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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. We are ALWAYS now. It's always now. We are inextricably in the now. If 'early' the now simply hasn't got there yet. If 'late' then the now has already passed it by. I only know my now. Your now may have been last week to me or next month. Do we have a shared now in this universe or do we have our own????
  2. The holes are superfluous to running side drafts and won't interfere. Heads with coolant holes don't leak with a good gasket. I drilled mine out and used them and the U67 head works just like a 510 head with 2bby Hitachi. I also lately, switched to R-1 carbs and don't use the coolant holes and it still works fine. As to the 160 thermostat it should run best where it was designed to run 180F. If it overheats or runs too hot with a 180F then something else is wrong. Get a later coolant recovery rad cap and plumb the over flow pipe into a container. Coolant expelled from the rad is saved and when the engine cools it siphons back in keeping the rad topped up at all times. With this system in place I loose only a cup of coolant a year.
  3. Depends. The Z series were bulged on the right and the 1980 with the L20B were bulged on the opposite side...
  4. All I had were clutch fans. Most were from Z series trucks with the lager pump cavity and larger impellers... Most L series... Later larger displacement Z series and maybe L series with air con?...
  5. No matter what has happened or might happen, as I write this, now, has moved letter by letter to the period at the end and then moves on. It's always NOW
  6. All I see in your history is this one post. The F4W63 and the F4W63L 4 speed has a removable bottom pan to gain access it the insides. It was used on L16/18 and L20B engines and also on the J13 engine in the '66-'69 520/L521 truck and the '80-'81 A10 with Z20 engine. To fit the J and the Z series engines a different bolt pattern is cast into the case than an L series. The F4W63 comes in two lengths 26" and a 31.5" used only on the L series engines in the 610 and trucks and station wagons use a wide ratio gear set while cars use a mid ratio set..
  7. This looks much neater than this...
  8. You have two '84 model years. Not '83. The choice is obvious.
  9. This is why I haven't posted here. I don't need a set... at least not yet.
  10. Exactly!!! I've run without a by pass and the engine temp gauge was just barely reading but the rad hoses were rock hard with pressure!!! Like I said only (up till now) the U67 didn't have the coolant cooled/warmed intake but joined to the intake/exhaust manifolds and used exhaust heat to warm the intake. A poor idea as the heat riser valves eventually always are rusted in either stuck ON or full OFF mode and the intake cooked or froze. I put an earlier L16 exhaust and a later '79 coolant cooled intake and a proper by pass on my 710. If coolant warmed, the air entering the combustion chamber is at a more constant temperature and doesn't vary with the day to day (or even daytime to nighttime) outside temperatures. Also. The coolant in the intake also removes heat radiated onto the intake from the very hot exhaust just an inch away. Very helpful if in very hot temperatures. Now you might say that it only get very hot once or twice a summer but if it boils the gas in the carb (vapor lock and hard restart) and you can't get it to run just once, that's one too many times.
  11. When you got the RWD SR20DE from an S13 (obviously an import) I assume it came with a transmission? I would guess this would be a 71C like Jeff said. Here all 71Cs were the same 24 spline that is approximately 24.6mm diameter or 0.97". Count yours. And post a picture of the transmission, I'd like to see this.. KA engines in cars use a 225mm PP but truck KAs use a 240mm.
  12. The line down across the front of the engine is metal but you could just use hose for this. The by pass has no other purpose but during warm up. As it's there anyway, coolant can easily be run through the intake and connected at a Y near the thermostat housing.
  13. Two things... They whistle. My Dart had them and when a passenger opens one I would: No no no no!!! shit. Now they'll whistle for a week till the rubber seals it up. Thieves smash them in and it's not so obvious driving a stolen car in bad weather. They are a god's send in the summer though.
  14. I find the spring softer to return in the 1/2 than if in the 5th/R. I guess the 1/2 gets more use. The spring under the cap us quite strong but like I said I shimmed mine. If there is any wear on the button under the spring flipping it 180 would make the 5th/R a bit softer and the 1/2 firmer? Maybe.
