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Everything posted by datzenmike

  1. I didn't like her much though everyone my age was ga ga over her. I am very ok with this 10
  2. Driving along at speed, flooring it to down shift to second and letting it up shift to third uses a lot less gas than accelerating the car from a stop through first and almost all the way through second. Accelerating from a stop, uses a lot of gas very quickly, and by the time it's gets to the top of second the carb begins to run dry and it stumbles and can't shift. The carb runs dry because the fuel filter is partly blocked with debris. In effect you are using gas faster than it can be sucked through the filter. The bog when you floor it is common with the Weber. At about 1/2 throttle the secondary is forced to open even though the engine is not ready for it. Try 1/2 throttle and learning to step into it as it's needed. Some practice and you'll be able to feel when it's best to step down the rest of the way.
  3. What I figured too. No mention of fuel ratios. Someone assumed a larger displacement needs more gas I guess. Going larger was totally wrong I see. Don't get me wrong at 9.6 it is howling. At 3K and up, no matter the load on the engine the velocity stacks start to make individual popping noise that becomes a very loud groan louder than the exhaust. Ever hear a Quadrajet moan? ... well not exactly like that but you know a lot of air is moving in pulses. It's addicting! Over rich runs fine but wastes gas. After a light cruise the plugs are clean but they have had time to self clean. I expect that I have gotten too small and the reading are in the 13s. Then I can increase slightly and 'sneak up on it'. Would like to see high 12 at WOT above 4K. This will likely throw the above idle and mid range off and I'll have to raise the needles again, but that's easy.
  4. Pretty sure not. The tank in inside the car. Trucks do.
  5. Pistons are in properly if the notch is towards the front. I don't know about the valve relief cuts but at TDC on the exhaust stroke the exhaust valve is nearly closed and the intake just beginning to open so there's lots of clearance between the valves and the piston. This is not the Mileage head so your compression should be reasonable. The Mileage head is a W-04 casting and has small quench areas on them. If you were to use the W04 head you compression would be 9 to 1 and likely ping like hell. The Mileage engine uses a knock sensor in the block and an ignition retard feature. Thos
  6. The '78 remote igniter style used only that year will also work but likely if you find one the remote box is missing so that HEI module would work great on it. Works the same but looks slightly different on top...
  7. Need a 1.2mm or 0.04721" drill, got a #53 drill which is 0.465" so good enough. Only thing closer would be a 3/64 which is 0.0469" but there wasn't one. Prepared 4 new jets to just under 120 size. To recap the R-1 came with 146 (1.46mm) jets. Popular wisdom says to go at least 180 so I drilled them out but air fuel at WOT drops to mid 9s and maybe the gauge doesn't read any lower. I drilled some jets to 140 and now in the 11s. Bought a bag of tuning jets and drilled out to 1.81mm or just under 120. Weather willing I'll slip these in tomorrow and see if I can get WOT up into the high 12s.
  8. Yup. I believe that is the tank vent line to the charcoal canister up by the rad that stores the excess gas fumes. The object in the picture is a valve to prevent fuel expulsion in a turn over.
  9. This is why we have a classified section to keep the forum clear for information and discussions. ..... https://ratsun.net/classifieds/category/9-datsun-parts/
  10. Aren't there two? clips C shaped and curved like leaf springs. Don't they face each other like ( ) and the ends interlock. I always had trouble driving the clips together under tension. Once in the adjuster barely moved in it's slot.
  11. There are 40 possible distributor positions by the 40 teeth on the spindle. Each is 90. Lets say 10 teeth near each plug wire 5 on either side. More than 5 and you are withing the 10 on the next plug wire. It's very possible that it might fall between two plug wires or just barely close enough and you run out of adjustment swing. I'm almost positive the distributor does not adjust through a 900 range. Probably 1/3 that maybe less. Best to expect it to be out of adjustment range and know how to move it closer. This is the thing, there were several different slotted plates you could try the new one or put yours on it and the rotor position could be anywhere. Here are several pedestals. You can see how what fits the top one will be forced advanced if used with the bottom. I put an EI on my L18 and couldn't get it right. Used this timing adjustment ring from a Z24 and modified it by filing the bottom slot wider. Compare to the top slot.. Sometimes the plate can be used upside down to get withing adjustment range. What ever it takes....
  12. Doesn't look bad at all. I see trimming as proof that homework was not done to select the proper offset or back spacing of the rims. My motto is 'make the rims fit the car, not the car fit the rims'. Same with 'rolling the fenders'. That fold that gets flattened actually added structural stiffness to the fender.
