Jump to content


User Administrator
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. I always check glove boxes. Found a new in the box U joint in a scrapped 620 that fit perfectly in my pocket! Years ago I was in the scrap metal yard and saw (after passing it 3-4 times in the last month) what looked like an L valve cover so I walked over. The fenders, struts, doors hood were removed and an excavator has squashed it down to save space so it was easy to overlook. I guess I happened to see it from the wrong angle before. Turns out to be a Z car. Asked the yard owner how much for anything I wanted off of it and leave the rest. He says $30...deal! Steering wheel and 5 speed (they were used on my 620 for about 10 years and are now on my 710) clutch/PP and flywheel, gear reduction starter, 50 amp alternator, driveshaft (for the U joints), wiper motor, PS box, EFI fuel pump, lots of hoses, dash switches, and handfuls of assorted nuts and bolts.
  2. All reverse gears are chewed to some degree. Dress the leading edges and leave it. You don't need reverse in a race anyway. How many miles does a car with 100k have on a reverse gear? 30-50 miles??? that's less than 1/2000 of the rest of he transmission.
  3. datzenmike

    Power steering

    This is the PS box I used with the forward facing pitman. The pitman arm spline on the '79 280zx is the same as the 620. The 720/D21 was different. All I did was separate the 620 pitman and let drop then remove the 620 box/column. The 280zx pitman faces forward because steering is behind the front wheels. The 620 pitman fits onto the 280zx PS box facing to the rear 180. I think only the '79 280zx has this PS box. Later zx used R&P. The 720 PS box spline was different so I used the 720 pitman and as I was switching to a 'Yoda SAS the rest was custom fitting anyway. The spline at the column end I used for some reason didn't match the 720 rag joint ... it's been 20 years or more. I couldn't fine a match so I made one.
  4. datzenmike

    Power steering

    This might work! I didn't try to fit the 620 turn signal ring on or the ignition. I wanted the 720 dash with tach and clock as well as the headlamp/turn signal stalk on the left and the 3 speed wiper with variable adjust pulse delay on the right. It was insane changing to 720 dash and heater. The 620 heater was out and the 720 heater blower over on the far right under the old glove box. Had to seal old air inlet and cut new one. The 620 wiper was behind the glove box so that had to go outside in the fresh air plenum. Once committed I had to keep going. Here's the PS pump... Home made mount using washers for spacers. Have a welder now. That fitting pointing down to the left is actually a metric bolt that I drilled lengthwise and cross drilled for a banjo connections using copper washers. The inner end I drilled a slight V for the spring loaded regulator pin? The bolt replaced the original fitting that was about 1/4" too long and didn't clear the PS box. Once installed I drove it at least 2 years and never once had a problem with it.
  5. I had a '71.... manual choke.
  6. Loosen the right or slack side guide bolts above the tensioner, have someone push the tensioner in as far as it will go (left) while you push the guide as far to the right or opposite direction and tighten the bolts, then release the tensioner. I hate TRV. Gaskets go on dry and there are a couple of dowels to hold it in place. You can see one in your picture. Put a dab of RTV in the two corners where the timing cover/block/head meet and the two where the timing cover/block and oil pan meet. If you did a good job cleaning... this is all you need. Chevy owners, on the other hand, just love to put RTV on with a butter knife and feel they haven't done a good job unless the entire tube is used up. I pulled this blue RTV booger out of a KA head. People..... what ever squashed out when you tighten the bolts up will also squash in. That's what gaskets are for for. Take note chevy owners!
  7. Pulled the tail off the 280zx 5 speed and.... the counter bearing on the adapter plate is the problem. The counter gear cluster actually wobbles. Probably why the transmission was removed and traded, oh well. It's not at all destroyed and totally fixable. I have the CA18ET 5 speed and have the original tail for it and a 62mm cover plate for the L front case when it gets machined. Also found a long dogleg with front case missing. Also found a mid ratio Z series. Front and rear cases off By putting the front main and counter driven gears on the CA18ET wide ratio, it can become a mid ratio but with a 280zx 25% over drive 5th! What a concept!
  8. datzenmike

