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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. This is the build date. 12/81 is December of '81, just before it changes to '82. However this is NOT the model year of any truck. As the model year begins around June of the previous summer 12/81 is an '82 model year built in December of '81. Always use the build date as there are 6 months of '82s built in '81. Confused? don't be. 10 x 1 3/4" is the drum diameter and width, or by extension the shoe size that fit this.
  2. This won't be good enough. Eight and 4 and the rotor pointing is very rough and only for making sure you are on or near the compression stroke. Usually the timing marks on the pulley are used. Failing that a pencil in the spark plug hole and watch the piston push it up and stop and go back down again. Find the highest position but get help with this. Put it together as best you can and then start setting the TDC more accurately. After this is perfect the cam position can be checked and if needed, adjusted. #1 valves will be closed on the compression stroke but #4 is just finishing the exhaust stroke and beginning the intake. At TDC exhaust is almost closed and the intake just opening. They are both very slightly open and this is called valve overlap.
  3. 5-7 miles per hour at exactly what speed? Find out what it is at 50 and 2X that is the percent. For example 55 MPH at 50 is 10%. If you had a 17 tooth gear, divide that into a 19 tooth and you get just under 12% which would slow you half that (6 MPH) at 50 or 49... which is damn close. The automatic has the correct number of teeth on the speedo pinion to match the differential ratio. Only way to fix is change the differential or the gear. Messing with the speedometer? I don't know. Easier to change to the correct gear but not as easy to find one.
  4. Someone dig MJ up? Actually he looks good....
  5. The 71B and the D21's 71C are almost identical front cases. Both use the 240mm clutch but just to be sure keep your release bearing collar that goes with the clutch you are using now. The D21 trans case front drive shaft is more offset to the left than the T100 but you're changing everything anyway. This will maybe be a tight tunnel fit.
  6. Maybe the valve guides are worn oval?
  7. You know.... 9 may be as low as the gauge can measure. Probably in the 8s.
  8. Will mark it on the 'Holidays' area on the white board at work. So how hard would this have been for DNW to do?
  9. The D21 Hardbody has the transmission and the transfer case in one unit where the 720 is divorced and linked by a small drive shaft. Yes, a KA24E or DE and the Z series engines have almost the exact same tilt so it will bolt up nicely. All input splines are the same @ 24
  10. This may also be a 4 speed. They were standard and the 5 speed an option up until October '83 when only 5 speeds were available form then on.
  11. Pump stands upright and bolted to side of frame, looks like can of beer. Is this what you have? Other than stock is always suspect... may be too high a pressure. The stock pump is self regulated to about 3 - 3 1/2 PSI
  12. Only the '79 with air conditioning had the electric fuel pump, and it was located on the outside of the rear right frame just forward of the rear tire. All others had the mechanical pump on the front right side of the head. Webers are sensitive to too much fuel pressure so 3 PSI or just under is probably best. If it was running well but suddenly started having problems then this narrows down the possabilities, this is much different from never having run properly where anything could be wrong.
  13. Wasn't the E engine similar to the J series? A lot of MG stuff will fit the J series also. Keep trying.
  14. After April '85 they were Z24i or throttle body injection. I think new they are $75-$80 so don't pay more. #2 fuse is auto choke heater and idle cut solenoid. I opnly have an '84 FSM. Not much on the high altitude and nothing that looks like yours.
  15. Buy it and make it work.
  16. Maybe even a piece of the fire ring on the gasket, if that was where the gasket failed. Put the valves back in to protect the seats and lightly sand or wire wheel any sharp edges off. Only takes a few seconds. Carbon will fill in the pits. Lightly wire wheel the carbon off the ports near the seats too. This won't have hurt the piston, they are about 15% 'glass' and very hard. How are you determining the valves are bent?
  17. Check your master has a residual valve in it. It's up under the large nut that the front brake line threads into. Tajke the line off and loosen/remove the nut. Up inside is a valve and a spring. It's job is to retain about 2-3 PSI of brake line pressure on the front pads.
  18. Buzzing auto choke heater relay is common. One of the inputs that keeps the relay on is a charge signal from the alternator. Usually it a badly charging alternator or one with even one bad diode. Not enough for the red light to be fully on. Gas in the line? Are you sure it's connected to the correct carburetor pipe and not the fuel bowl vent? I highly recommend getting a factory service manual (FSM) produced by Nissan. NOT a Haynes or Chilton's. Look on line at e-Bay. Be sure to get your year. The other books cover all 7 1/2 years of 720 and isn't very precise about your year. Pys for itself the first 1/2 hour you use it.
  19. The dimmer isn't responsible for the rear running lights. That must be something else.
  20. Perfect! My odyssey starts in a couple of months when cooler for traveling.
  21. Right. Not the stock carburetor so can't help you there. Make sure the block off plate isn't leaking air in. Biting too much oil? What do you mean?
  22. Wires always too short. Most common is the 2-3 wires switched. This is the difference between clockwise and the correct counter clockwise turning of the distributor. Easiest way to remember is to get those sticky wrap spark plug numbers for the wires.😄
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