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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. Transmission: 2 liters G-L 4 80w90 or equivalent. Must be copper alloy or 'yellow metal' safe or compatible. Differential: less than 1 1/2 liters GL-5 80w90 for below 100F and 140 for constant temperatures above 50F and to well over 100F. Or equivalent in synthetic. Change every 30K miles. The drain plugs have magnets on them so wipe clean so you can check it next change. A warning about synthetic. It tends to seep past old seals and gaskets.
  2. It fits the window glass and the door frame, hell everyone with a 320 has the mold almost made for you. Can't these two parts be scanned somehow? Hell, if you can 3D print a goddamn handgun you can 3D a rubber mold. The outer may have to be in parts to take off, then pull the part off the inner. Again, maybe if cheap enough, the mold can be destroyed to retrieve the part and print another. I don't know shit about this but convinced that someone should try to figure it out rather than give it away overseas. Hasn't enough been given away overseas??? Where's the home grown ingenuity? So you pay for the tooling and then Australia pays for the same tooling or gets them for less because someone already did the heavy lifting.... and then... $80 to ship times 100 is what? $8000 saved doing it yourselves. Doesn't Dat210Guy make emblems from molds?
  3. datzenmike


    Never hurts to eliminate the easy stuff.
  4. Why not? I've asked this I think 3 times on here. No answer. 3d print the mold from a scan. Figure it the fuck out. Then cast in urethane or w/e. It can't possibly cost $3-5K for someone to try this.
  5. Not much, about the same as my 5speed when adjusted. Work the 5th/rev shift rod back and forth and look for something not right.
  6. I guess I was misleading. I have the SUs but didn't use them. Instead I build my own intake and run R-1 motorcycle carbs.
  7. I'm going to make a big guess here. Somewhere on the intake, probably where the large vacuum hose for the brake booster is, is a tiny vacuum line, probably going to a metal line than goes down behind the engine to the left (driver's) side of the transmission. There it changes to a short rubber elbow hose and connects to the vacuum diaphragm. This tells the transmission how hard the engine is working. A very low manifold vacuum means don't up shift too soon. If the hose is loose or cracked the transmission will be fooled into delaying the up shift. Just curious. With the engine off, step down on the gas slowly and just as you hit the floor, you should hear a switch click. Does it?
  8. If you have never taken this or an L series head off before, it's imperative that the timing chain tensioner be blocked from falling out when the cam sprocket is removed and the chain goes slack. You need one of these... Or this happens.... And EVERYTHING has to come off the front of the engine to get at and fix. Maybe 4-6 extra hours plus timing chain cover and water pump gasket and front seal at least.
  9. datzenmike

    521 on BAT

    Not at all Ray. Trailer not included.
  10. I've had zero problems with our gas. My gallon of mix for the weed eater is 5 years old and I just shut it off every fall and leave outside in the shed. Starts every spring on the 3rd pull. Bought a 620 box from the wreckers and it had 5 gallons of fuel in the tank. It was sitting in the yard for 5 years, 3 of them without a gas cap or flap, I know because I took them. And it RAINS here. I dumped the fuel out and through an inline filter and threw in my truck. Never a problem. I worry about it but nothing happens.
  11. The B210 /B310 is here ... https://ratsun.net/forum/46-b210/ . OR.. https://ratsun.net/forum/13-1200/ ... The 1200 sunny (B110) is the forerunner of all the B cars. Parking light delay is more common than you think. It usually is the dried up grease mixed with years of dust on the headlight switch which, I think, is in the steering column. With the plastic 'clam shell' unscrewed and removed from the column, you should be able to use spray contact cleaner/lubricant to clean the switch contacts, without removing the steering wheel. If by chance the entire light/turn signal/wiper switch assy needs to come off the column, the steering wheel will need to be removed..
  12. datzenmike

