of the carb. I'll have to take a look and see what's down there. I can see why the air cleaner needs some help holding it in place. On most cars they made the stud that tightens the air cleaner down screw right into the carburetor, but not on this one.
  12. Here in the St. Louis area, we don't see too many L320s. None in fact that I can remember ever seeing, but I have one. Unlike out West, there aren't any around that I can go look at to figure out what's missing or wrong on mine, so I'm relying on your expert eyes to look at my pictures and tell me what's wrong or missing and hopefully suggest what I need to get to make it right. This first pic has an arrow pointing to the jury rigged linkage and return spring, plus another pointing at a band clamp perched atop the carb that I'm pretty sure shouldn't be there. The return spring is ridiculous as you can imagine. It looks like the bracket that the throttle cable is attached to has been bent down 90 degrees and I'm sure that can't be right. Maybe there is something related in the second pic of the air cleaner. There is (1) what appears to be a broken tab off of some kind of bracket, (2) a rubber grommet with nothing going through it, and (3) a short flange on the air cleaner that is probably the reason for the band clamp in the previous picture. I could weld on an extended flange if that's what's needed to correct it. But wait there's more. The last pic shows 3 threaded holes in the air cleaner, but I have no idea what they are for. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it. Some pics of what it is supposed to look like would be helpful. Thanks!
  13. jimbar99

    320 Headlight Relays

    I like that relay box, especially the self-contained fuses. Given the rating that you mentioned, I suspect that the KC relay is identical to the standard 40 Amp relay that I used except for an internal connection to the second 87 terminal. That would mean that the relay is really capable of passing a maximum of 20A per 87 terminal at the same time. It is functionally identical to my setup except that my headlight circuits tie together outside of the relay rather than internally. That is, I have two headlights on one 40A relay contact. I modified your diagram to show how it would be with the standard relay, and there is very little difference. Really just the convenience factor of having 2 termination points rather than one per relay for the outputs. The tradeoff seems a little one sided as far as the downsides vs the upside, but if I had it I wouldn't hesitate to use it if 20A max per light was enough.. H4 high beam is 130 watts, or 10.8 Amps. Running two would be 21.6 Amps total. If I needed more capacity than 20A per light, I would use two conventional relays per side.
  14. jimbar99

    320 Headlight Relays

    Thanks for the link. I thought about using the dual output relay, but there are three issues I have with it; cost, availability and function. I wanted to be able to go to any auto parts or farm supply store and get a replacement. The stores around here don't carry the dual output relay, at least not that I've found, and I already had the standard type on hand. I bought 5 of the single 87 terminal relays on Ebay for $15 and they came with sockets and pigtails, so at around $3 per set it's super cheap. Plus I used 3 of them for my LED taillight conversion, and had 2 left over to use for this project. What can I say, I'm cheap. The KC relay is $6.75 without a socket or pigtails, so it costs more and may be harder to find in a pinch. Function wise, I'm not sure how the KC works internally. If it has two separate sets of contacts, that could be an advantage. If it has one set of contacts and an internal connection between two output terminals, that's no better than what I've already installed. If that is the case the only benefit of using the KC relay is to possibly have one less splice or crimp connection, depending on what you are hooking it up to. In my case it wouldn't save me any splices or crimps at all. WIthout popping the cover off and seeing what's in there, it's impossible for me to say. If it does have one set of contacts and an internal jumper, it might be possible to take the cover off a standard relay and reconfigure it to give the same functionality as the KC relay. Maybe I'll get a KC relay and take it apart to see exactly what's in there. FWIW I did a search on the KC3300 relay, and found a lot of chatter on the Jeep forums about how, when the relay failed, they tried to get a replacement locally and were unable to, or just plugged in a standard relay not realizing the KC is wired differently. The symptom of plugging in a standard relay when your vehicle is wired for the KC3300? One headlight lights with the switch off, but goes off when the switch is turned on. Although any parts store that doesn't have it in stock can get it in a day or so, I'm into instant gratification when it comes to fixing stuff! If I were to go with the KC when I upgrade the lights, I'd buy a spare and put it in the glove box just in case. The KC relay wil plug right into the sockets that I have already installed, and I'm going to rewire between the relays and the new headlights anyway, so I won't rule it out until I can look into it further.
  15. jimbar99

