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RedBanner

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Posts posted by RedBanner


  1. Thanks Fisch!

     

    Momentum hasn't always been easy to maintain, but posting what I am doing on this site motivates me to keep on keeping on, even if there are long spells between meaningful progress.  I refuse to be one of the "got in over my head and now I'm gonna sell/scrap it" statistics.  

    your already so far past that man. Good work.

  2.  

    I'm running the mkclots/morrisun front brakes, they fit under 13" turbines with minor caliper shaping.

    another, more indepth swap could be zx struts with a wildwood ultralight 4 piston caliper for a 3/4 width rotor.20140502_205327_zpsciazpp08.jpg

    its a smaller caliper that works alittle different than the zx caliper, so you can move it in real close for clearance. 13x7et0 libre has plenty of room

     

    df, I had to use a 210 centerlink, pitman arm, and steering arm, (in an emergency) i  found that the centerlink was 14plus mm wider from inner tierod to inner tierod.

    i figured it was becase the lca pivot was moved outward slaightly. about 8-10mm per side. i think that is why people assume it would widen the width, because the track width is wider, but extended between the lca pivots and inner tie rods.

     

     

     

    Thanks!

     

    Do you use 13" wheels?

     

    Which model is your wilwood brake caliper? I made i quick search and i cantt find ...

     

     

    id don't have any more info than that sorry. I ordered the "ultralight 4 piston " calipers from wilwoods website. they have them for several thickness of rotors.

    those are 13s, and you can see I have lots of room, some wheels fit different. my steering knuckle and outer tie rod are closer than my caliper, the the wheel


  3. I'm running the mkclots/morrisun front brakes, they fit under 13" turbines with minor caliper shaping.

    another, more indepth swap could be zx struts with a wildwood ultralight 4 piston caliper for a 3/4 width rotor.20140502_205327_zpsciazpp08.jpg

    its a smaller caliper that works alittle different than the zx caliper, so you can move it in real close for clearance. 13x7et0 libre has plenty of room

     

    df, I had to use a 210 centerlink, pitman arm, and steering arm, (in an emergency) i  found that the centerlink was 14plus mm wider from inner tierod to inner tierod.

    i figured it was becase the lca pivot was moved outward slaightly. about 8-10mm per side. i think that is why people assume it would widen the width, because the track width is wider, but extended between the lca pivots and inner tie rods.


  4. can you share the megan kit your reffering too?  i have not seen the double adjustable ones. except there McKinney ones.

    the ones on ebay claim to have adjustable ride height, but in the fine print they say that it is single adjustable, the spring perch moves and thats what they call adjustable ride height. wich is misleading i think.

    as for the tube diameter, maybe mikes right, but i havnt had any luck using 2 inch stuff on 240z struts, or 260z struts, wich appeared to be 2.25 diameter.


  5. i dont know what the rear top hats look like on a 4 door sedan, the length issue would be a problem if it interfears with the wheel, as the z car ones are 3 inches longer(aproxamatley) and the diameter issuewill facter in there as well.

    you would want the same diameter front adjustment sleeves as the zx, or 510/610/710/210/b210/ excetra

    a 1/4 inch wider threaded sleeve could limit your width and offset. for sure if its the longer adjuster

    as in you will need to run -12 more offset then the guy with the zx adjustment sleeve, (not hard to find spacers) or a 1/2 narrower wheel if your keeping it in the fender.

    but I think the megan ones are just single adjustable, so no prelaod settings are available unless you have them fully up. bc offers double adjustable kits (1200 bucks) and troy ermish has some, wich are probably the same ones idk for sure. but they limit ride height adjustment to around 2 inches. if you are adding preload.

    your current struts, plus a 250bucks for threaded sleaves and a custom pring rate,  could be just as effective (and easier to use), and fit a wider wheel than the megan kit.


  6. I did order the weld on 280z megan coilovers so I will post pictures and let everyone know how it goes.

    that would work a lot better. (a gave the suggestion on your fb post.) assuming your kit is good for the zx and not just the z. as the strut tubes are different lengths and diameters.


  7. It might just be me, but I'm starting to see a trend here banner.

     

    Maybe a bit more positive with the comments? Or diplomatic? Or none.

    that was diplomatic. very informative, and also it made me laugh, ad boobs and it was a hat trick. perfect post.

    trashy, if you truly need an apology to continue your task, then I'm sorry I hurt your feelings.


  8. you might get alot more help with a different approach, the " i build racecars for a living, only the best, i know what im doing!" is not meshing with your "can i use this stuff, from a completely different car on my car?" questions.

    your struts have built in insert tubes welded to the spindle, no lower adjustment, no clamp on hub/spindle. there is no bolt on fan boy kit to help you "build" your car. you have to go out to your car, remove the wheel (with tools) and get in there and check it out. pretty simple compared to some of those other cars.

    as for the rb swap.... you couldn't get the bumper off, I have doubts bro, but cool story.


  9. most springs sit above the tire, you could probably bolt it alll to gether on the bench to make sure, but the spring diameter will probably not effect you at all if your running stock camber and caster. what size wheel and tire are you planning? even a 15x7 12 clear my stock perch and springs, welded to the stock zx height.


  10. i used either a b210 clutch and brake peddal or a 510 peddle in the stock peddle box, there is no spot for the clutch peddle return spring, but the rest of the provisions are there. i just made a small braket for the return spring and removed the clutch slave block off plate. left the gas peddal where it was.

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