    521 on BAT

    You can't truly love something and then just turn around and sell it even for profit unless forced by circumstances. Building to sell for profit you may love what you are doing but you can't stay in business without emotional detachment. It's just a commodity, you know when it comes in the door, it will be going out the same door. It's certainly a lesser kind of love. No one sells a house they ' loved and repaired and improved' unless forced to. If they choose to make a profit on it this cheapens it. "I thought you said you would never sell this old house you grew up in"... "Yeah, well they offered me $200,000 above value so...." Value cheapens everything it puts a price tag on love. I didn't say the selling price was too high only that the retardedly rich ran the price up that high. Ray doesn't seem to care much about money. I also think he has fun sinking money into it and that's what it's all about. At least the selling price (if it ever comes to it) will likely reflect what was put into it unlike the BAT 521. It wasn't sold, it was auctioned off. Maximum profit was all it was. Yes, if the buyer sees this as a profit making venture and the intent is to invest little to nothing and then to turn around and sell it for what it's worth, (or more) that, would be disgusting. This is not what anyone would consider the definition of a Datsun enthusiast. Where's the love. Well there is the love of money here but no love for Datsun If you always wanted, say a 510, to build and enjoy and one fell into your hands for a ridiculously low price, (I assume the seller thinks it a fair price so they are ok with it.) it seems ok to me. I suppose if you have the means and money saved you could offer a more fair price for it.
  13. Try to post a picture of the damaged part. Probably the lower left side rod with inner and outer side rod ends with ball joints on it? If it's the threaded rod (lower left) between the ball joints on either end. You could just straighten it, being careful not to damage the threads or a new one from the Nissan dealer would be 48512-H5800 if they even have any. Or try NAPA or any car parts store. It has left and right hand threads so is very specific for this job When swapping the old ball joint ends on, count the number of turns so it goes back in without affecting the alignment.
  14. Looks like... Sprays on like paint... If the gasket was previously replaced and this stuff was sprayed on both sides, but later blew into the coolant it wouldn't surprise me one bit to see this.
  15. You guys are on your own on this. I would read all the posts here about foreign parts makers using your proprietary designs and capitol to make the molds, then later cranking out more and selling them on line for a lot less. Then, as always, there is quality problems with 'rubber' window gaskets and seals. Not saying this is the case here just beware. Christ $80 for shipping???? Why can't this be done???
  16. So you have never driven it and do not know the running condition of the engine, yes? Did you install a new fuel filter with the carburetors? Running only with the choke on and dies when given the gas would indicate a lean condition to me. Is the intake and gasket tightly sealed on the head? Carburetors snug on the intake? Dirt could have gotten in and blocked idle or running jet(s). Carburetors would have to come off to see. While off check the float drop setting. Then.... Put a plug in the #4 lead and set on a grounded surface. Crank engine and confirm spark is getting that far. Take the valve cover off and check that all valves have some clearance when the cam lobe is facing up. As long as the rocker wiggles that's good enough for now. A compression check will confirm that there IS enough compression for normal running.
  17. There's a good chance this was on a low mileage import engine. Garages found it was cheaper to buy them up and swap in complete or even a head rather than the cost of machine work to rebuild them. Mixed in with the regular L16s and 18s were SU equipped L16SSS and L18SSS engines from 510 Coupes. As the SUs would not connect up to anything sent over here the intakes and carburetors were just thrown away, some were saved. I have a set of L18SSS flattops (no, not those flattops) on a 220 intake and the choke cables have been cut with a bolt cutter just like a wrecking yard would do when yanking an engine. Given the choice I would rather have the SUs than a weber. The SUs are not the European SUs and are called SUs (Skinner Union) but they are not. They are Hitachi 'twin carbs' or 'side draft'. They are similar in theory of use and looks but made by Hitachi, so if looking for information or parts go with the Japanese ones. The difference in what you got vs. what you thought you were getting could have been what the seller thought it was. If all you have seen are L series carburetors and these show up you might think they are Webers if you don't know better. Caveat emptor... 'let the buyer beware' holds that it is the sole responsibility of the buyer to assure that he is getting what he is paying for. In this case I think you made out alright! If converting to linkage from cable.... The old 1600 or 510 throttle is fixed length. This from a later 710, will extend towards the carburetor. The part with the hook just above the plastic handle will extend out and fit an SU manifold.
  18. I realize with free you get what you pay for and it may have a shelf life. But PB were cunts. Their 'service' was always shit, always. Slow, loading and down loading, some days it didn't work at all and every year or less they would change everything and would take days and days to figure out and use it again. But I continued with it for years and years. Then I have to pay 400 to get them released? If they had come out and said they can't continue free any more it would have been easier to choke down. It's like cable TV you pay and pay but only watch one or two channels. Like I said only use it for the pictures I post here. PB .... just kill yourself. I'm much less bitter at PB now and doing well with my new free account elsewhere. Been a couple of years now and the only complaint is I haven't found a way to organize pictures in an album. Works excellent
