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datzenmike

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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. The stock oil filter isn't orange either. These are high wear items. My '74 had the original muffler on it.
  2. The fuel pump, the coil, the rims.
  3. datzenmike

    rhwelder

    The 620 has something like it also. Probably the obvious... for extra support on longer King Cabs.
  4. Well partly open. Stuck and the vacuum diaphragm probably can't open it further. Push up on the diaphragm rod at the rear of the carburetor but hold the throttle at least 1/2 open. There's an interlock that prevents it opening.
  5. Fixing is always cheaper than buying a $300 Weber. Max fast idle is 1,800- 2,200 RPM. If you haven't changed this adjustment when you 'rebuilt' it then it should be roughly in this range. Could be the secondary is not closed all the way. I've had this happen and it was sticky. I pushed it closed with a pencil.
  6. datzenmike

    $32,500........

    I'd pay $35,000 if they keep the wheel covers.
  7. Check that you have NGK spark plugs in it. They are the factory plugs and the best fit and running. Are they snug? but don't over tighten them. Look up the ZDDP controversy and decide if you can trust the oil makers with your vintage Datsun engine. Every year the anti scuff zinc content is lowered and although they say today's oils are reverse compatible with older engines, I'm not buying it. Instead I run 15w40 diesel oil such as Shell Rotella T4 although for Chicago 10w30 might be better for the winter. Chevron Delo 400 is also good as are any after market oils marked 'Racing'. All have ZDDP levels compatible with oils made when your 710 was built. Our 'flat tappet' cams need this extra protection from scuffing that I don't thinktoday's oils provide. I don't advise any synthetic oils as they are too expensive, provide more protection that you will ever need and they tend to begin leaking past old oil seals and gaskets. Loose the fram filter, they are extremely poorly made with inferior parts. Instead get a WIX or NAPA Gold. I just sold my 74 automatic.
  8. Only way to really get at the idle mix screws is to take the carburetors back off. I did and bottomed them and turned out exactly 3 turns. Idle mix is now low 13s and high 12s but much much smoother. This week after work I'll take them off and close them 1/2 turn and check the reading. If too much then 1/8 turn back, too little and 1/8 turn forward.
  9. I'm going by my 710 so maybe but the 510 wagon seat folds upward and forward and the back rest down where the seat was.
  10. Got the O2 gauge in, wired up and calibrated. Ran a thicker power wire from the battery through a fuse to a relay that lets it through with the ignition on. Idle is 14.8/9 to 15.1. I haven't messed with the idle mix screws yet. Could be a little richer. Had it out today, just got back. Full throttle it drops through 11 down to 9.8 which seems kind of rich to me. All I've done is drill the mains out to 1.8mm. It pulls really well but will sometimes let out a pop through the exhaust wen over 4.500. Lots of exhaust rumbling popping on deceleration, but there's no vacuum advance and again maybe a slightly richer idle setting would help this. The SOUND it makes!!! No air filter. It roars. How do you start these R-1 carbs when starting up cold???
  11. The rears won't at all. Front's should. The earliest front seats did not have head rests.
  12. I placed the pan on a flat surface and hammered the stretched bolt holes down, then flip over and check with a straight edge. I also had two of those L supports so I cut one and covered both sides and the rear. A good surface and gasket and it goes on dry.
  13. Yes. Something that goes along for the ride, but reacts to a temperature spike. Synthetic oil is a good idea for a turbo because it doesn't break down from heat as easily. The lubricating system reaches parts that the cooling system cannot and draws away heat.
  14. I don't know what the A series thermostat is. Probably about 180-185, but this is also turbo so it will run a lot hotter under load. A lot of turbo owners run 160 to reduce the chance of detonation but this is a poor way of doing it. The vast majority of the time you're just driving around and a cold engine is not an efficient one. It would be best to run near the design temperature but have extra cooling capacity .... like an oil cooler, larger rad and/or extra fans that come on only if needed. You want the engine to run hot, but tightly controlled so it doesn't over heat.
  15. Stainless steel turns a straw yellow at just under 200C. The thermostat should be around 180 -185 so set your fan controller for 190F or it will be on all the time. Sounds like lifter noise. I would never run any oil with a 10 rating unless well under 0C and never on a turbo engine. Be sure it has a high ZDDP level. Do you have an oil cooler???
  16. Not talking about the cause of the failure. I'm pretty sure you can still steer it manually, albeit with increased effort, if there is a failure just like a failed brake booster or failed hydraulic power steering. I doubt the steering just stops. All three are power assist so all are apples or all oranges
  17. datzenmike

    Hot LZ23

    If running a Z22 block but with an L head (basically a 'stroker' L22B) you'll need the L series dogleg for it to sit right in the car. If the Z22 box is in better shape you can swap the L series front case onto it to convert it to L series use. The Z series dogleg has a very slightly closer ratio gear set than the L series transmission. First and second are closer to third than the L series box. Both boxes have the same 3rd, 4th and over drive.
  18. Installed, calibrated and working. Started, but still cold, it reads 14.9 to 15.1. Haven't messed with the idle mix screws. Does not start very well. Pulling the 'enrich' thingie didn't do much. After about 8 tries with it catching a bit more each time, away it went. Restart is perfect! Cold start no so much. I used a Windex bottle and sprayed each inlet once, and it lights off. Have to refine my starting technique.
  19. Well almost any tire is going to hit the fenders if you are low enough or hit a large enough bump. A 6" rim would have been closer. Always liked that style rim. 👍
  20. If it were that simple everyone would do it. Swap your '77 cab and box onto the '79 frame.... or... Cut the front frame off the '79 and weld to the '77 frame. You'll need the '79 master cylinder to go with it.
  21. Hey what's the best way to start these things???
  22. No worse that throwing a power steering belt or blowing a hose. The steering still works but effort increases. I built a PS for my 620. Driving through deep water the steering would suddenly become very heavy.
  23. datzenmike

    Hot LZ23

    Can you post a picture of this transmission? There are FS5W63A transmissions used on the first gen 200sx, and optional on the A10 and the later B-210. The C would indicate 'competition' (steel synchros) but I haven't heard of them. Perhaps NISMO had them. The FS5W63A was a 26" long (same as the stock 510) dogleg shift pattern and adequate for a 2 liter in a light car. A better choice would be the FS5W71B from a Z car, 810 or the 620 truck. It's a six cylinder strength transmission and there are 3 ratio sets you can choose from. Byron on The Realm had/has a Z22 with side drafts and L head (open chamber I believe) with mystery cam and the dyno sheet said 132 RWHP. He switched to home made EFI and 134RWHP so the side drafts were spot on. Yours is probably north of that.
  24. Set the bung at about 10-11 o'clock so it's up beside the transmission and safely out of the way.
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