  13. Did you change the fuel filter???
  14. I found my original journal diagram with a big X through it saying to reverse the wires. Your White with stripe wire is the charge lamp. The solid Yellow the sense wire.
  15. No. All pedestals will work but the rotor may be positioned in a different direction than what you had stock. It may not be below the #1 spark plug lead on the distributor cap above it or far enough off that you can't properly set the timing advance. This can be corrected by repositioning the oil pump / distributor drive spindle beneath it. This thing... With the distributor out, the top of the spindle looks like this... Disregard the writing. Looking at this you can judge which way to set the spindle to move the rotor. The spindle is turned by the crankshaft at 1/2 the speed. All you need do is have the distributor out, drop the oil pump, (4 small bolts) the spindle usually drops out with it but if not place it in the oil pump and turn it ahead or back and wiggle the spindle back up into position. Use one bolt finger tight and check the position of the rotor. All you need happen is to get the rotor under ANY of the four plug wires above it. Once you have this reposition the #1 plug wire to this position and arrange the other wires 3, 4, 2 in a counter clockwise rotation. Don't forget to install the rest of the oil pump bolts and tighten them. Time the engine. It doesn't matter where the rotor points... this new position becomes your #1plug wire.
  16. Try turning the adjustment screw inside under that rubber cap counter clockwise a turn or two. Keep track so you can return it to where it is now. See if that helps.
  17. Thanks Matt, your post puts it all into perspective. Working on a solution for eight years apparently amounts to talking about it, and for asking questions I get told I'm " negative, sniping, running everyone down or stupid"
  18. I had my KA alternator wired backwards (switched) for 3 years. It was only when I got a volt gauge that I saw it randomly charged. I compared the wiring harnesses and made a good guess but it was 50 / 50 and..... I was wrong. I'm saying if you get it wrong it won't hurt anything. With the ignition ON but not running, plug the T connection into the back of the alternator. If the charge light does not come on it's probably backwards. Just switch the wires. What was happening was the battery had to discharge to a lower point (maybe 10.5 volts) and the alternator would start charging the next time I started it. As it always started on the first turn I never noticed anything wrong for years. I never noticed the red light was not coming on, who would? It ran fine so I didn't question it.
  19. The tank is sealed at the cap but if over pressurized, the fumes are fed to the canister and stored in the activated charcoal in it. During running as the gas tank empties air from the air filter is allowed back down the same pipe to replace the gas used and prevent a tank implosion. If removed you may smell gas fumes. I would just leave it alone it has no effect on running.
  20. The T V V (thermal vacuum valve) simply prevents the vacuum signal from getting to the distributor when the engine is cold. It's merely to reduce pollotion when the engine is cold and the choke is on. It will work perfectly fine without the T V V connected. The charcoal canister is a storage device for gas fumes generated in the gas tank that can later be drawn into the engine and burned. It's all automatic and has no effect of running, but it needs a vacuum signal to tell it when to empty.
  21. Having seen the results of a similar venture in the past my comments are from an abundance of caution. I know you guys are desperate for gaskets and desperate people get tunnel vision and don't think to ask the right questions. In addition they 'see' anything opposed to their mad rush as negative, sniping, running everyone down or stupid. READ what I have posted. Nothing negative just something to think about. No where did I say I know anything about scanning, 3 D or mold making, I made this clear. Read what I said about simply trying to be a catalyst to get something rolling. As you say this has been on going for 8 years!!! Neither of us want to be posting about this in 2026. Read where I mentioned.... Did you even read this.... This is the second time this week someone hasn't read thoroughly what I posted.
  22. Vacuum advance is a ported vacuum source on the carburetor base. It goes to the T V V that only allows it to pass when the engine is warm (but you could skip this) it then goes down the front of the engine to the distributor and to the purge port on the canister. It's a closed system that fluctuates with the carburetor throttle position and engine speed. That's it.
  23. Canister purge and vacuum advance are connected. It goes through the TVV to only allow vacuum advance when the engine warms up but you could skip it.
  24. Two ignition points do several things. It burns the fuel / air in a shorter time allowing less ignition advance (usually 3 to 5 degrees vs. 10-12 degrees for a single plug) so less chance of pre ignition. There is also less time for oxides of nitrogen to form. Pro stock, funny cars all use them because they work. I see no reason why you can't run a Z series 8 plug distributor in a four plug L series. You would have 4 unused terminals on the distributor but so what?
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