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datzenmike

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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. While the rears are out remove the pinion mate shaft from the differential case by removing the roll pin that holds it in. This will allow the two pinion mate gears and thrust washers to fall out which in turn will allow the two side gears, (with the wrong spline count) room to be removed. Replace with the 510 ones and re-assemble. The 510 axles will now be fitting onto their own 510 side gears.
  2. I briefly had an '84 Maxima wagon, it also had coils in the back with big ass sway bar. Drum brakes.
  3. Rest easy, TerriLynn. Paul's a good guy and we've got his back.
  4. On the '79 matchbox, there should be a Blue and a Black/White wire. The Blue goes to the neg side of the coil AND to the tach in the dash. The Black/White goes to the pos side of coil AND to the ON in start and run position, in the ignition switch. (power)
  5. Find out if the solid rear axle has an H190 rear gear in it. If so the truck rear gears will fit and give you a 4.11, 4.375, 4.625 and even higher. This would allow you to 'get into it' sooner, RPM wise. Won't affect mileage around town much, but gives an added kick in the ass take off. A few hours work to do and you don't have to touch the motor. Motor modifications will dovetail nicely with this later on.
  6. I've only seen the 4X4s with leaves above the axle. Lowering will allow for less travel before hitting something. Seems prudent to stiffen them too. What about a trip to the 'yard'? Lots of rear spring sets there. Select a fairly flat set, same width but can be thicker. Leave the front and rear shackle on the car, unbolt the U bolts and jack the axle tube up out of the way. Carefully remove the center locating pin and allow the lower leaves to drop away. Add flatter leaves or mix 'n match leaves to get the drop and stiffness you want. The original long top spring stays, you just add a flatter spring or two under, that will sit lower and add stiffness. Try for the same number of springs so the pin will reach through them. I did this on my truck but for extra height. Kept the top Datsun spring, added F-150 lower springs, instant 5" higher.
  7. Solid axle w/coils? The second gen 200sx '80-'83 had that AND rear disc brakes too! It had an H165B axle in it and sway bar. Would the rear coils give you the stiffness you want?
  8. I suspect that the '78 brakes would be the same as the 200sx of that year (which had the same calipers as the 620 truck) I believe. If not a match, maybe the 200sx ones would fit on the 510... nice up grade. The rears had leaf springs like the older 510 wagons, so the truck differential with 4:11 and 4:375 ratios would fit. (with side gear swap) 5spds were available as an option after '77 the '78 might have even had a short tail dogleg tranny OR an old lady 3N71B automatic more likely.
  9. Mmmmm 36s http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/75dat4X4.jpg[/img]"] http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/01570023.jpg[/img]"]
  10. Actually the pink tractor helps.:lol: All kidding aside, I like it. If your wife accepts it, and you, keep her too.
  11. What are you wanting this truck to do? If off-roading, you will want low and mid range power. Going to larger tires is unavoidable for this, but it will cut into what low speed torque you do have. To preserve off road, and especially on road performance, a lower gear set (higher numerically) is in order. As Doug said the rear axles are pulled outward, the gear set pulled as a unit and another installed, the axles put back in. There should be no spline problem as far as the axles go. The front diff. is more problematic. Never, never , never over cam a motor. It moves the power and torque sometimes thousands of RPMs higher in the rev range and leaves the idle and low speed, (where you do most of your driving) severely lacking. Never, never over carburate a motor. A motor's needs should me matched to carb size. An L20 B at full throttle and 8,000 RPMs requires 282 CFM. To use a 500 CFM carb would require the poor L20B to turn in excess of 13,000 RPMs to use all of it. If bigger carbs made more power we would all be running 1050 double pumper Holleys, right? There are some slight gains to using a slightly larger carb, but it is mostly from a lowering of restriction. The engine doesn't have to suck as hard to get air and fuel. A 32/36 Weber is more than enough for a 2 liter motor. The right hand side is the T-5 B/W Zcar tranny beside a FS5W71B that would have come in your '80 truck. The T-5 is very much wider. http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/BorgWarner4-2.jpg[/img]"] Get a much milder cam and a Weber 32/36. This will immediately give you back your drivability. Forget performance, it's a 4X4, it weighs too much for an L20B to pull. Even Nissan quickly switched to the Z22 the next year. This motor was designed for bottom end power and torque. Over 15% increase in torque and at half the RPMs of the L20B! That's stump pulling power at low speed to pull that heavy truck up hills.
  12. Jason, I have an '80 5spd and it's long... but it's also from a 4X4. I wonder if the 2wd 5spd is short in the 720s. The reason I say this is, this kid up the road wanted help, his tranny would grind going into gear. I tried to tell him it was clutch related, BUT NO!! Took his tranny to the wreckers and got a 5spd from a Z22 4X4 and it was the wrong length. I didn't stick around. Doug, all the Canadian 720 4X4s here are divorced with the separate T-100 transfer cases. Only seen the others in D-21s and Pathfinders. I have an '80 4X4 5spd and it is long tail, so a short shaft to the transfer case. At one time I did have a long shaft (:D) I traded for a short. Here's the one I use now but there are longer ones and much smaller diameter. http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/00270010-1.jpg[/img]"] None of the Z24 motor 2 or 4wd trannys are short that I have ever seen, however the earlier '81 and '82 even the '80, may have had long or short 5spd trannys in them.
  13. Ask Bleach, he mentioned a booster for the clutch in one of the Z cars? or something? As for the booster. The 720 booster can supply and operating line pressure of well over 1,900 PSI for a pedal pressure of 130Lbs. input. Way too much (I think). Probably a smaller 620 m/c with booster mounted on the floor or between the seats, or under? Bicycle hand brake cable and lever mounted on shifter? You would have to trial and error to get the correct amount of travel versus the effort on a hand lever. An automatic is looking a lot easier!:D:D:D
  14. Dave, that's what this guy says!!! He had a 720 5spd, and got a replacement tranny, it fit right in but the switches are in different spots and he can't seem to find 5th gear. Maybe it's a 4 gear?
  15. If you sell it, what will you use?
  16. A larger diameter booster will not fit well beside the 620 clutch master or the steering column even on that little pedestal. The 720s had a huge booster on a much longer pedestal but have lots of clearance for the air filter as it's on the other side of the motor. Here is a booster with 7/8" m/c from an S11: http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/DSC01237.jpg[/img]"] This is from an '80- '82? 720 http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/DSC01232.jpg[/img]"] And this is from an '83- ? with 15/16" m/c : http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/DSC01238.jpg[/img]"]
  17. I'll be on a road trip, but there in spirit.
  18. I like the look. There's an orange one near me (710???)but I haven't seen it for some time. A little old lady drives (auto) past me while I'm working and it takes me by surprise. Usually near the hospital so maybe she does volunteer work?? Should go and ask around. There's an old guy in town named Joe who has a 620. It runs but doesn't move for months at a time. The old boy talks through a hole in his throat with this vibrator thing. Doesn't really need the truck but csn't bring himself to sell either. I asked if he would leave it to me in his will and he laughed through the hole. Weird, but he's an alright guy. Told him I'd drop by every year or so in case he changes his mind. Couldn't let mine go either but maybe some young'n will ask and I'll leave it to him.
  19. datzenmike

