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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. It's really the rubber seal that you need. I got one recently and the 'rubber' was more like soft RTV. I took it apart to make sure there were no aluminum chips inside and to grease the seal with brake fluid.
  2. Strip it for your own parts. Then scrap. Or if possible just store it somewhere and strip as needed. Having a spare engine and transmission is good insurance.
  3. datzenmike


    That's a lot of money tied up in bling. Can't see an easy way to adjust on the track. Even with replaceable inserts you would have to take them apart to adjust?
  4. I don't see why this isn't working. What about the oil pan mating surface?... only thing left. Is it cracked or marred in any way? that the ring seal can't d it's job?
  5. You dog!!!! Oh wait.... you mean your daughter.
  6. Did you check the ground cable where it bolts to the intake manifold? Clean the two battery cables where they clamp to the battery posts?
  7. Just kiddin', it's an easy fix. If there's a black plastic box on passenger side inner fender to the rear of the alternator voltage regulator, covering some relays, it's one of those. It will have the following wires to it... White/Blue (stripe) Blue Black Yellow
  8. Covered this already... Remove the choke heater relay!!! Or unplug it. It's still on. Even though the heater is gone the coil inside the relay will take about 3 days to drain the battery.
  9. Was out yesterday for a drive and level cruise was in the 14s but just touch the gas and it drops. Any throttle drops it and the higher the revs the more it drops. Down to 9.8 when really wrung out. Hot idle was 19-20 and running not so smooth. Now this may be from turning the idle jets in from 3 to 2 1/2 turns. So this morning I removed the slides and needles and moved the E clips up one notch so the needles are sitting deeper and allowing less fuel at any throttle position. What I have now is low/mid 14s at cruise and slight hill climb. I can still get it down to 9.8 but it takes longer to get there and at higher revs. On the way home it's several miles all down hill to my driveway, foot off the gas. So I pulled the plugs and they are cream color so definitely lean at 16/17. Will move the idle screws back to 3 turns out as this gave a warmed up 14.8/15.1 before. Then check if this has changed anything when driving. Would like to see it stop at low 12s when floored. If it hasn't changed other than the idle mixture I may try moving up one more notch on the jets just to see what happens. For starting cold I have a small plastic water bottle of fuel that I drilled a 1.8mm hole in the cap. Hold over each carb opening and squeeze lightly, fires right up.
  10. No I don't. A good kit starts at $25-$30 and probably would have it. The older carbs were brass screen.
  11. Maybe sent in as a core and mixed in with the right side clutches. Maybe that bleeder will work like that?
  12. In addition someone, possibly far in the future, can run a search for a similar problem, read this post and learn from this what worked or didn't.
  13. I thought all 810 came with 5 speeds but no. Up to June '78 were 4 speeds and 5 speeds were standard from July '78 and up but only on the newly offered hardtop.
  14. White wall is too thick. Try matching gray rim with chrome cap and trim ring....
  15. datzenmike

    No Blinkers

    The old '70-'72 521 the regulator was a plug in on the back. The 620 and 720 have it built into the gauges. Be sure the fuse is good first. Find another the same amperage and swap them if this fixes it then the fuse was bad. Never trust ANY fuse on looks.
  16. Look alright to me. Clipping to the float allows the weight of the float to pull the needle down off the seat when the fuel level drops and also prevents the needle dropping out to the side. The screen? I just pull them off old carbs. Wasn't there a new one with the rebuild kit??
  17. Generally truck slaves have the fitting in the end and cars to the side. This is strictly for truck only, torsion bar clearance and either will work. Maybe yours was changed out for one from a car. The bleeder should be above the inlet to allow air bubbles out. Just a guess but I would say it's from a 720 diesel which has the clutch arm and slave on the left, or driver's side and would have the bleeder opposite to the slaves mounted on the right. A new one, for a gas engine, should be the proper way round.
  18. datzenmike

    No Blinkers

    If both gauges are not working then either the fuse or the 'voltage regulator' inside the gauges. It's unlikely both failed and likely something common like the power or the regulator. There is a small 'voltage regulator' in the dash that produces about 8v for the temp and the gas gauges. The 8 volts is constant rather than the 12.6 when not running and 14.3 when charging. This allows the gauges to read the same at all times. I assume the early 720 is similar to the '83 and up older dashes. Look inside the gauge cluster for a very small white wire wound around a metal strip with a contact on the end.... The current warms the bi metallic strip and it bends opening the contacts, they cool and re connect. Fold a thin strip of fine emery paper and draw it through the contacts to clean them. This usually fixes the problem.
  19. Zactly. Just needed to be outside the box.
  20. Connected the brake light switch to the relay that controls the vacuum pump and it works quite well. Thank you Crashtd. On the highway at 50 and level.... high 13s and low 14s, but as soon as you give any throttle it drops., moderate throttle 11s and full throttle 9.6 Once she cools down I'm going to try lowering the needles.... perhaps the bike owner ran them rich. After a long run I turned the idle down below 800 and it's showing 19/20 and doesn't sound smooth. I did turn the screws 1/2 turn lean from 3 turns out. Might look at this.
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