  15. datzenmike

    Used to run great

    Don't bother. One of them is set a few degrees retarded to the first set. The emissions system can then select weather to run advanced or retarded depending what gear and how warmed up the engine is. Just rune one set, doesn't matter which and set the timing to 12 or whatever runs best and stay there. Opening the points wider will retard the timing. So set the points gap... then set the timing. Generally as the points wear down the gap increases and the timing retards so clean (file) and gap every 5K. Don't forget the condenser. It's wired to ground and when the points open electricity will 'see' this path to ground and flows into it, rather that arcing as the points disconnect. Without the condenser the points will last about 150 miles.
  16. I think you'll find that the shifter is meant to return to thee 3/4 position in the neutral gate. The 'plunger' cap has a raised ridge running horizontally and is spring loaded. The striking rod has a matching horizontal groove it fits into and only lines up in the 2/3 shifter position. Shifting right towards 5/R forces the plunger out of the groove and against the spring, shifting left towards 1/2 does the same thing. If you think about it, this helps the 2 to 3 shift miss going into first and 'points the way' into the next gear but resists going too far right into the 5th/R gate. True there is some slight resistance going into 5th but you know you are going there. Down shifting from 5th gives a left assist into the 3/4 gate and avoids reverse but slight resistance from going into the 1/2 gate. I think I shimmed mine with a small bolt to make the pull into the 3/4 gate slightly stronger. Push forwards out of 2nd and the shifter jumps to the right into the 3/4 gate. Pull out of 5th and it jumps left into the 3/4.
  17. You'll need the metal sash (channel) and the felt to line it for for the longer glass to fit where the wing window was. RH is 80212 B5001 LH is 80213-B5001 if you want to look up what they look like Your wind up (or regulator) should work ok with the longer glass. Along the bottom of the glass is a metal trim that is gripped by the regulator, better get that with the glass just in case.
  18. The A87 had the holes for coolant as far as I know. Can you see the intake side of the head to confirm they are not there???? I think you'll find that they are. The L16 intake is definitely coolant cooled/warmed. If for some reason the head doesn't have the holes just use the gasket to mark the holes and drill them out. I did this on the U67 head I have. As far as I know only the U67 does not have the holes. The coolant flowing intakes warm the intake air when severely cold and absorbs and carries away radiant heat from the hot exhaust just an inch away. This allows the engine to operate smoothly in a wider range of outside temperatures Jiggle valve is not as good as a proper by pass hook up. During warm up any coolant is going into the rad and cold rad water is displaced into the water pump and into the cold engine slowing the warm up. The by pass is just that. It by passes the rad and circulates partly warmed coolant right back into the engine and speeds the warm up. In addition more coolant is circulated around the exhaust ports and pushed out into the intake with a by pass. Z cars that race often drill extra by pass holes (not used on EFI engines) to force better circulation in the long front to back 6 cylinder head. This prevents the rear combustion chambers running hotter than the fronts.
  19. The door card is differently mounted through '75. There is a long external trim clip along the top and plastic buttons on the sides and along the bottom. '76 on have only the plastic buttons. KC box is the same as the standard cab short wheelbase box. Grills to '78 are the same '78 and up different but all interchange. Front glass are all the same but KC rear windows are different from the standard cab. Dashes all the same. KCs had bucket seats.
  20. Cut the aluminum plate and did a better job. The other was really a 'proof of concept and it works. This one will be more precise. I'm going to 'glue some fillets onto the bottom inside to position the filter better, maybe some on the top so you don't have to fiddle with it to line it up when tightening. Painted the air horns, velocity stacks, what ever.
  21. Normal, some wear is to be expected. Often just a black paste. I've pulled them out with ball bearings stuck to them, once a piece of bearing race and recently with a piece of oil gutter that went through the gears. Wipe it clean so you have a gauge for the next time it comes out.
  22. PL...L16 HL... L20B The JDM Coupe L18 starts with K but I think the 610/710 and 620 used PL when L18 equipped.
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