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datzenmike

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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. True. My new '76 B 210 had this and I thought the stiff black thing was the electrical wire until I pulled it out and looked. There was one bulb in a container with four or five 'wires' going to the switches and the ash tray. 'state of the art' now we have LEDs do you see the light? DO YOU SEE THE LIGHT??.... James Brown in 'The Blues Brothers'
  2. The reason the L20B one looks so good is that it comes out of the top of the baffle and not the side like the L16 (L18 similar?) Even if you could fit it in the side, it might still hit the back side of the pipes. Can you slide an oil resistant (neoprene) sleeve on to the L20B pipe end, and press it into the larger L18 hole? Like a piece of thin wall hose, but fits snugly into there. Neoprene 'O' rings come in different sizes and thicknesses, several should keep it from wriggling. Just take your pipe with you and slip some rubber over the end. lol
  3. datzenmike

    smog crap

    Gentlemen, first let me say, that it's easier to keep the EGR system working properly than to take it off. If it's the 'trendy thing to do', OR you want an 'un-cluttered look' well that's up to you, but I've yet to see any claims of performance or economy gains from this. You wouldn't take your appendix out because it might cause trouble later, right? And what about your PCV valve that also connects to the EGR manifold you removed? Where do you hook that up to now? Well, if you've made up your mind, read no further. The EGR is a valve on your intake, and if it doesn't close properly, it will act like a vacuum leak and performance (a little) and idle will suffer. Usually this is caused by carbon deposits that can be brushed off to fix... easy. The EGR valve is closed by a spring in it's rest or off position and requires a vacuum source to open it. Disconnecting this source is the easiest way to disable the EGR from working and its removal and making a cover plate and gasket and removing the exhaust stove pipe and crimping, is, (besides being un-necessary) way too much work. It may also be illegal to modify this system, and difficult to find the parts to put it back in working condition. As I said, it's easier to keep it, just disconnect it. (well plug one of the vacuum lines actually), that way visually, the system appears intact. Which brings me to, why disconnect it at all? If it's working, you can't tell, it's only if it fails to close properly that there may be problems.
  4. You know only about 80 '68 Dart and Barracudas were ever built into Hemi racers. They were not licensed for the street at all. They were delivered without paint, side glass, window windups (windows were of Lexan plastic and lifted by hand and held by Velcro) The body panels were welded but no sealer to save weight, no radio no heater or controls, no seats (driver's seat was a light Dodge van seat) no wipers, no electrical wiring, sound deadener or mirrors, motors, transmissions or rear ends, the doors and fenders were stamped out of thinner metal and a fiberglass hood was used. There can't be too many left out there and and I'll bet more and more are 'discovered' in the future. I can't believe what those idiots at Barret Jackson pay for these things. Simply the rich ripping off the rich, so go ahead I just laugh at them. I had a small muscle car back in the day and had too much fun in it and many memories. You can't buy a piece of that at auction, for any price, you have to be there and do it.
  5. What constitutes a 'pre smog' 620? All 620s had some smog control on them starting with a PCV valve, warmed intake air (ATC), dual points, evaporative control (carbon canister), BCCD, on and on. If you mean pre ERG, then before '74. The biggest problem with the EGR system is that people don't keep them in proper running condition and that causes problems. In very simple terms vacuum is applied to the valve to open it and allow exhaust to enter the intake to reduce the combustion temperatures. That's it. It should not to be open when the motor is cold or idling, only at speed when warm. Carbon deposits can build and prevent the valve from closing properly (similar to an intake vacuum leak and will affect idling). To fix, just remove and wirebrush it clean. If a vacuum line falls off or is blocked in the EGR system, the EGR will simply stop working and remain in the closed position, that's all. As long as the valve is clean and seals properly you won't know it there or doing it's job, so leave the vacuum lines connected. If it is dirty and not closing properly, removing the vacuum lines won't change anything and the idle will still be rough. It's easier to look after it, than to replace the manifold or block it off. If I was going to disable my EGR I would simply put a plug in the vacuum line from the carb, done. And if inspected, it appears to be a fully complete and opperating system.
  6. Ther's smog tests on the lower mainland but not out here on the island. Lots of fresh air blowin' in off the Pacific.
  7. They have a very good rep to hold up so they probably don't want to mess with that. They'll probably continue. The suit alleges Sears using patriotism to sell their products which is pretty low. A good tool sells itself anyways. Maybe they were totally U S made at one time?
  8. datzenmike

    Mufflers?

