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datzenmike last won the day on May 2

datzenmike had the most liked content!

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About datzenmike

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  • Birthday 04/23/1998

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    Vancouver Island
  • Cars
    '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510, new '76 B-210 '74 710 sedan
  • Interests
    Datsuns, disinterested in f/b, tweets, texting, i phones, TV, EFI and Nissan after '96
  • Occupation
    I get paid to walk around in rubber and carry a machete.

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  1. Read my last post. Better to put a better breathing L20B head on a Z series. With flattops you get 9 to one compression. A Z series head has a 57cc combustion chamber compared to the L20B which is 45.2cc. An L20B with a Z head would be somewhere in the 7s
  2. 510 brake pads are wedge shaped. As they wear down the caliper turns till it's parallel to the rotor.
  3. This cam shows a lot of wear on the face. Bet the rocker under it is gouged also. Most likely from running today's oils that are deficient in the ZDDP levels that were used when this engine was new. Too late now, but try Shell RotellaT4. It's a diesel oil that retains the correct ZDDP levels. I run 20w15 but it does also come in 10w30. Shell Delo 400 is also good and any after market Racing oil. Any L20B cam will replace that L18 cam. They are virtually the same. I advise you to look up the ZDDP controversy on line. ZDDP is being reduced yearly as it harms today's sensors and catalytic converters and new cars all use roller type lifters and don't need the extra anti scuff protection zinc supplies. Oil companies maintain that today's oils are reverse compatible but I think bullshit. I'm not grinding my precious Datsun cam and valve train. Check it out and make a decision based on knowledge.
  4. First, probably a projection tip plug. Should only run NGK BR6ES I think. These old engines used a bronze alloy valve seat that needed leaded gas to lubricate it. Running non leaded gas wears them and the valve slowly sinks (up) into the head removing the adjustment room. This is NOT a permanent fix .... but you can take those adjustment nuts off the pivot and carefully belt sand or have them ground down thinner. You may have to grind the pivot post down also to lower it some, but this will allow you to set the proper clearance again. I've done this and it works, HOWEVER... the valves will continue to sink up into the head but probably get another 20K out of it. If and when you rebuild, specify the hardened steel seats they use today. Did you block the timing chain tensioner from falling out???
  5. When I had my 620 it was raised 16"!! illegal as fuck. There was a Toyota guy in town whining about being pulled over and ticketed and towed home every 2 weeks for his rig not having something, like fenders over the mudder tires or too loud. Later I saw why... He drove around like an idiot (with attitude) with beer cans rolling around in the back, with windows, license plate and mirrors totally covered in mud. The point is I drove around in town quietly, didn't switch lanes, never in a hurry and no more than the speed limit and the po po saw me all the time and never even looked at me.
  6. This will depend on the Pintara 1, 2, 3 gear and over drive ratios. Often two boxes are exactly the same but for the input and the counter driven gear. Here's a mid ratio and close ratio zx box gear sets. If you put the zx input set into the mid ratio you get a mongrel box as shown. /. Can you count the first gear ratio and the over drive in the Pinara? These X the 1.4 will give the first and overdrive. There was a '80-'82 zx with a 0.773 over drive.
  7. I guess so. The power valve just makes the mixture at high speeds and loads, richer. My Hitachi 340 in my L20B had the hollow base screw swapped with the solid rear one because someone must have rebuilt it and put it together wrong. I found this by accident and fixed it. I noticed a slight but definite improvement when floored.
  8. The Z is ok for what it was built for... good low speed torque and low emissions. With this is mind, and never intended to rev or make much power over 4K, (or highway speed) the ports are low on the head with a sharp bend at the valves to make it a semi hemi. Again it doesn't flow well above 4k because it doesn't have to. It's very efficient, very reliable, it just doesn't lend itself to performance improvements very well. So I wouldn't say it's a bad fit for a truck. It has gobs of displacement and stump pulling torque. Perfect for pulling a heavy truck.
  9. Ignition switch problems... start here. Pull coil wire off and hold or place near a ground and turn engine over with the starter. Got spark. If not start right there..... Crank with the starter for 5 seconds then quickly look down the carburetor. Is it dripping? Yes? carb is flooding so fix this.
  10. Facing straight ahead on the level... if you can see any camber or toe..... it's too much. These settings are very subtle. On a 14" rim a 1 degree positive camber is sticking out at the top just 0.122"
  11. One of the later Nissan FWD cars had a short length of pipe with a sensor that was spliced into the lower rad return line. It samples the coolant temperature coming out of the rad. This is the best place for this. All I did was slice the rad hose and insert in pipe with hose clamps. Ran the wires to a relay with power through a fuse from the positive battery post. This way the fans can come on after the car is shut off when it heat soaks. I don't think a cooking thermometer is going to read the actual coolant temperature only the air blowing through the rad, which is going to vary during the year.
  12. Take the headlight switch out and spray clean it. Contacts are covered with dirt and old grease. Parking lights are separate form headlights. Both temperature and gas gauges out is more likely the separate voltage regulator somewhere in the cluster. Take it out and look for a small set of points wrapped in a thin white wire. Fold a small length of emery cloth and place between the contacts and pull it out several times to polish and clean them.
  13. If selling parts please do so in the classified section, that's what it's for. Any questions contact the seller by private message or e-mail.
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