    Power steering

    😂 Oh if only!!!!!! The 720 column and 280zx PS box I joined at the rag joint. Naturally the two pair of bolts were on a different radius so either/neither 280zx or 720 worked. I used a piece of 3/8" conveyor belt and cut out my own. The 720 column was collapsible and had at least one U joint. I doubt if the 620 ignition/horn/turn signals would mount to it, don't know. At around the same time I swapped in a 720 wire harness and dash so the headlights switch on the column worked.
  9. '79-'83 280zx struts. Very large caliper and large diameter vented caliper. You may need 14" rims for clearance and a larger caliper will require more brake fluid from the master so the pedal will feel mushy. A larger master cylinder will require more pedal effort so if you have a brake booster on your 510 the '79-'81 15/16" 280zx master works well. All models of the 280zx struts (turbo or NA) have the same struts. The '81-'84 Maxim is another source of larger caliper and vented rotor. In a nut shell you can cut the zx lower perch off and swap the 510 perch on and support it in place with a split collar, (about $25 a pair) which can be raised or lowered to set the ride height. Use the 510 spring and 'top hat' as the zx spring to too large a diameter. The zx strut is slightly shorter length (2cm+ or just over 3/4") so you can be his much lower. The stock spring rate is about 90 pounds per inch (lb./in.) and with some easy calculations can be trimmed in length to increase the spring rate. Always a good idea and specially good if on a lowered car. Lowering, lowers the center of gravity of a vehicle and improves handling and stopping. Lowering a couple of inches will introduce some bump steer. I just made my own spacers out of scrap aluminum rather than buying them. If the oil bath dampers have been replaced with inserts you'll have to replace them. If they still have the oil in them, this can be replaced with thicker motorcycle hydraulic fork oil to firm up the action. I used Bell Ray fork oil about $15 for a liter, enough for three struts.
  10. Sprocket dots to bright links and good to go. The L series are correct and from my FSMs. The Z series were from How To Keep Your Datsun On The Road? I do have several Z24 chains around and will check into this.
  11. Found the '85 CA18ET 5 speed. Power washed the 280zx L case and the CA tail and got them clean. The L case has to be machined out to 2.4428" so went to the machine shop but it was closed. Will drive to work Monday, and check on the way home. I traded the CA 'bell' for a KA-E head (sucker) but the front cover went with it (idiot) so I pulled my 720 shorty out and I believe it's for a 62mm bearing. Failing that I did have an '85 diesel 5 speed just have to burrow through all my junk to find it. After the machine shop I took the 710 out on the highway and only at high speed is there noise from somewhere under the car. It's right when you let of and coast and really loud in neutral. Seems to go away down at 50/60. Totally quiet in town. Later I will check the drive shaft, the trans and diff oil levels. If not this then I'll continue with the trans from the CA18ET. I had the zx trans out last summer and checked all the bearings so I can see how this would be making noise. Highway cruise at 70 reads 15 on the air fuel so good enough. Will slowly drop into the 11s when floored and above 4k keeps dropping to 9.8. Pulls very well and on entry to the freeway in third a long hard pull the speedo keeps climbing where with the carb, acceleration would noticeably drop off above 3,500 and take forever to get to 5k. Also there is a slight hesitation off idle transitioning to primary with the Hitachi... that's gone. These are much smoother and no slight bog. Still don't have the vacuum advance worked out but it runs so good I can't see it being any better....
  12. L16/18.......... 42 links L20B............. 44 links Z20/22......... 38 links Z24............... 40 links
  13. The 620 and earlier trucks had a one piece box and column so I had to install a u-joint 720 column to make it work. Plus I was adding a 4" body lift and the column was bending too much. I started with a '79 280zx PS box which was inside the frame and later switched to a 720 or D21, I don't remember, but they look very much the same. The pump was from a D21 on a home made mount below the distributor (L series engine) with the reservoir on the fender. It was an extremely tight fit between the pump and the 'inside the frame' box. Years later I switched to the outside the frame box which would have been a better idea to start with maybe but the pitman arm would have been several inches too far to the left. When I switched to the D21 box I also was doing a Toyota SAS swap.
  14. No, there must be dozens of different applications. It's fascinating the evolution of the emblems.
  15. Here the 620 and earlier boxes mounted on the inside of the frame (but on the left side of engine) 720 and later D21 were on the outside and gave more room beside the engine..
