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datzenmike

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datzenmike last won the day on December 22 2019

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About datzenmike

  • Rank
    KING RAT
  • Birthday 04/23/1998

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver Island
  • Cars
    '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510, new '76 B-210 '74 710 sedan
  • Interests
    Datsuns, disinterested in f/b, tweets, texting, i phones, TV, EFI and Nissan after '96
  • Occupation
    I get paid to walk around in rubber and carry a machete.

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  1. Unlikely you'll find one. A flair kit is $30 and you can always hope you need it again. Just pull the old one off and measure the length. Take it with your to check the threads and the flair matches a pre made brake line and get the same or next larger one. Make any size bends around a tapered baseball bat handle. Use a rubber mallet to 'hammer' into place and form around things.
  2. Maybe just the covers. What do the lenses say on them? Oh... Bosch Halogen and clear so probably driving lamps rather than fog.
  3. Do you have a round plastic 6 wire plug at the back of the carburetor or an O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold?
  4. He said the ball joints were replaced. Yes on the idler arm bushing wear. Another thing is steering box wear. There is an adjustment bolt with a lock nut on the box. Raise the wheels off the ground. Loosen the lock nut and turn the bolt in (IIRC) to remove play. Quickly turn the steering lock to lock with the engine off looking for any tightness. Have a care doing this as most wear or slack is in the middle. If you adjust it out it can be tighter a you turn off center. This must be avoided as it will just wear out the box faster. If you find any tight spots back the adjustment off. Don't forget to tighten the lock nut and check again. Worn or badly adjusted wheel bearings can also introduce some slop. Worn upper and lower control arm ball joints. An inch either way from center isn't too bad.
  5. This is positive camber. Yours are more negative off set like below and poke out too much Yours is just a poor choice in wheel width and off set. You want a rim that sets farther back into the car so the 'fender' can be lowered down over it or the tire go up inside the well on bumps.. Something with zero offset, or perhaps some positive off set. A 9" or 10" tire might not fit anyway. You could select more conservative tire width and a rim to match that has an off set that centers the wheel in the wheel well.... Or.... If keeping them and lowering, slice away the offending fender lip and cover this mutilation with wide flairs. There's no other option.
  6. Rubbing the fenders? wings?? that the correct word down there? Removing the positive camber would move the tops of the tires in towards the center away from the body. Lowering usually induces negative camber on struts and IRS. The stock suspension should not have positive camber, instead it should be fairly neutral. 14X 9 and 14 X 10s are not only too wide but probably the wrong rim off set making them stick out of the wheel wells.
  7. Do you have... cruise control
  8. Agreed. It's just a shock absorber most useful on a 4x4 that hits obstacles. It reduces sharp inputs to the steering wheel making it easier to hold onto.
  9. Bedda. These are the fusible links connected to the positive battery terminal. . Someone has replaced them and used crimp on terminals. Just look how crappy those connections will be. Check for 12v on the end of the Red wire and the White/Black stripe and the other one. If no power clean and re tighten those connections. Fixed, this should give you power to the two 10 amp fuses.
  10. There's more culture in a spoonful of yogurt than all of TVdom.
  11. Sorry I certainly do NOT use f/b. Some do but I don't. Get a picture hosting site account, (ANYONE BUT PHOTOBUCKET) there are free ones. Download you picture(s) there. When you want one, go there, copy the picture information, come here and past it into your post. So everyone can see it. Replace the fuses with 10 Amp. I'll have to wait for the pictures of the fusible links.....
  12. Cab/Chassis models (engine tag starts with an E) use an E 78 14 tire on a 5" wide rim or 5.5" aluminum mag. E78s are 7.65" wide and 26" tall. 195 /75R14 are 7.68" wide and 25.5" tall.... just over 2MPH at 50MPH 195/80R14 is 7.28" and 25.65" tall............... same 205/75R14 are 8" wide and 25.3" tall.......... almost 2.5 MPH fast at 50MPH
  13. Wish I hadn't. When I entered high school in the mid '60s there was a 20 something around town with a '55 409 that was a legendary street racer. The car was absolutely insane and every Monday at school there would be rumors of races he won out on the 4th concession road out of town that past Fri and Sat nights. The car was black like the one in American Graffiti and well known on sight. He would drive around town and if you caught his eye, pointed your finger at the car and made a circular motion he would oblige with a chirp of the tires. I saw him once just before graduating, working as a gaffer on our high school stage lighting climbing ropes and swinging around. He wore leather pants like Jim Morrison and was cool as shit. So when I saw that 409 I googled Ken Zayette and found his obit. I guess he worked at the nickle mine in Sudbury for 40 years and retired in 2010 and passed in 2014 at 69 making him about 5 years older than me. I guess you never really die for as long as you are remembered.
  14. Pump brakes to release any stored vacuum. Press down on the brake and hold. Start engine. What you should experience is the pedal will drop about an inch as manifold vacuum rises. This is normal operation. There is a one way valve in line. The intake side should allow you to suck air through it. The booster side should not. The booster is sealed and with the one way valve should be capable of storing vacuum when the engine is shut off. Vacuum hoses should be split or crack free and securely clamped to the intake and one way valve. Engine stutter or stall at idle when brakes applied would indicate the diaphragm or a seal is bad inside.
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