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datzenmike

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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. You could also squirt Windex on the exhaust manifolds and compare how hot they are or 'shoot' with a borrowed IR gun.
  2. Don't the BOP engines have a dip in the bell housing at the top? Chev Pontiac are... I thought it was a truck engine.
  3. datzenmike

    My 1971 521

    Idle speed is to low to spin the alternator fast enough to make a decent charge. This is normal. The idle speed may not be. New oil thicker? It takes a long time to warm up engine oil, like half an hour while driving. Change in the weather? Check for loose or split vacuum line by pinching with pliers to see if RPMs go back up. Turn the idle speed up. See if later it needs turning down. Maybe set the idle at 850 and it will be less affected.
  4. Published in 2006???? This would be for engines running at or above stoichiometric (leaner) running EFI engines not 40 year old Datsuns with carburetors. I've noticed zero difference with the 10% ethanol, maybe less power but it's only theoretical and not really enough to notice in the seat of your pants. There is zero indication of being lean or over heating. My gap is about 0.040 for the EI ignition and it runs without miss. Plugs are light tan.
  5. Well down shifting and or using the engine to slow the vehicle causes the nose to 'dive' and the rear to lift. As you don't mention this happening when braking it probably is in the drive train. First inspect the entire exhaust system and pull on it to see if it's possible that a pipe or the muffler is rubbing the driveshaft or... anything. Sometimes it's something simple, and maybe the pipe has hit the ground and bent. Engine torque will twist the engine and move the exhaust. From the description I would say to inspect the three U joints and the center support at the rear of the front driveshaft. Try to force the driveshaft side ways and up and down at 900 to rotation at all three U joints. There should be NO looseness or slop. All you should feel is it turning. You may need to grip in front and behind the U joint to detect any slop. The bearing inside the center support is probably OK but the rubber 'doughnut' tends to rot away. If this is the case the driveshaft will be unsupported and can 'flop around'. Check the rubber transmission mount is secure bolts tight. Shifter not rubbing the hole in the tunnel. Damn, Matt you're fast. Wouldn't hurt to check the differential and transmission fluid levels. If you have not changed the oils in the last 3-5 years, nows the time.
  6. 521 owners will be clamoring for pictures. Better get some up quick. Welcome to Ratsun.
  7. We try to have all distributors timed the same so it's simpler to discuss but ultimately what ever works, the engine doesn't care.
  8. Yeah, forget Photobucket, it's blurred.
  9. Ahh I can see the picture now. All above will work. The bottom one can be reversed for more seat clearance. The top skinny one can be bent in a vice for even more room.
  10. I didn't like her much though everyone my age was ga ga over her. I am very ok with this 10
  11. Driving along at speed, flooring it to down shift to second and letting it up shift to third uses a lot less gas than accelerating the car from a stop through first and almost all the way through second. Accelerating from a stop, uses a lot of gas very quickly, and by the time it's gets to the top of second the carb begins to run dry and it stumbles and can't shift. The carb runs dry because the fuel filter is partly blocked with debris. In effect you are using gas faster than it can be sucked through the filter. The bog when you floor it is common with the Weber. At about 1/2 throttle the secondary is forced to open even though the engine is not ready for it. Try 1/2 throttle and learning to step into it as it's needed. Some practice and you'll be able to feel when it's best to step down the rest of the way.
  12. What I figured too. No mention of fuel ratios. Someone assumed a larger displacement needs more gas I guess. Going larger was totally wrong I see. Don't get me wrong at 9.6 it is howling. At 3K and up, no matter the load on the engine the velocity stacks start to make individual popping noise that becomes a very loud groan louder than the exhaust. Ever hear a Quadrajet moan? ... well not exactly like that but you know a lot of air is moving in pulses. It's addicting! Over rich runs fine but wastes gas. After a light cruise the plugs are clean but they have had time to self clean. I expect that I have gotten too small and the reading are in the 13s. Then I can increase slightly and 'sneak up on it'. Would like to see high 12 at WOT above 4K. This will likely throw the above idle and mid range off and I'll have to raise the needles again, but that's easy.
  13. Pretty sure not. The tank in inside the car. Trucks do.
  14. Pistons are in properly if the notch is towards the front. I don't know about the valve relief cuts but at TDC on the exhaust stroke the exhaust valve is nearly closed and the intake just beginning to open so there's lots of clearance between the valves and the piston. This is not the Mileage head so your compression should be reasonable. The Mileage head is a W-04 casting and has small quench areas on them. If you were to use the W04 head your compression would be 9 to 1 and likely ping like hell. The Mileage engine uses a knock sensor in the block and an ignition retard feature.
  15. The '78 remote igniter style used only that year will also work but likely if you find one the remote box is missing so that HEI module would work great on it. Works the same but looks slightly different on top...
  16. Need a 1.2mm or 0.04721" drill, got a #53 drill which is 0.465" so good enough. Only thing closer would be a 3/64 which is 0.0469" but there wasn't one. Prepared 4 new jets to just under 120 size. To recap the R-1 came with 146 (1.46mm) jets. Popular wisdom says to go at least 180 so I drilled them out but air fuel at WOT drops to mid 9s and maybe the gauge doesn't read any lower. I drilled some jets to 140 and now in the 11s. Bought a bag of tuning jets and drilled out to 1.81mm or just under 120. Weather willing I'll slip these in tomorrow and see if I can get WOT up into the high 12s.
  17. Yup. I believe that is the tank vent line to the charcoal canister up by the rad that stores the excess gas fumes. The object in the picture is a valve to prevent fuel expulsion in a turn over.
  18. This is why we have a classified section to keep the forum clear for information and discussions. ..... https://ratsun.net/classifieds/category/9-datsun-parts/
  19. Aren't there two? clips C shaped and curved like leaf springs. Don't they face each other like ( ) and the ends interlock. I always had trouble driving the clips together under tension. Once in the adjuster barely moved in it's slot.
  20. There are 40 possible distributor positions by the 40 teeth on the spindle. Each is 90. Lets say 10 teeth near each plug wire 5 on either side. More than 5 and you are withing the 10 on the next plug wire. It's very possible that it might fall between two plug wires or just barely close enough and you run out of adjustment swing. I'm almost positive the distributor does not adjust through a 900 range. Probably 1/3 that maybe less. Best to expect it to be out of adjustment range and know how to move it closer. This is the thing, there were several different slotted plates you could try the new one or put yours on it and the rotor position could be anywhere. Here are several pedestals. You can see how what fits the top one will be forced advanced if used with the bottom. I put an EI on my L18 and couldn't get it right. Used this timing adjustment ring from a Z24 and modified it by filing the bottom slot wider. Compare to the top slot.. Sometimes the plate can be used upside down to get withing adjustment range. What ever it takes....
  21. Doesn't look bad at all. I see trimming as proof that homework was not done to select the proper offset or back spacing of the rims. My motto is 'make the rims fit the car, not the car fit the rims'. Same with 'rolling the fenders'. That fold that gets flattened actually added structural stiffness to the fender.
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