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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. Was out yesterday for a drive and level cruise was in the 14s but just touch the gas and it drops. Any throttle drops it and the higher the revs the more it drops. Down to 9.8 when really wrung out. Hot idle was 19-20 and running not so smooth. Now this may be from turning the idle jets in from 3 to 2 1/2 turns. So this morning I removed the slides and needles and moved the E clips up one notch so the needles are sitting deeper and allowing less fuel at any throttle position. What I have now is low/mid 14s at cruise and slight hill climb. I can still get it down to 9.8 but it takes longer to get there and at higher revs. On the way home it's several miles all down hill to my driveway, foot off the gas. So I pulled the plugs and they are cream color so definitely lean at 16/17. Will move the idle screws back to 3 turns out as this gave a warmed up 14.8/15.1 before. Then check if this has changed anything when driving. Would like to see it stop at low 12s when floored. If it hasn't changed other than the idle mixture I may try moving up one more notch on the jets just to see what happens. For starting cold I have a small plastic water bottle of fuel that I drilled a 1.8mm hole in the cap. Hold over each carb opening and squeeze lightly, fires right up.
  2. No I don't. A good kit starts at $25-$30 and probably would have it. The older carbs were brass screen.
  3. Maybe sent in as a core and mixed in with the right side clutches. Maybe that bleeder will work like that?
  4. In addition someone, possibly far in the future, can run a search for a similar problem, read this post and learn from this what worked or didn't.
  5. I thought all 810 came with 5 speeds but no. Up to June '78 were 4 speeds and 5 speeds were standard from July '78 and up but only on the newly offered hardtop.
  6. White wall is too thick. Try matching gray rim with chrome cap and trim ring....
  7. datzenmike

    No Blinkers

    The old '70-'72 521 the regulator was a plug in on the back. The 620 and 720 have it built into the gauges. Be sure the fuse is good first. Find another the same amperage and swap them if this fixes it then the fuse was bad. Never trust ANY fuse on looks.
  8. Look alright to me. Clipping to the float allows the weight of the float to pull the needle down off the seat when the fuel level drops and also prevents the needle dropping out to the side. The screen? I just pull them off old carbs. Wasn't there a new one with the rebuild kit??
  9. Generally truck slaves have the fitting in the end and cars to the side. This is strictly for truck only, torsion bar clearance and either will work. Maybe yours was changed out for one from a car. The bleeder should be above the inlet to allow air bubbles out. Just a guess but I would say it's from a 720 diesel which has the clutch arm and slave on the left, or driver's side and would have the bleeder opposite to the slaves mounted on the right. A new one, for a gas engine, should be the proper way round.
  10. datzenmike

    No Blinkers

    If both gauges are not working then either the fuse or the 'voltage regulator' inside the gauges. It's unlikely both failed and likely something common like the power or the regulator. There is a small 'voltage regulator' in the dash that produces about 8v for the temp and the gas gauges. The 8 volts is constant rather than the 12.6 when not running and 14.3 when charging. This allows the gauges to read the same at all times. I assume the early 720 is similar to the '83 and up older dashes. Look inside the gauge cluster for a very small white wire wound around a metal strip with a contact on the end.... The current warms the bi metallic strip and it bends opening the contacts, they cool and re connect. Fold a thin strip of fine emery paper and draw it through the contacts to clean them. This usually fixes the problem.
  11. Zactly. Just needed to be outside the box.
  12. Connected the brake light switch to the relay that controls the vacuum pump and it works quite well. Thank you Crashtd. On the highway at 50 and level.... high 13s and low 14s, but as soon as you give any throttle it drops., moderate throttle 11s and full throttle 9.6 Once she cools down I'm going to try lowering the needles.... perhaps the bike owner ran them rich. After a long run I turned the idle down below 800 and it's showing 19/20 and doesn't sound smooth. I did turn the screws 1/2 turn lean from 3 turns out. Might look at this.
  13. I think buying and selling is a contract that should be hammered out by those individuals involved. I can't make the seller sell to you even if he said OBO. Nor can I make you pay them what you offered if you should change your mind later. On the face of it OBO would imply the best offer wins. Lets say a seller has an L20B carburetor worth $100 and there are lots of $100 L20B carbs for sale, but doesn't want to wait and hope it sells. He can offer it for $90 to speed it up but perhaps has an amount in mind that is the absolute lowest rock bottom amount he will go below what it may be worth. Lets say $50, anything less is more than he put into it. He can't advertise this number, $50, or he may as well just post it. Instead he posts $90 OBO and hope an offer, any offer, is higher than their $50. Your 'winning' bid of $45 isn't enough. It's just the way it is. In general terms the seller has to have the most advantage here. If selling becomes too much of a bother then stuff just sits and is wasted or the worst thing is that it's thrown away. Once a vintage part is gone, it's gone forever and that's a shame. These parts need to be available to those who want them to restore or keep their old Datsuns on the road. We encourage people with old parts to use our classifieds If the seller posts again make the same offer and he may realize this is all he will ever get and raise his hidden minimum amount, or you can offer more and hope this is at or above his minimum.
  14. I thought about this all day at work and your idea is genius. There is a one way valve on the line to the booster, so vacuum is held even if you're driving and the engine quits. You have at least one good press on the brakes before it's all used up. Just don't pump the brakes. So your idea of the brake light switch will work. It does build very fast, but not fast enough for using it alone. But if the booster still has vacuum in it anyway it should easily catch up. The only problem is sitting for long times with the brakes on. Maybe I can make something that turns the pump on for only 5 seconds at a time.
  15. The gauge is calibrated by turning it on in open air. I guess it reads the oxygen content which iss (more or less) universal. Then it is installed in the pipe. I'm planning a trip so I want good cruise mileage. Performance is secondary, unless I was at home. This is an R-1 carbs set up so no accelerator pump. They are constant velocity carbs. There is an enrich lever that (when running) smooths out and raises the idle when cold and the gauge does run richer with it on so I assume it's working. I pull this out (on) but doesn't start. Gas squirted from a Windex bottle in each carb and boom! away she goes. Restart is fine even when just warm.
  16. Amateurs..... there. Now no-one knows what you're talking about.
  17. datzenmike