    74 620

    There are differences between a disc and a drum master cylinder. There is a residual pressure valve to keep a slight pressure in the system. On drum brakes where the shoe has to travel some distance to reach the inside of the drum a residual pressure of 10 lbs is common but disc brake pads that are in contact with the rotor are usually about 2 lbs. the wrong valve would cause the disc pads to rub excessively when not in use. I guess the valve could be changed or a rear disc brake master could be used. Some of the 280 zx cars had rear disc brakes I think.
  20. Could not agree more with the above quote! May the new year be filled with long straight, or twisty roads. (as you prefer) May they have no man hole covers, but be covered instead, in sparks. May you all have a Datsun part under the tree, Christmas morn. Thanks to Thomas, Jeff, Bleach and ]2eDeYe (and others) for the fore site to start this web site and the willpower to see it through, and to the members who's contributions make it such a success. Happy holidays, King Rat
  21. phatdave's mystery dogleg. Didn't we think it was from a Z car because of the tranny mount, but recently think it may be from a 910/Maxima because they share the Z car platform???. Has a 63aA cast into it. http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/Tranny/transphatdaveunknownZtransmaybeMaxi.jpg[/img]"] I have this one down as 'long tail 63A dogleg from an 810' http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/Dogleglongtail63afroman810L24.jpg[/img]"] I'm hoping for a picture from another forum that shows a long tail dogleg that fits a NAPS Z engine, and will post it when I get it. He describes the correct pattern, but you never know.
  22. I have my dad's '90 Sundance now and plan a road trip across Canada next week!!! These seats don't recline! The last winter road trip like this was 15 years ago in the Omni. I spent a night in Brandon, Manitoba during the second week of February. LJ's, clothes, parka and big ass sleeping bag on reclined front seat. I was fine, but DAMN it was freakin' colder than a witch's tit. Really liked the reverse hood scoop. At a quick glance it looked like a 5.0 with the rear spoiler. .... I'm dreamin'...
  23. Get a flash light and look in the oil filler hole at the #1 valve lobes. At TDC the intake lobe should be at about 10 o'clock and the exhaust at about 2 o'clock. Now look for the timing notch on the pulley to be somewhere near the saw tooth timing mark plate, bolted to the chain cover. A 24mm socket and bar makes it easier to move the crank back and forth. Once I found the V notch I got a file and made it bigger so it was easier to find. I also found it hard to see down in there so once it was on TDC, I marked the front pulley (so it wouldn't get mistaken for the real timing mark) at the very bottom, where it was easy to see from underneath. Now I get it roughly close and climb under and adjust the front mark straight down then look for the rear one at the saw tooth timing plate. This puts it within 5 degrees of TDC on the first try. Piece of cake.
  24. http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=2129
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