    I have the stock exhaust on my truck L20B back to the torsion bar mounts then several short pieces slipped over top of each other, getting bigger and bigger until I could fit the 2 1/8 inlet of a new muffler shop muffler on it and clamped it down. I guess they put it on and got the pipe stuck or something and had to throw it out in the dumpster, brand new, never used! I put a short half elbow pointing down on it, no tail pipe. I've found that an oversize muffler and no tail pipe, or a short one, has a low tone to it at idle and VERY reasonable sound when driving. You would think a larger muffler would be quieter but I don't think it is. I once put duals on my brother's 318 Challenger. The single exhaust was whisper quiet, the duals had the sweetest sub rumble ever!!
  9. Suit Hits Sears "Made In USA" Claim December 8, 2004 A class action lawsuit against Sears, Roebuck and Co alleges that Sears conducted false advertising and consumer fraud by advertising that its Craftsman tool line is "Made in the USA." The suit alleges that promotions in ads, the website, on signs and labels claiming that Craftsman is "Made in the USA" led consumers to purchase the tools out of a sense of patriotism. Consumers were also led to believe that Craftsman is of high quality because it is "Made in the USA." Pictures attached to the complaint show metal parts from Austria, Denmark, China, India and Mexico on Craftsman tools labeled as "Made in the USA." "Sears has falsely touted Craftsman tools as 'Made in the USA' when the Federal Trade Commission has issued guidelines stating that such a claim is proper only where all or substantially all of the product is U.S.A. made. Sears Craftsman is misleading consumers by invoking that claim," said Barbara J. Hart, attorney for the tool buyers. The lawsuit, which seeks class-action status and unspecified damages, was filed last week in New York State Supreme Court in Manhattan. Tool buyers Kenneth Vigiletti, Sidney Hyatt and Elaine Hyatt are the plaintiffs named in the suit.
  10. Don't forget the round seal in the cover for the crankshaft, and there's 40-50 lbs of oil pressure at the oil pump gaskets too.
  11. Sorry I had to leave in a hurry and didn't finish. In the picture the right hand tranny is a Borg warner T-5 from a 280zx (technically an L series ). The one on the left is a regular truck or 280z car long tail 5 spd and looks identical to the Z series 5 spd but for the center line rib being closer to the left (driver's) side bolt hole. You can just make out the rib and where the bolt hole would be. As I said the Z series would have the rib over to the right (passenger) side. Just remember 'LEFT is an L' series and you can't go wrong.
  12. The torsion bars can take it. It's a truck, designed to carry a payload of upwards of what, 800 lbs. The L16/18 weighs about 260 lbs, the Z24 about 100 lb more. I found a weight for a V6 but it said 260 lbs and seemed low,but with aluminum heads... who knows.
  13. Jeff would know more about this, but I think the shifter rods are a different diameter and would be too small on the L?
  14. The 200sx with the Z20E from '80 and '81, with the Z22E from '82 and '83. The 720 truck with the Z22(S) from '81,'82,'83, with the Z20(S) from '84,'85,'86, with the Z24(S) from '84'85'86, and with the Z24i from '86,'87,'88. The HL 510's had the same Z series motors around the same years as the 200sx's and were (S) or carb I believe. I don't know the years. The visual difference between them is the 12-15 degree tilt, or twist between the L and Z series motors. I don't have a picture but they are very easy to tell apart: (I'll assume that the tranny is out, or you could just look at the motor. lol) Place the tranny on ground in it's up-right operating position, and stand above and behind it at the shifter looking toward the 'engine'. Look along the top of the tranny, along an imaginary center line and follow that line to the beginning bulge of the bell housing. At this point on the bell there is a casting rib or ridge, that continues this center line up to where the back of the motor would be. Now on either side of this rib there is a bolt hole that is used to bolt the tranny to the engine. On the Z series transmission the bolt hole to the right of the rib is closer than the other one. On the L series transmission the bolt hole to the left is closer to the rib than the other one. Confused? Just remember... the rib, when closest to the left bolt hole is L series.... LEFT is L series. Not a very good picture, but the one on the left is an L series. You can see the rib and that it's closer to the bolt hole on the left if you were looking down the length of it. The rib would closer to the pass. side bolt hole if it was a Z series.
  15. I always told my wife I was 'visualizing' when ever she catches me. It's called a thousand foot stare on a 50 foot lot, Brian. lol