  19. It's offered for FREE!!!!!! I don't feel entitled to free hosting, I didn't ask or demand free from some place, I just take advantage of it when it's there. Photobucket changed the rules and tried to fuck me and everyone else taking advantage of their service which was shitty to begin with. I can be pissed at them if I want to. They e-mailed me saying they were sorry, new management, blah blah blah. I told them to fuck off and went elsewhere. Best way to treat that behavior is to run them down every chance I get. I don't use it for anything else but pictures posted on Ratsun, I don't even know all the things I could use it for and don't. For this it's worth exactly.... free.
  20. 100 is quite low but if all cylinders are even and not burning oil it will run pretty well. I wouldn't want 120 or even 130. There may be a good reason it's been sitting for 10 years. Just worn out and burning oil. Squirt some oil in the spark plug holes an re-test. If it jumps up noticeably the rings are not sealing. If not much change, the valves and seats may be pitted and not sealing
  21. The thinnest spot is between cylinders but usually this widens to include one of the small coolant holes drilled between the cylinder walls. It can also just blow sideways into the water jacket. Compression leaks into the cooling system over pressurizing and expelling coolant into the coolant recovery bottle. Coolant can reverse into the cylinder after shut off. Exhaust smells sweet from the antifreeze and if bad enough or cold enough produce a steamy cloud. Coolant can't get into the oil through the head gasket but it can be pushed down past the rings and accumulate in the oil pan. Watch for unexplained coolant loss and top ups. Milky or cloudy oil. Steamy or sweet smelling exhaust. On a Z24 that is known for head gasket failures every 100k or so it's advised to re-torque the head bolts at least once a year to prevent gasket failure. Do this on a cold engine. Loosen one bolt several turns at a time and tighten to 60 ft lbs before moving to the next. Do one bolt at a time and you can do in any order you like and no chance of coolant escaping. Re-torquing keeps the gasket evenly crushed. I've removed some Z24 head bolts that were noticeably less tight than the others.
  22. Icehouse (Jeff) shoulders the entire cost of this forum, less what people may donate to his PayPal. He doesn't ask for money but is very thankful if it shows up. He told me how much a year once, and that was a long time ago, by now it must be close to $100 a month! Maybe more, I don't know. He believes a forum should be no different than being in your garage, having fun twisting wrenches, working on a Datsun and shooting the shit with a beer in hand. It's his wish that it not be used to sell advertising apace here and I for one applaud this. Thank you Jeff! Seems administering is a lot easier than it used to be. The old forums were full of spam and idiots trying to get in that got the boot but it was time consuming. Christ one morning before work I had to delete 34 new posts for love potions and spells from India. Find, erase it, find the IP address and ban it and the users name and password, say a minute each? The filters and fire walls are much better now. Now it's down to only reading all new member posts and approving it or not, moving posts, deleting accidental and intentional double posts, new passwords for those who have been away and forgot them, correcting the spelling of new post titles so that the search engine doesn't overlook it, etc. As of Sept 14 2018 or one year ago today, I have 4,865 private messages sent/received, many are administration requests to change, erase, open/close or adjust something.... most are just Datsun related questions. Back to 2007 there are over 78,000 messages or 6,500 a year so yeah this year is slower than average. I don't know what all the other mods and admins put in. We just keep our heads together an it rolling along.
  23. Looks like a KA24E chain and sprocket. If it is I didn't know they were the same lengths. My L, Z and KA24E cam sprockets. The KA on the right is thin and has no adjustment for chain stretch. I guess Nissan went this way to save a buck. I just went out and measured center of cam down to the bottom of the head on a Z24 and KA24E head. Both are withing 5mm or half a cent of each other, so a KA timing kit could theoretically work on a Z24 if the guides allow it. I don't think there is near enough chain slack for it to jump a tooth but it could have been put on incorrectly on the rebuild. There appear to be no cam timing marks on the sprocket so about all you could do is wedge the chain so the timing chain tensioner can't fall out and move it one ahead and one behind what it is now and see if it improves. A leak down test is much more definitive for where any lost compression went. Compression tests are unreliable, you may just have a low cylinder. It can point towards a blown gasket once badly blown out but not rule it out. Likely the gasket was failing and with the power so low from retarded timing it limped by, but as soon as it improved it blew out.
  24. We got them here, in April '71 although they may have started production in '70. There is a build date stamped into the tag on the driver's door jam. The first gen was built through '69 but this looks like the second gen or B110 aka 1200
  25. So how much off? I'm thinking a few degrees, not enough to make a difference. So it was running like shit before and now is worse.... this is classic blown head gasket. They only get worse over time.
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