    No Blinkers

    Turn the ignition on so the turn signals can work and set to left or right. Now move the 4 way flasher slowly towards the ON position of the 4 way until the turn signal starts flashing and stop. This is a problem with the emergency 4 way flasher switch. When turning it to OFF the switch goes too far and disconnects the turn signals.. Try this and see if it helps. Fuel gauge and the temperature gauge are powered form the same voltage regulator. So.. if the temperature gauge is also not working this is most likely the problem. However if only the fuel gauge is not working try this... Go to the tank and unplug it. There is a Black wire and a Yellow/White stripe wire. It may be corroded away or broken or the wires after the plug are bad or corroded off the tank. Ground the Yellow/White wire going back to the gauge and the gauge should read FULL. If it reads FULL then the sender in the tank or the Black ground wire is bad. Make a new ground wire and try again. If it still does not read, the Yellow/White wire back to the gauge or the gauge is bad. Under the passenger seat is a 10 pin plug that connects the inside of the cab harness to the harness under the truck. Unplug and ground the Yellow/White wire going back to the gauge. If it reads FULL then the wire back to the tank is broken. If not then the problem is towards the dash or the gauge still. The harness under the truck is exposed to flying rocks and debris and with the reverse lights out this could be the problem. Another is a previous owner splicing into the under truck harness for a trailer and poorly done connections and water rot the connections..
  18. datzenmike


    What I did was remove the stock coil spring and carefully cut the bottom spring perch off so it's free to move up or down the strut tube and use 2" split collars to support them. The collars are about $20-$25 for two pair and each can support 5,000 pounds. Lowering the ride height on the same springs is likely to result in bottoming the car out so a stiffer spring rate is advised. Springs get 'stiffer' the shorter they are cut. Next I worked out the spring rate using a handy formula using multiply and divide (anyone can do this in seconds with a calculator and some careful measurements of their spring) and selected how much to cut off to get a 50% stiffer spring. Best to cut lesser amounts and try it rather than cut too much... you can't put it back on if you cut too much. Last....my struts still had the original oil bath dampers so I drained the old thin watery hydraulic fluid out and replaced with thicker motorcycle fork oil. I selected 20w and it's thicker and harder to push through the valves giving a firmer ride. If you don't have them they were likely replaced with inserts which are expensive. Twenty weight Bel Ray fork oil was under $20 a liter.... enough to do 3 struts. The way I see it, once you get your ride height dialed in, what good are adjustable coil overs??? They are just hundreds of dollars going along for the ride. So my 710 has a firmer ride, spring and damper (shock) and if I wanted I can adjust the ride height but haven't in 5 years. Total cost under $50. Carefully slit the spring perch off by cutting just above the weld... Angle grinder or even a hacksaw will do. Smooth away the weld so the perch and split collar is free to slid past it to adjust... To get 150 lb/in spring rate I cut about 1 1/4 coil off. Yours will be different, all springs are different. Pipe wrench to remove gland nut. Fish out this O ring and everything lifts out. Pour out the old. Fill with new oil and assemble. Loosely fit the gland nut and pull the strut rod out to full length and compress. With help hold strut upside down and do the same to get all the bubbles out. Check the oil level and top up, leaving 1/4" for heat expansion. You can do this in a morning or a day if you take your time. $50 and you can say...
  19. I don't know. Sounds awesome but no assist at start and you have to think worst case scenario.
  20. I had a set and there was a bar across the bottom that if you sat back and hit a bump your tail bone would come down on. You can always sell to someone that wants stock seats.
  21. Set the valve lash to 0.012" or check it. Do this on a hot engine, where it's actually operating. I NEVER recommend an oil additive, ever. But I do recommend a diesel oil with it's properly higher level of ZDDP in it. I run 15w40 Shell Rotella T4 although there is also 10w30. Always change the filter with the oil and never ever use fram filters. Check the timing is 5 degrees +/- 2 degrees BTDC. I did have an Xterra VG fan but ended up with a pair of Subaru fans. Would have preferred Nissan stuff too.
  22. No.... but it is used on them. The KA also has a weird adapter that fits it for the oil pressure sender and to clock the filter for clearance.
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