  16. No. I thought all king pin trucks came with them but it was strictly an option on all 620s. I had a ball joint truck and an earlier sway bar bolted right in. Holes were right there in the frame and threaded. Wheelbase is front to back. Wheel tread is center of tire to center of tire width. '73 front............ 49.2" to Aug '74......... 49.6" to July '75........ 49.6" to Jan '76......... 51.4" to July '77........ 49.6" to Dec '77........ 51.5" Jan '78 on....... 51.4" (disc brake) Some of this can be attributed to rim offset. A better measurement of front end width would be WMS to WMS, or wheel mounting surface. Although the 620 and 2wd 720 tension rods are similar looking they are a different part number so not exactly the same. They may fit. 4x4 rods are vastly different. I managed to fit a 720 and a D21 PS box on the 620 frame. Only 2 bolt holes are close and some filing was needed. I didn't have a welder or things would have been different.
  17. Model years began in June of the previous year so an '83 could be built any time between July and December '82. There's confusion when someone has one built during these months and says they have an '82 when really it's an '83 'Model Year' truck. There were big changes in the 720 around November '82... an '83 model year truck. The engine was changed to the Z24 from the Z22 (there's confusion here about the 4x4 Z22 changing to Z24 in December), dash was re designed with round gauge cluster, front disc brakes made larger with vented rotors, 4x4 rear diff to larger C-200, auto locking hubs and much more... The DATSUNbyNISSAN fender emblem was retired in October '82 and just NISSAN used from then on. The 'hard' switch from Datsun to Nissan was about this time and covered about 5 years beginning with the 'soft' DATSUNbyNISSAN on '79 620 trucks and cars, and slowly dropping the Datsun marque to Nissan only. The '84 Maxima still had Datsun and Nissan emblems and the latest I could find was the '86 300zx which still had a small Datsun on the rear emblem.
  18. You can't. A moderator can. Were it different, valuable contributions to the forum might be lost.
  19. Can you take a picture looking down on them? Showing the tops of the pads?
  20. So you're instead spending that or more on adjustable coil overs that once set to the ride height you want, never get adjusted again? That's a lot of money riding around doing nothing. Get the 280zx struts and cut the lower spring perches off and put your B-210 ones on supported in place with split collars. $25 and also adjustable, with some effort, but not tying up hundreds of dollars. You can trim the B-210 spring to make them stiffer and add new (shock) inserts. What I did was remove the stock coil spring and carefully cut the bottom spring perch off so it's free to move up or down the strut tube and use 2" split collars to support them. The collars are about $20-$25 for two pair and each can support 5,000 pounds. Lowering the ride height on the same springs is likely to result in bottoming the car out so a stiffer spring rate is advised. Springs get 'stiffer' the shorter they are cut. Next I worked out the spring rate using a handy formula using multiply and divide (anyone can do this in seconds with a calculator and some careful measurements of their spring) and selected how much to cut off to get a 50% stiffer spring. Best to cut lesser amounts and try it rather than cut too much... you can't put it back on if you cut too much. Last....my struts still had the original oil bath dampers so I drained the old thin watery hydraulic fluid out and replaced with thicker motorcycle fork oil. I selected 20w and it's thicker and harder to push through the valves giving a firmer ride. If you don't have them they were likely replaced with inserts which are expensive. Twenty weight Bel Ray fork oil was under $20 a liter.... enough to do 3 struts. The way I see it, once you get your ride height dialed in, what good are adjustable coil overs??? They are just hundreds of dollars going along for the ride. So my 710 has a firmer ride, spring and damper (shock) and if I wanted I can adjust the ride height but haven't in 5 years. Total cost under $50. Carefully slit the spring perch off by cutting just above the weld... Angle grinder or even a hacksaw will do. Smooth away the weld so the perch and split collar is free to slid past it to adjust... To get 150 lb/in spring rate I cut about 1 1/4 coil off. Yours will be different, all springs are different. Pipe wrench to remove gland nut. Fish out this O ring and everything lifts out. Pour out the old. Fill with new oil and assemble. Loosely fit the gland nut and pull the strut rod out to full length and compress. With help hold strut upside down and do the same to get all the bubbles out. Check the oil level and top up, leaving 1/4" for heat expansion. You can do this in a morning or a day if you take your time. $50 and you can say... I did this using Maxima struts and the brakes are great. Big caliper and vented rotor.... but like coil overs........ no one can see them.
  21. datzenmike

    Power steering

    Raise the front wheels off the ground and you should be able to spin the steering wheel from lock to lock with a finger. If not likely the king pins. Try greasing them and all the steering ball joints. After I switched to 10.5 x 31 tires the steering was terrible. I used a '79 280zx power steering box and a D21 steering pump on a home made mount under the distributor. Later I went to 12.5 x 33 tires. No problem.
  22. Plymouth had one with the 4 headlamps on a 45 degree angle. Didn't care for them.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.