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datzenmike

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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. It was info for readers that may have one of these engines laying around and not know it.
  2. They were used in all Z20 engines including the carburetor '80-'81 A10 and the '84-'86.5 720 truck
  3. They can be shipped cheaper than going for them. I'm sure there is a data base for wrecking yards who are members. You would ask it for what you want and it would search member's inventory to locate a car that might have what you want.
  4. Maybe a for sale ad here with LOTS of pictures....https://ratsun.net/classifieds/category/6-datsun-parts/
  5. No one will be making them because the market is obviously not there. This isn't a '69 RS Camaro. Best bet is a wrecking yard (there are thousands if you look far enough and you can do this on line) or you find one parked/abandoned, or you find a car for sale. It would appear the front L&R doors are the same for sedan and wagon but the rear doors are wagon specific. This is most likely due to the differences between the sedan and the wagon roof line. '81 through '84 should be the same.
  6. Check the bolt pattern but I think the L18 used a 340 style carburetor.
  7. Confirmed for L521 and PL521. Remove the pitman arm with a puller. Now I seem to remember there being a C clip that holds a washer then the seal is above that but.... maybe not. Get two suitably long drywall or wood screws and carefully hammer then into the metal shell of the seal and screw them in. Use vice grips to pull the seal down and off the sector shaft. Grease the new one and lightly hammer up into place till seated using a suitable diameter piece of pipe that will fit over the sector shaft but small enough to fit against the seal/
  8. I haven't missed one since 2010 or 11 but sadly will miss this one. Congrats in advance and best wished for a successful turn out.
  9. Yeah that's a 500 CFM carb when you only need just over 200. Too big and both barrels open at the same time so it's bound to bog badly. Jets are probably for a 6 or small V8. That '78 would be closer to what you want.
  10. Yes... R-1 Yamaha . There's a post from 10? years ago when this was popular. Maybe I need to read some more. Not complaining about the gauge, it seems to be doing what it does. Engine runs VERY well compared to the Hitachi. Just surprised that it is reading so rich.
  11. Uhhh I would avoid California Datsun. Haven't heard anything good about them.There are a couple of posts on it
  12. I found a large hose with a smaller harden hose stuffed in the end to get the two sizes on one L20B I had..
  13. Rod caps don't come off unless it was apart and put together wrong. Seen engine come apart because a bolt was overlooked and wasn't tightened. It would have made a lot of noise first, more than enough to tell the driver something was going to happen. Anyway, all that's cracked is the side of the block vent. Doesn't retain any coolant just seals in fumes and oil mist. Clean and degrease it, then grind a rough surface on both sides and JB weld it.
  14. I used to scoff that those who want to remove all that 'pollution crap' but gave up. I caution against it, but try to be helpful in that it should at least be done somewhat correctly. Just imagine an engine that runs perfectly fine that has the 'pollution crap' removed and now runs like shit, leaks oil from those little blue filters and stinks of gas in the cab. Mostly it's ignorance of what the pollution controls actually do. You always fear what you don't know. Datsuns had very rudimentary emissions equipment. Back then the engines simply made emissions and the controls just modified or cleaned the emissions up slightly. Today's 'fly by wire' emissions controls won't allow certain engine operations that produce emissions.
  15. Still will not start by itself. I pull the enrich lever all the way out but no start. I know this does something because when started and you shut it off the idle drops to normal. Squirt gas down each carburetor and away it goes. Idle is good. Pull away from a stop is insane! The old Hitachi carb seemed to transition badly from idle to primary. This set up leaps away, will try not giving it the gas and just let the clutch out. Lugged it down to 1,000 in 5th and stepped on it.... smooth pull away. SLOW... but smooth. Cruise with barely any throttle is high 14 and even 15.3 but as soon as you touch the gas it drops into the 12s. Floor it and will even go down to 9.6. I did drill the jets out to 1.8mm as recommended. Haven't moved the long tapered needles yet. Maybe lower them? s less fuel?? It drives just great!!! smooth with no lag or slow spots.
  16. Now you tell me. This is info that should have been included. I have no idea what Holly you have but I know that the 521 carburetor was like. A Holly 5200? Built under license from Weber? Or a 2 bbl for a 5 liter engine which is too large and probably the real problem?
  17. Back in the day, roads were dark in the center of the lane where the block vent pipe pointed down beside the engine. I guess it (the PCV) is really an anti pollution device but the benefits to engine and oil life far exceed this. Oil changes can be noticeably extended and the engine stays cleaner inside. Of course you can do as you please but why disconnect something that actively removes engine oil contaminants? Like I said they've been on cars since '62 because they work.
  18. Yet every engine made since '62 has a PCV valve and it's well documented that there are zero disadvantages to using one. They don't gum up valves on a non direct injection engine because the carburetor or EFI washes them clean with gas... and excellent solvent. Unless fresh air is drawn through the engine, displacing water and gas fumes as well as combustion blow-by, you are missing out completely on these free benefits. Your engine oil stays cleaner last longer and remains freer of water condensation, no oily mess and smell in the engine compartment and cab.
  19. Easier to fix the carburetor. You say high speeds it falls on it's face? Probably not getting enough fuel. 1/Look at the glass front of the carburetor while idling. Is the fuel level at the horizontal line? Or close to it? 2/ This could simply be a dirty, part plugged fuel filter. At high speeds more gas is used by the engine than can get through the blocked filter. If you have never changed the fuel filter do so now. They are cheap and no harm done if this does not help you. 3/A partly blocked primary or secondary jet can also produce the same symptoms. Remove the carburetor and look under the float chamber for two 12mm metal plugs that cover the primary and secondary jets. This carburetor is upside down so the brass jet shown up inside is the secondary. You'll need a flat blade screw driver that will fit the jet but also narrow enough to reach up inside. I had to grind one down for this. They look like this with a small easily plugged hole in the center and small number stamped on them. Check that they are clean. Do NOT mix them up they will interchange. Primary jets are 'around' 99 and secondary around 150 so the larger hole goes in the secondary position.
  20. Generally when Nissan makes an alternator they are used on several different cars and engines so the mounts are different but the alternators are basically the same.
  21. This is not the exact thing but more or less what you need. The block vent pipe is joined to the PCV valve that is screwed into the intake by a hose as shown... The PCV valve is totally benign in operation and uses a small amount of intake vacuum to draw fuel and water vapors as well as combustion blow-by that gets past the rings from the the crankcase. Left, these vapors will condense as the engine cools and it pollutes the oil requiring it to be changed more often. Vapors are drawn into the intake and burned with the fuel and air. Air that is drawn out of the crankcase is replaced with filtered air from the air filter housing to the top of the valve cover inlet. Under certain heavy load and low intake vacuum conditions the blow-by exceeds the PCV's ability and the flow of air reverses out the valve cover vent and to the carburetor inlet where it is sucked in and burned. This way it is a closed system and no vapors or smell escapes.
  22. Plugs are metric thread. I just pulled them from another newer KA24E intake. The exhaust plugs I took one of the pipes with me to a fastener store and matched it to the one shown. I see someone has already deleted the EGR but the bolt on manifold is still there. When removing it try hard to keep the PCV valve and the block vent connected.
  23. That's the coil as Matt said but it's not the stock coil so who knows how well it's made or how effective it is? The Pennzoil thing means someone has deleted the PCV valve and stuck an oil breather on the block vent. The engine venting into the engine compartment is caused by this set up. If I were you I get that replaced to stock condition. Less smell and your oil and engine will last longer.
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