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datzenmike last won the day on January 14

datzenmike had the most liked content!

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About datzenmike

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  • Birthday 04/23/1998

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Vancouver Island
  • Cars
    '76 710. prevoius... '78 620, '71 521, '68 510, new '76 B-210 '74 710 sedan
  • Interests
    Datsuns, disinterested in f/b, tweets, texting, i phones, TV, EFI and Nissan after '96
  • Occupation
    I get paid to walk around in rubber and carry a machete.

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  1. datzenmike

    Sr20 swap alternator options

    Yup, just noticed it. 😄
  2. datzenmike

    Sr20 swap alternator options

    This is the problem with the 620. The lower rad hose wraps around the alternator and enters the timing cover just above it so you can't go too high. A z car water inlet is swept back slightly more and helps move the hose back and away but intimately the inlet fitting is still in the way. I used a 720 3 bolt block mount. It moves the alternator slightly higher than the L series ones. To mount it I had to put the belt on the pulley first then the two lower bolts into the block mount. Then the tensioner strap, tighten the belt, then the two bottom bolts. I had a 90 amp Chrysler K-car alternator. There's room on the distributor side for an air conditioner compressor so there's got to be room for an alternator. There's also several threaded holes on the side of the block for this or the earlier air pump. I broke the bolts off an old 521 I had back in the 70s and a friend moved the stock alternator to the distributor side. Seemed like there was lots of room and no rad hose in the way.
  3. It keeps road spray off the alternator and anything around the crank pulley. It only goes back as far as the cross member and not as far as the oil pan, although it could be trimmed. It prevents air getting under and up behind the rad. Trouble is it's in the way if working on anything and gets removed and not put back on. I had mine off so long I forgot about it and had to go search out back for it. I put it back on. A front spoiler would work even better.
  4. Make sure that air cannot get over the top of the rad and not through it. Nor under it. The 610 and the 710 and probably all Datsuns after the 510 have a small strip of rubber on the front of the hood that closes down on the rad support and seals this area. They also have a sheet metal 'belly pan' forming a rough triangle between the tension rods and the oil pan producing a low pressure area behind the rad. A
  5. datzenmike

    So, I messed up.....

    That's no big deal. No worries. JB is not a glue. When you coat those two surfaces and press together there won't be much holding it on. Not to mention it squeezing out to the inside and onto the threads. Here's what I would do. First remove the housing if you want a good finished product. If the housing breaks the problem is solved. 😄 De-grease thoroughly and rough up the surface all around below the break with sand paper. Get a good gasket sealer NOT RTV! from Permetex. Follow the directions which should include waiting 10 min for it to 'set up'. Coat the threads lightly and tighten the sender into the remaining threads. You don't need to seat the O ring, these are likely pipe threads and they seal when tightened. Now blob some JB around the remaining threads on the sender and down onto the crack surface and below. Cover that part completely if you like. I would come back to it in the morning and build another layer on top of this and let set. Permatex, 80016 This is a one way deal and you have nothing to loose. That sender is in there permanently and should never leak. Be sure to use anti seize on those housing and cover bolts after thoroughly cleaning them. The housing bolts are a specific length so don't use a longer one on the front than necessary or it will rub the timing chain. While driving your Datsun around and enjoying yourself, keep your eyes open for a replacement thermostat housing.
  6. datzenmike

    Other option for front steer steering rack?

    Will it have enough turn radius??? Wouldn't rear steer be very subtle and just slightly turn the wheels??
  7. datzenmike

    squeeling power steering pump

    Squealing sounds like the belt and/or pulley. Belts can become glazed or highly polished and slip. Contaminants like oil and road crap can do this also. Just replace the belt. The tensioner pulley also has a bearing that can go bad and squeal. Water splash (like severe off roading puddle jumping) can cause the belt to slip and you can loose the power assist for maybe a couple of seconds max. If more than that the belt is bad or likely not tensioned properly. The alternator charge light can also come on for half a block but this is more likely water on the brushes inside it that the belt slipping..
  8. datzenmike

    jəkZ (ジークス) 79 210

    Round eye grill; should swap onto it, but the 3 wire headlight plugs need the terminals pushed out and moved to new location for round bulbs. I've done this with a 720 harness in a 620 truck.
  9. datzenmike

