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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. datzenmike

    Used to run great

    You have dual points? I think the '73 does. Both points need to be gaped at about 0.020". One is advanced and one retarded. Is it possible that you switched the wires to the points? If two condensers disconnect both and test the engine. This is to see if the condenser is the cause of your problems.
  2. Oh the pump, missed that. Black/Yellow 12v and ground the other wire. Sorry.
  3. Aluminum block and heads 215 Olds. GM eventually sold this engine to Rover and it may still be being used today. Good choice as it's lighter than a KA or VG engine and 3.5 (almost) liters.
  4. Blue/Red stripe is 12v power. Black is ground. Grounding the Blue/White will give you high speed .... which is good enough for a test. However the wiper will stop where ever it is when you disconnect the ground. To park the blades at the bottom of the windshield, connect the Blue wire to the Blue/Yellow and hold till the motor stops. Then disconnect the 12v`
  5. 200mm is 200mm and only the diameter. They will bolt to a 5 or 6 bolt crank flywheel. However an L20B 200mm probably will need the release collar for it and not the 200mm for an L16. There are obvious differences in 200mm pressure plates. I can't find 30501-0H600 used on anything but the '95 and up 240sx and Hardbody and the '99-2000 Xterra All with KA engines. I've seen that chart for the 200mm applications 8'73 to 5'79 and it would have to be for an L18 or L20B car. Nothing else used a 200mm PP. I even checked the Z car and 810 (all 225mm) and the B-210. I have to conclude that it was an mistake. The 50301-N1600 uses from 7'81..... there were no 200mmpressure plates used from this year on, the engines were too big for them. The '80-'81- 200sx (Z20) and the A10 Z20 were the last. The N1600 was used only on the 225mm PPs. If you can find a year and application of a 0H600 or an N1600 being used on a 200mm PP by all means be my guest.
  6. datzenmike

