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datzenmike

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Posts posted by datzenmike


  1. Engine must be HOT. Take for drive or idle at least 20 min. Gauge should read 1/2 or just above. Lash is 0.012" for all.

     

    Set TDC and do both on #1, intake on #2, exhaust on #3...... turn engine ONE full turn to TDC and adjust exhaust on #2 intake on #3 and both on #4. This is the fastest way to set the lash without the engine cooling down. If you can't do it in 10 min button up and warm it up before doing the last half.

     

    Assume the picture above is before starting? When you set the lash the rocker shafts and arms should have oil on them. 


  2. You need about 2 volts more than the battery from the alternator. Consider it a 2 volt 'push' putting current into it.

     

    You used to be able to buy the brushes for the old style. I've pulled them out of bad alternators to keep a good one going. No one does that today, they buy a $45 POS from Oryliegh's.

     

    • Like 1

  3.  It should, the mounting bolts are vertical. The zx master will move more volume than the smaller 610 master which has to travel farther to do so and may feel mushy. I have a 15/16" on my 710 brake booster with Maxima calipers and love the feel. The S13/14 calipers use a 15/16" master (horizontal mounting bolts) with anti lock brakes and 7/8" without. The calipers are larger than the stock 610 calipers so this should work well.


  4. Consumables like brake shoes and pads and ball joints for suspension and steering can be ordered at NAPA, Bumper to Bumper any auto parts store. I bough some Centric rear shoes for my 710 from Amazon for $9 on sale. Body parts are much harder. Bumpers? no market so not likely to find any in a store. Try wrecking yards, e=bay or post an ad in out classifieds...    ...https://ratsun.net/classifieds/category/9-datsun-parts/

     

    For struts you can swap 280zx struts onto the A10. You may need 14" rims to clear the much larger vented rotor and massive caliper. It's a hell of a brake upgrade.

     

    JSWD92k.jpg

    • Like 1

  5. No.

     

    The  large front two bearings do support the fronts of the main and counter shafts, and there are smaller bearings at the back that do the same. In the middle are the adapter plate bearings and they don't look good at all.

    • Like 1

  6. '73 through '77 all bolt to the bed. The '73-'74 probably didn't have a return line that the L20B needs. The '75 through '77 are the closest match iteration. '78 and '79s bolt to the frame but a smart person could probably make it work on the bed. 


  7. I was stopped at a DUI checkpoint one night and asked what I was going. I replied that I was minding my own business. Where are you headed? I pointed to the windshield. For some reason the courts here allow the police to do this as long as they stop EVERYBODY. It's an illegal stop and a fishing expedition under the guise of stopping impaired drivers.  I told them why not set up near the bar down the road to increase their chances. It's bullshit. 

     

    BTW I don't drink and I don't like impaired drivers either, they're only slightly above child molesters, but I don't like being stopped worse.

    • Like 2

  8. Well if fuel related we should eliminate the fuel pump relay. It's job is to only allow the fuel pump to work under certain conditions. In a accident the pump would keep pumping which could be a bad thing if a rollover or fire. They can be problematic so give this article a good read... https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/The-Datsun-and-Nissan-Pickup-Fuel-Pump-Relay-What-the-Haynes-Automotive-Repair-Manual-Wont-Tell-You  ... There is a jumper wire you can make to eliminate the relay and keep the pump working. If the problem goes away it can be assumed the relay is working intermittently.

    • Like 1

  9. OK..... 1.18mm installed and wow that's not good. idle mix is close enough but it rises when ever the gas is pushed. I'll try moving the needles higher to make it richer but 125 or 130 might be better.

     

     

    While it would idle reasonably well in the high 17s it sure doesn't like it when there's a load.


  10. Ray, was there a 283 in the Apache? First engine I ever worked on was a 283 although I was more eager that capable and was cleaning parts for my neighbor who was rebuilding his. This was in the almost mid '60s and it was definitely NOT new. I seem to remember it having small wrap around side/rear windows. I think single headlamps.... it was over 50 years ago.


  11. It might come with a bearing, I don't know, but there's only been one confirmed case of the bearing being bad. It has almost no load on it and allows the driveshaft to spin inside the 'doughnut'. It's a bother to change it. I would save the bearing and just change the 'doughnut'. Hell I had a bad doughnut and wrapped a strip of rubber conveyor belt around the driveshaft and clamped it in. It worked so well I forgot about it for 3 years till I took the drive shaft out.

    • Like 1

  12. 41 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

    For low budget rebuilds, I like Hastings sprayed chrome rings. Because of their construction, they break in quick. The Sealed Power rings you showed appear to also have a sprayed chrome top ring.

     

    Technology has changed over just the past couple years and it may be worth reading up on. Here are two good articles -

    https://www.hastingspistonrings.com/tech-tips-faqs/hastings-piston-ring-set-composition-recommendations

     

    http://blog.jepistons.com/piston-ring-materials-explained

     

     

     

     

    This would of course assume a perfect cylindrical, machined and honed cylinder wall. I've done a couple of quick hone and ring jobs on an L16 and L20B in the 70s using chrome rings because they were the 'best.' It reduced the oil burning but it was not at all 'like new' and within a year I was back where I started. I now know I should have spent time measuring the bore wear and maybe just used plain cast iron rings for a better break in seal.

    • Like 2
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