  16. I posted this on the Realm because of some $90 rad hoses.......... I got an original '78 620 truck tire and rim and it has the original factory air in it from Japan.... only $85 (air only). Perfect for topping up your original 510 tires if you want to be that original. This is truck air so that's why the price is so low, but it is from Japan.
  17. As long as they replace without hassles, I'm good with that. It doesn't happen often but you're always in the middle of something and want it replaced fast and on a weekend.
  18. As long as they are guaranteed for life and if you take one back and they replace without bitchin', and you don't have to drive too far to do this, I say, good to go!! I replaced a friend's V6 head gasket for a set of deep sockets, woot! I use Canadian Tire and have replaced the 3/8 ratchet at least 4-5 times, not that they aren't any good, it's from tall the abuse I put them through. They usually replace the ratchet drive, but the last time they were all out, so they just handed me a brand new one off the shelf. There's a store near by and one in most big towns across Canada so replacement is easy. I watch the fliers and got my set 1/2 price. A week later it went up to $220. I find the Snap-On tools fine, great tools even, I just can not get over the friggin' price. They break just as easily as any others but I don't have to wait till Monday to replace anything. They are like driving a Hummer, you're just telling everyone you can afford it.
  19. Briefly my plan is to install a Z20E head with the EFI from an '80 or '81 200sx on my L20B engine block. Later I want to rebuild a Z24 and swap the EFI onto it. Lately it has become clear that the Z20E head has to be much larger than the L 20B head which is 45.3cc, and will result in a compression of about 7.4 if I put it on as it is. But how much bigger is it? Well there are many way to enlightenment, grasshopper. Here's another very low tech and cheap. One clear plastic front half of an old CD case, and at the pharmacy, ask for a liquid medicine syringe, (not the one with a needle) but for giving medicine to children. It's plastic with a plunger and holds 10cc. I told them what I needed and what it was for, and they gave it to me for nothing. Take the CD case and trim the raised edge off of it, so it will lay flat on the cylinder head. Drill a small hole large enough for the syringe to fit into, about 1/2" from the edge. You are now done and can cc your own and your friend's heads, at home or even in a junk yard if you want. How easy was that? Method: For best results the surface of the head around the chamber must be smooth, clean and dry, so if you're not at home take a wire brush. If it's an overhead cam, turn till the valves are closed (did a Z24 and the spring pressure sealed the valves just fine) If the valves are out, apply a little wheel bearing grease on the valve face and install in the guides (the grease will hold them in place and seal them too) Apply a little grease around the edge of the chamber with your finger, lay the CD case on top, making sure that you have the hole right over at the edge, and press down. The grease will squish, so you can see that you have a good seal. Tilt the head up slightly on the side with the hole, fill the syringe from a glass of water, making sure there are no bubbles, and inject into the chamber, keeping track of how many times you fill it up. As it gets close to full you may have to rock or tilt the head to get the air bubble out but the grease will hold the cover in place. I cc'd a Z20E, Z22S, and a Z24 head Sunday afternoon, did them twice to be sure. It was fast and easy. My cc kit is totally transportable, accurate to 1/10 cc (on the syringe), very low tech but repeatable results, cheap.
  20. That's the beauty of a positive displacement supercharger, the boost is there as fast as you can open the throttle. There is no spool up and no delay. The down side is lugging it around when not in use and it's rotational mass.
  21. That can't be right, can it? Surely not all these cars are, or can be insured and on the road. This 42% must include all autos made prior to '73, many now derelict in fields and in back yards.
  22. I worked for GM in '73, the year that compression was lowered. On really cold night shifts, the new '74 owners in the employee's parking lot always had to come back to the guard's shack to get the battery and cables to boost their brand new low compression cars. My 4 year old Charger always started.
  23. If addresses were available, what's to stop thieves from targeting a specific year or model? It would be like a shopping list. I don't want my address out there and I don't want unsolicited calls from people. Present company very accepted, lol.
  24. KC1, mine blew two weekends ago. Pass side #4, gasket split from the cylinder through the water jacket and on out through the side beside the heater hose. No warning and no reason, 300,000 Km and never touched the motor till now. Wierd eh?
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