    Used to run great

    Points gap is 0.018" to 0.021" Check #2 and #3 wires may be swapped. I know you checked... check again. Plugs are NGK BP6ES gaped to 0.030". ONLY use NGK!!!!!!!!! Disconnect the condenser and try it. Pull a plug wire and put an old plug in the end and lay on a grounded surface. Turn the engine over with the starter. What's the spark look like? Never throw old parts away. You can always clean them and use in an emergency.
  7. This was the original intention. Fix the blown HG and, I assume, get it running not half re-build it. Running, you can do a compression check and assess if it needs to be re-built... or not
  8. When the engine cools the choke coil shrinks and tries to pull the choke flap closed but the throttle (at idle) stops this. Stepping on the gas releases the choke so it can close. The fast idle is connected to the choke by a linkage. Choke on... fast idle on. Choke off ... fast idle off. You may simply have to bend the linkage slightly to move the fast idle up a step. If you adjust the speed screw, when it gets cold it will automatically go up one or more steps and the idle will be screaming. The fast idle is set at the factory and should never needs adjusting.
  9. 5 bolt flywheels are L16 and L18 all others are 6 bolt. The clutch diameter depends on the pressure plate mounting bolt holes on the flywheel surface. 5 bolt crank L16 use 200mm 5 bolt crank L18s almost always use a 200mm but there is one exception that uses a 225mm. All 6 bolt crank flywheels below will interchange. 6 bolt crank L20Bs and Z20s cars use a 200mm 6 bolt crank L20B and Z22s in trucks use a 225mm 6 bolt crank Z22 in cars use a 225mm 6 bolt crank Z20 and Z24 trucks use a 240mm 6 bolt crank KA24s in cars are 225mm 6 bolt crank KA24s in trucks are 240mm N1600 is for a 225mm pressure plate. You sure it isn't N1601??? that for a 521/510 and '73 L16 200mm pressure plate. 0H600 is for a 225mm or 240mm KA in a 240sx or D21 3, 4 or 5 speed is irrelevant to what clutch size or release collar you want to use. The collar is mated to the pressure plate and not the transmission and have no connection what ever to each other.
  10. Wait 5K before bothering with the fast idle. The engine will probably loosen up and then you'll have to turn it down. Fast idle is 1,800 to 2,200. Yes, carbs with chokes have to be pumped at least once for a cold start. This sets the choke and squirts raw fuel into the intake. On exceptionally cold days 2 or 3 pumps help.
  11. If you knew this engine had been rebuilt in the recent past or was a low mileage runner that could be saved... maybe. Right now it's a total unknown. Gluing the pan on will just make it harder to get off later. I see no wisdom in ball honing a worn cylinder (that may be tapered or out of round) and rings (possibly seized, broken or tired and not controlling compression or oil) hoping this will fix anything that might be wrong. It will either run well enough as is or it won't.
  12. You WILL introduce toe in when lowering or raising. It's impossible not to and you will introduce some bump steer and camber. Bump steer isn't adjustable on the truck you can adjust some camber out but it's intended for fine tuning the truck when at the proper ride height and not severe lowering.
  13. Proper charge is about 14v when running. Red charge light means no or very low charge. Alternator tests probably don't add any load to the alternator so it might 'test' good but still fail to do the job. Be sure your connections are snug and the plastic two wire plug is in good shape. Running rich is probably the choke not shutting off fully because the alternator isn't charging. If you have vacuum advance I would connect it and use it.
  14. It does come apart and I may have forgotten something.
  15. Ginger or Mary Anne? If rated like engine oil the w is a winter viscosity rating in that it's 'thinner when cold so it flows easier but still has the higher temperature 90 viscosity when hot.
  16. Variations in carburetor mixture screws, the 'tune' of your engine, temperature, timing, humidity, idle speed makes setting your mixture solely on the number of turns impractical. The same applies to the idle speed.
  17. I don't see anything on the link. Not joining e-bay to find out. Got anything else?
  18. The O2 sensor can't work with a Weber carb. It's a mixture feedback signal to the ECU under the driver's seat that sets the opening and closing of the solenoid activated primary jet in the ECC carb. The Weber won't have this. It's good that it passed though.
  19. I have a feeling this is an old well worn engine and not worth the bother right now. Hasn't been seen running, no compression numbers, no history, just a probable rebuildable block with a blown HG (or intake leaking coolant) Looks like it sat some time with water in the cylinder(s) and some of the exhaust ports are sooty for burning something. Honing the worn cylinders with worn rings and checking the bearings is beating a dead horse only to find you have to rebuild it any way. So fire it up and see, or dive in all the way and use it for a proper rebuild.
  20. Headlight, wiper switch pull all the way out, grip low on the stem with needle nose pliers and hold tight. Push knob in towards the dash and twist to remove. Don't forget to unscrew the cigar lighter socket, radio knobs. Once the cluster is loose push some of the speedometer cable into the cab so it can move towards the steering wheel and you can reach up behind ans unscrew it.
  21. Well you'll have plenty of compression (just over 10) so lightly round off any edges in the combustion chamber. Doesn't have to be much, just sandpaper them. You could polish the combustion chamber after with compounds and soft wheel. Try for mirror finish. This will reduce deposits sticking and the likelihood of a hot spot causing pre ignition. You might find a colder range plug will help with reducing ping. Higher compression will burn faster so the timing may need to be backed off as well. Generally higher compression (without pre ignition) is a more efficient way to capture energy and turn it into motion. The increase in mileage can off set the added cost of a higher octane fuel.
  22. datzenmike

    Uk datty 720

    Yue Loong built 510s so probably 620s as well. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yulon
  23. That's different. This was slid into channels for stiffness. It was floppy without it.
  24. L series transmissions 4 and 6 cylinder... F4W63, F4W63L, FS5W63A, F4W71A, F4W71B, FS5W71B, FS5R90A all the same input spline. 280z or 280zx??? Mid ratio if 280z or the first year ('79) 280zx, '80-'83 280zx are close ratio. You can narrow this down by placing in first and marking the input and output splines. Have someone count the output turns while you turn the input 20 times. 5.5 turns is a wide ratio (not likely if a z car 5 speed) 6 turns is a mid ratio and has a 13.6% overdrive 5th. 6.5 turns is a close ratio and has a 25.5% over drive 5th.. The close ratio should be no problem in a tuck with 4.375 differential.
  25. Hold the throttle half open and turn the outer case of the choke heater. The choke flap should close. The problem is that it isn't very cold right now so you will probably need to adjust richer or more tightly closed in the winter. Choke should warm up in under 5 min. Maybe it's just sticking? Spray everything down with WD-40 and work the linkages while holding the throttle about half way open to release the fast idle cam.You need a 12v supply to make the heater warm up and turn off. A test light touched to the wire at the choke heater will confirm you have power. The engine HAS to be running for this.
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