    FS5W71F (Manual) 5 Speed making noise

    This thing makes lots of noise but you can't always see what's causing it...
  10. datzenmike

    Aftermarket Gauges Discussion

    I prefer the original gauges as the colored LED ones are not only gimmicy but out of place on anything older than the 90s. But this is just me. If you grew up with flash then it would seem the norm. This above looks like a great compromise. At first glance looks like a 620. It's different but not glaringly so. Well done.
  11. datzenmike

    D21 H20 transmission shopping

    I think if wired wrong it just does not work. Without power on the correct plug it can't turn on. The white (or maybe yellowish cream from age) wire turns off the exhaust side plugs under heavy load. Nissan says... ' to reduce engine noise under heavy load conditions' ... I think this may be the two flame fronts colliding and could be mistaken for spark knock or ping. If it's truly just noise it really doesn't matter much. Earlier engines didn't have this. Another interesting thing about the dual plugs and the shut off is the timing. Single plugs need a more advanced timing to get all the fuel burned in the short time available. Dual plugs (with 2 ignition sources) take less time so the timing advance is shortened. When switching to single operation the module automatically advances the timing to compensate. Don't ask me how???
  12. datzenmike

    KA transmission switches and speedo gears

    probably.... the above pinion and sleeve will give the correct speed in the S13/14 transmission. Find out what differential ratio is in your car and also the tire size you plan to use. From this the proper tooth combination can be worked out. A larger diameter tire or lowering the differential ratio (like from a 3.889 down to a 3.70) would need a smaller number of teeth on the plastic gear. My 710 has a 4.11 (up from the stock 3.70) now and 195/60R14 tires. Using street radar signs I found when reading 33-34 is was actually going 30 so about 10% out on a 20 tooth pinion. I finally managed to get a 22 tooth from Charlie (thanks again Charlie!) and the difference between 20 and 22 is.... 10%
  13. datzenmike

    Engine Porn (beyond ... saturation)

    Maybe it was the other side.
  14. datzenmike

    Transmission Cooler Lines

    I would run from the transmission into the rad cooler, out the other side and to your new transmission cooler and from it back to the automatic. This way the rad will help warm the oil faster when it's cold. Any hose that fits and is compatible with petroleum products (oil resistant) will do. It does not have to be high pressure as the return line just dumps back into the automatic's oil pan anyway. Heat is the worst enemy of the automatic transmission. Never tow with an automatic unless you have a lot more cooling than the stock rad. If you over heat your transmission or the fluid changes color... change the fluid. Change it every 30K. I cut a rad tank apart once to see what was inside. Big shock! there was about 8" of metal hose from the inlet fitting to the outlet fitting!!! They were simply joined together! Practically nothing. I expected a coil of copper tubing or something. The metal lines from the transmission to the rad would shed more heat.
  15. datzenmike

    Maybe not quite right?

    Take the valve cover off and turn the engine till both intake and exhaust valves are closed on #1. This confirms the compression stroke. Back the engine up 1/4 turn and insert your rope as wayno suggested. I tie a big knot on one end so there's no way to have it fall in. Turn the engine back towards TDC by hand with a 27mm wrench or socket till tight. The valves are no forced against their seats and you can compress the spring, remove the keepers and slip the seal off. Back the engine up enough to free the rope and put into cylinder #3. Turn engine ahead till it compresses the rope tightly and do both valve seals. Next is cylinder #4 and last is cylinder #2 Yes the two rocker shaft assembly will need to be removed to get at the springs. Loosen all the bolts, 5 per shaft, in several stages, not all at once. For heaven sake do not over tighten the bolts that hold the rocker shafts when putting them back together. Aluminum is soft and will strip. 11 - 18 ft lbs so try for 14 or 15. Snug then in stages working from the center out to each end to compress any valves that are open. Grease the seals before stretching them over the valve ends and push all the way down.

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