    320 Headlight Relays

    I’m planning on eventually upgrading my headlights to H4 halogen bulbs, so I needed to modify my headlight wiring circuit. Halogen lights are power hungry and need good connections and heavy wire to ensure proper operation. The headlights are by far the biggest drain on the circuit, and the factory wiring routes all of the headlight power from the fuse block, through the light switch, through the dimmer switch and finally to the headlight bulbs. Relays can reroute the headlight power so it no longer passes through the light switch or the dimmer switch. That should increase the reliability and improve the function of the stock headlight circuit, and increase the longevity of the light switch contacts. The fuse in the following diagram feeds the light switch and the brake switch. I’ve already modified my tail lights to use LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs, and won’t make any changes to that part of the circuit, or to the front parking lights. The relays will only control the headlights. The dotted line shows where I cut into the existing wiring to splice in the relays. The modification requires at least 2 relays. One relay controls the low beams and one controls the high beams. I could optionally use 4 relays, wiring each headlight with its own pair of relays. That would reduce the amount of current passing through the contacts of each relay by 50%, and possibly increase the longevity of the components. I’m using 2 relays for now, powering both low beams through one (the LO relay), and both high beams through the other (the HI relay) The dimmer switch mounted on the floor has two possible states, Low Beams and High Beams. Each time you step on it, it toggles between those states. Here's a truth table of the possible combinations: Here’s the modified schematic showing the relay and headlight connections. The dotted lines indicate where the stock wiring harness was cut, and connected to the relay coils and headlights. The floor mounted dimmer switch receives its power from the light switch over the RY (Red with Yellow stripe) wire according to my schematic. It only receives power when the light switch is in the fully ON position (headlights on). There are two wires coming out of the dimmer switch, RB (Red with Black) for high beams and RW (Red with White) for low beams. When the light switch is in the ON position, one of these wires receives power and one does not. Which wire receives power depends on the position of the dimmer switch (LO or HI). The two wires from the dimmer switch previously carried the power directly to the headlights, but now will control the relays, and allow the relays to switch the power to the headlights. A good place to tap into them between the dimmer switch and the headlights is right next to the fuse block as shown in the following diagram. There is a connector right next to the fuse block that includes both of the needed wires, shown by the arrow in the next picture. I cut them just in front of the connector, leaving enough for a soldered connection to the leads from the coil terminal 86 of the HI and LO relays. I could tie terminal 87 of each relay to the other ends of the cut wires, but I positioned the relays forward of the horn relay and there is a shorter route to the headlight wires.There is a bulkhead connector there that passes the wires from the main harness through the inner fender to the passenger side headlight. The wires continue inside the main harness to the driver side headlight, so I only need to tap into those two wires with my HI Headlight and LO Headlight connections to terminal(s) 87 of the relays. I can put a piece of heat shrink over the cut ends of the wires that I am not making any connection to. The arrow in the following picture shows the spot where I tapped into the headlight wires. You can also see where I mounted the relays. I ran a heavy gauge power wire from a spare fused terminal on the fuse block to the common terminal 30 of both relays. This will supply the power for both headlights through a 30 Amp fuse for now. It’s important to fuse this connection to protect your wiring against a possible meltdown and electrical fire! I connected the two 85 terminals together and soldered a ring terminal on the end, then fastened it to a good bare metal ground with a machine screw, washer and nut. Here's a summary of the relay connections: For now, I tied into the stock headlight wiring, but when I do the upgrade to H4 halogen lights, I will install new wiring between the relays and the headlights. An alternator swap for the generator is in the cards before the headlight upgrade. If you wanted to use 2 relays for each headlight, run separate wires to each headlight, and wire them individually the same way as shown. The whole process only took an hour or so, once I identified the right place to splice into the wires. It works great and the stock headlights are definitely brighter than they were. Now a few tie wraps and some electrical tape and I'm done. This worked for me but may not be right for your application or experience level. If you decide to try this modification, do so at your own risk. Let me know if anyone spots any issues or has any suggestions for improvement.
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